Nice video, thanks for putting it together. I know you posted this over a year ago, but it sucks nobody commented or really gave you any support because this is a pretty legit video write-up on how to do this procedure. I've done it twice on my '14 1500 Silverado, I now have 151k miles and my transmission is still shifting like new. I'll say two things I disagree with on this video are: 1. you didn't show/mention replacing the rubber/metal gasket the filter slides into, it's tough to remove but should be changed. 2. you do not have to jack up the transmission and winch down the exhaust to get the pan out. It is tough, I grant you. But it can and should be done without stressing the trans and exhaust like that. If you pull the filter down when the pan is unbolted, and move the gasket aside just like in your video, you can rock the deep part of the pan towards the driver's side and push it up, and it will JUST clear that white plastic wire harness that hangs down. Then to reinstall you place the loose filter in the pan, lift and slide it over the exhaust, then push the filter in place and align the pan/gasket and tighten. I promise I've done it that way with my own two hands, twice. But otherwise good job, somebody deserves to give you some credit for putting this together, for DIY'ers who haven't yet done it themselves and want to give it a shot I'm sure it's extra appreciated.
Yep I still have the RC 3.5" spacers on the front. Bought em by calling Rough Country directly and asking to buy the 3.5" spacers from their 3.5" lift kit, and the guy said sure, $75 plus shipping. I got 2" blocks with U-bolts for the rear on amazon, made by Motofab, $54.99. Installed everything myself. I actually just installed Rough Country's $250 UCAs this week, replaced my tie rod ends, inner and outer, with MOOG Problem Solver, and got an alignment. I must say the new UCAs are at a much better angle than the stocks, and the ball joint is noticeably larger than stock too. The front end feels a lot more solid. New, larger ball joints are awesome. You should definitely do it this way if you are going to do the work yourself. If you are having a shop do it, they will probably want you to just buy a kit through them, and the RC 3.5" kit comes with all that and it costs like $499 or $599 I think.
Admittedly this picture doesn't quite do the Wildpeaks justice. In person, they look meatier than in this pic, but I will admit I don't love how tucked in the wheel well the stock rims are. I just hate bolt on spacers, and I am holding out to buy a nice set of negative offset aftermarket wheels instead.
Ahh ok lol, that's good. Sorry, I misunderstood your post. Some people do stuff like that though; that's what terrifies me about buying used vehicles. (All my vehicles I've ever owned have been used, so this is a familiar fear to me.)
Why would you put old oil back into anything? Heat breaks oils down (even synthetics), not to mention metal shavings and grime in old oils... Seriously, anytime you remove oil from a machine you should be filling with new... even in your lawn mower lol
I have a 3.5" lift but I did run these tires for a while on a 2" level, so you will probably clear but you should check online and get the measurements converted to inches, anything wider than 11" and taller than 33" will rub if I'm not mistaken unless you have spacers or negative offset wheels or a lift. I bought ProComp Pro Runner SS Monotube shocks and struts, they are exactly the same as Bilsteins and you can buy a set of 4 (2 pairs, fronts and rears) from 4wheelparts.com for I think $335. That's a deal. You can adjust the height on the ProComps too, but only between stock height and 2" height, you don't have the middle settings. (Who wants to take their strut apart four times anyway, to try all those settings?) I think they have the Bilstein 5100s on 4wheelparts.com also for like $380 so not much difference in price. Just get a monotube shock that's a larger diameter than stock and you will be fine. You can also mount the rears upside-down to reduce unsprung mass on the rear axle, some guys think that helps but idk how much it really does.
I have about 30k miles on a set of 275/70R18 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, which is a 10-ply AT tire. The tread is super aggressive and the ride is smooth as butter. No road noise, and I drive upwards of 1,000 miles a week. They are very heavy, I had to replace my upper control arms with new ball joints at 146,000 miles and I just went ahead and did the tie rods too even though they seemed ok. I got a full set of 4 Wildpeaks from the Chevy dealer, used their buy 3 get 1 free deal and got the set for $685 installed and out the door. Can't beat the price, looks, ride quality, and overall happiness factor. Good luck, give the Wildpeaks a try.
I love the old Ski Nautique, my uncle has an '87 very similar to it and I've been skiing behind that boat all my life! Wakeboarding is fun with two "fat sacks" in the back where the rear seat goes, monster wake! As for the tuner, I am also considering one but my warranty is up. I have read a lot of people's posts, saying that our trucks will log any changes made to the computer (such as tunes) even if you put it back to stock before you go in for warranty work, and they *will* decline to honor your warranty if engine troubles arise after being tuned. Careful if you go that route, if it were me and I still had a warranty I'd just go with the Range AFM, supposedly that doesn't leave any trace in the computer and it's also pretty cheap.
https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-tie-rod-sleeves-11000.html?rrec=true Yeah, the ball joints are definitely the reason they are getting replaced. I just have seen some websites selling thicker, "reinforced" tie rods; or selling these threaded sleeves that go over the skinny part of the factory inner tie rod and take the place of the jam nut. The idea being, adding a steel collar over the thinnest part of the tie rod would prevent it from bending if you hit a curb or take it off road, etc. It sounds like a money grab to me, I've never heard of someone bending a tie rod unless they crashed and then that's just one of many damaged components.
I tried to search the whole website several times and either can't figure out the search feature, or (would be shocking if true) nobody has discussed this before? I am driving a 2014 Silverado 1500 2WD with 3.5" RC spacers up front and 2" blocks in rear, with 33" Wildpeak AT3Ws on the factory 18" LT wheels. The tires weigh about 60lbs each... and after 146,000 miles (not all lifted- lift went on at 100k) and the steep RC angles, the tie rods need replaced. I ordered MOOG parts even though I've heard their quality slipped, inner and outer tie rods for both driver & passenger sides. I've seen advertised those tie rod sleeves, to reinforce the 1/2" thick tie rods to keep them from bending or breaking with heavier tires or more spirited driving. My question is if they are worth putting on; now's the time since I'm replacing the tie rods anyway. But if they are like throttle body spacers and are completely pointless, I don't wanna waste $40. Anybody know if this is an actual benefit, or just a money grab? Thanks.
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Does it rub when you turn? What tire size are you running? I want to push my wheels out a bit too, I pretty much did the same thing and am going for the same look; I only did a 3" suspension lift with 33" tires on factory 18" wheels. Only thing I want to change is push the wheels out a bit, but I've always hated bolt-on spacers. Guess if I want that look I can different wheels or use spacers... Thanks for posting this though. Looks good!
Sent @pgamboa a PM because I am still not entirely clear on seat removal process. I took off the four bolts pictured at the top of this post and was not able to get the seat to budge. Didn't want to break anything.
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