Yep, I also am dumbfounded that testing didn't show them the defroster vent is grossly inadequate for clearing the lower corners of the windshield. I mean, guys who do this for a living designed this stuff and guys who are just average Joe truck owners can pick out faults withing minutes of operating.
It's very annoying huh ha. I don't think I have ever owned a vehicle that I actively disliked the HVAC system. When I was younger I had trucks with crappy heat because of clogged heater cores but not something with a flawed system. Once the cab gets close to desired temp I find I am constantly adjusting the temp settings to remain comfortable. So much for automatic. I rode 2 hours to pick up a boat a few weeks ago in my Dad's 16 Ram with auto HVAC. I set the temp when we left and I think I adjusted it maybe once on the trip because the sun came out and made it a little to warm from hitting your body directly. Otherwise it was nice and comfy for the whole ride (which can also be achieved with simple old manual controls).
Mine drives me insane. It's always either blowing freezing cold (ac or heat) or much too hot to be desirable. Set at desired temp on non auto next think you know your feet are freezing for no reason, reach down and feel vent sure enough its blowing exterior temperature are in. I wish that when it was not in " AUTO " mode that the temperature dial let you decide on the temperature coming from the vents VS it still regulating vent temperature to where it thinks it needs to be. Get interior to temp as quickly as possible then blow desired temperature out of vents. Say the interior is 1-2 degrees above/below target temperature, there is no need for the vents to blow fully hot or fully cold to change the interior by 1-2 degrees. Minimal adjustments in vent temp makes for a comfy experience. Not to mention, the heat in this truck is awful. It was 33 outside when I left today. My commute is about 12 miles with about 4 miles on surface streets and the rest 70MPH highway. I can leave my house and crank the fan up with the temp settings on high when the engine starts to get some heat. The cabin can't even be described as hot if I leave it cranked for my entire 12 mile commute. Now just imagine when its less than 15 degrees outside. It's basically useless and I am glad I have heated seats. Another gripe is you can't turn on recirculate when the head is directed at the floor to help it warm up quicker. My recirculate function barely works anyways. I drove my 88 Dodge D250 yesterday evening in similar temp just to see if I was insane. The vents were blowing so hot within 5 minutes at low vehicle speeds I had to turn it down. Only had the fan speed set at 1/4 the way up.
My 16 has 62,000 on it. Purchased at 21,000. I do love the way the truck drives and tows. It looks good and is very quiet on the inside. Informant is good and the radio sounds nice (especially like carplay). I just serviced the transfer case and the fluid looked like old motor oil. Next up is transmission/axles/coolant. The 5.3 gets great MPG and I love the low end torque of the DI high compression engines. Problems so far: -Engine tick (fixed by sealing up the boot for the steering column) -Bad battery at around 25,000 -Display screen going blank (Fixed with 2 software updates) -Various annoying interior rattles all fixed by me -Motor mounts for rough idle -Going on the 3rd soft tailgate lowering bushing (nothing ever heavy on the tailgate) -Heater is awful. Can drive 15 miles with it blasting on high/full fan and still not "Hot". -Shakes from 70-80 mph that I can't get to go away (was smooth as glass when I purchased it) -Clunks while down shifting (normal symptoms) -Rotors warped by 40,000 -Noisy steering angle sensor -Literally cannot get wiper blades to work on it. They shake skip etc. I have stripped the windshield bare and waxed it, rain ex, silicon lube etc. Adjusted blade angle tried all different brands. I think they got the spring pressure too heavy because it seems to mash down the middle of both of the blades while the ends of the blades shake and skip along. I did squeeze the ends of the arms (fitting where the blade clicks in) tighter which took up lots of play and that did help but I am still extremely unimpressed with the wiper performance. I can't remember any car I have ever owned with fresh blades that I said hmm these suck.
Good to hear! Unless I randomly tow a Car short distance these days my max tow is 3500-4000. Sometimes that might include 1000+ in the bed but nowhere near rated towing capacity. Stock rotors are junk at 60,000 so for 200 bucks in parts ever 60,000 heavy towing that's a pretty minimal cost I think.
Alright, got these bad boys installed last night. The hardware clips seemed to be nice quality. Cleaned and lubricated it all. Cleaned the faces of the wheel bearings. Re used thread locker on the caliper stand bolts but not on the caliper bolts as there was non present from factory. The rotors seem to be very good quality from look and feel. They seated right up against the wheel bearings and centered nicely and the retainer screw tightened up very well. Pads looked pretty normal on the friction side but have nice stainless backing plates on the caliper contact sides. Completed the break in process and everything was nice and smooth. Brakes gained noticeable grip from beginning to end of break in process. I drove it work and all seems great without noise or vibration. I haven't climbed on them hard yet so I can't comment on performance upgrade yet. My original pads were even thicker than I thought they were. I think I could have easily got those pads to 80-85K judging by the thickness of the new when compared to the originals. I probably should have just surfaced the original rotors but every time I have tried that in my previous experience they have returned to pulsating pretty quickly. I hate throwing away good parts but oh well. Will keep you posted on performance etc.
Thanks for the info Fellas. Will be installing tonight. I was hoping for some serious brake life out of the "improved" rotors from Chevy but no such luck. The OE rotors on my Ram were great until about 65,000. I drove the absolute crap out of that truck towing or not. I replaced with HQ lifetime rotors from O'reilly and they were warped again within 10K Miles. Just kept replacing them under warranty until I traded it. The brakes on this truck live a much much easier life compared to the Dodge.
Just curious if anyone is running the Power Stop Z36 kit. I had the pads on my Ram and loved them. The rotors are awful on this truck (have been warped since about 45,000 miles). The pads could probably go another 15,000 or so but since I am taking it apart for 50 bucks I don't want to take it apart again. These rotors seem to be pretty high quality in terms of metal/coating/machining. I hope they can at least make it 50,000 before warping. OEM used to be far superior in terms of run out/warping compared to parts store stuff these days but apparently the new "dura life" rotor isn't too hot. I am pretty easy on brakes considering pad life would be around 75,000 on a truck that tows frequently. I always try to pop the truck in neutral at lights so I am not putting pressure on the rotors when they are hot sitting still. The Z36 pads on my Ram were much more aggressive cold or hot and didn't seem to lose much power on long aggressive stops when towing. I will report back after the install and after a few months with them on. Likely won't be doing to much distance towing until spring though.
Yes it is, you will prematurely wear items out (Dif and T case maybe) but be design it wouldn't hurt a thing to drive around in 4 Auto on dry pavement. My truck had the T case control module replaced because of the high pitched screeching noise. This noise only happened when it was directing power to the front wheels or shifting in and out of any drive mode. If you still have noise under deceleration this is probably not the issue. (From GMCs Website) AUTOMATIC 4 HIIf road conditions frequently alternate between high- and low-traction areas, consider using the “AUTO” setting found on select GMC electronic transfer cases. This setting allows your GMC to automatically distribute torque to the front axle by anticipating the need for additional traction. Shifting into “auto” engages the front axle, but the transfer case sends power primarily to the rear wheels in normal conditions and the clutches modulate torque forward to provide stability and enhance traction to the vehicle. Although not always optimal for efficiency and wear of your vehicle 4wd driveline, AUTOMATIC 4 HI can be used on any road condition without risk of damaging your vehicle.
Auto won't hurt anything, it serves a similar function as a full time AWD vehicle. I really only use mine to get into fast moving traffic in the rain and for normal snowy driving. Also helpful on boat ramps because it doesn't hop around and bind up when you turn. I was always a man truck kind of guy 4x4 lock or nothing but owning this I have found auto very helpful.
Mine has made a slight growling noise under accelerating since I purchased it with 20,000 miles. I drove it about 200 miles once towing in Auto on accident and with the AC on I didn't notice the noise on that trip. My buddy bought a new 2016 new off the lot and his has the same noise since new.
Ha, I don't know if I would call it awesome but it sure is quiet. I am too busy to mess with it much right now but I will probably try and either install a new boot or make a quality piece with one of my Bridgeport capable buddies in the spring. If this one comes off I will just cut another 10 cent tube plug and install.
I just started to get a small clunk in the rear end at low speed moderate braking (like in a parking lot). I am going to check all of the rear suspension bolt tightness. Seems like torque specs were ignored on these trucks. My 2010 Ram front suspension was still as tight as a drum at 140,000. I am hoping I can get over 100 on this Chevy before any front end parts are needed (seems like the front springs are very hard so I presume that will be rougher on the suspension parts). The rear suspension on the Ram however only made it to 100 or so. The upper RH front link bushing is very close to the muffler and I spent so much time at high temps towing it actually melted that and caused other bushings to wear out. I haven't had any large ticket item expenses as of 61,000 miles on this 16 Silverado. I am hoping this is the truck that I tell people I just do brakes/tires/fluid changes.
Morning update: Put about 70 miles on the truck last night/this morning. Highway and city crappy streets. Still completely quiet. I can hear the slightest of engine noise at 1000-1200 rpms high load I.E. right before it would downshift to a lower gear but its likely only audible by the best of ears so it doesn't bother me at all. I presume with a nicely built piece and some deadening material on the part it would be basically silent.
Keep in mind this is extremely crappy and only for testing theory. I would like to build some sort of split collar from plastic or aluminum that clamps onto the steering shaft or the boot and stays stationary or spins with the shaft. Also, something more solid could House some pre cut sound deadening material.
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