RigPig

I lowered mine after a 2.5 inch lift and 33’s. 1/4 turn each.

It could be that the All Terrain wheels are different than some of the other models. I measured my studs and measured the pockets, then did a little math. I would have gone with more narrow spacers if the studs were shorter - I didn’t need to go that far out to clear the UCA’s , but now I’m glad I did. Thanks, I’m happy with how it turned out.

You can use 1.25” spacers without trimming the studs if you keep the OEM wheels. The pockets in the OEM wheels are deep enough. From my measurements, a 1.25” spacer is the limit without having to trim. Not wanting to trim the studs is the reason I went with 1.25” - didn’t want to trim either. Your 1.5” spacers will work fine if you keep your stock wheels and they have the pockets. Not sure if all the OEM GM wheels have them.

Yes, they are the OEM wheels with 295/55R20 Toyo Open Country M/T’s. I also have 1-1/4” Bora spacers installed.

I found a NIB BAK Bakflip F1 on Craigslist for 400 dollars. Installation took approx. 45 minutes working alone. I've seen a few negative reviews on these, but I figured for that price, I couldn't go wrong. This is my first tonneau cover, so I really can't make a comparison. It was super easy to install, fits well and I like that it's practically invisible from the side.

Agreed. That's a good looking truck.

My thoughts exactly. The only issue is that the dealer only has one (1) bolt in stock. Probably why half the bolts weren't installed.

I was under my 2018 All Terrain this week and found that half the bolts to the tubular steps on the passenger side were missing. Each bracket calls for two bolts and they had only installed one per bracket, which caused some serious flexing issues. Wonder if the trucks are transported to the dealer without the bars installed and the dealer installs them once the truck is delivered? Truck has approx. 150 miles on the odometer.

Thanks, man. Next on the agenda is clear film on the rocker panels and a tonneau cover. After that, I'm calling it a day..............for now

Side shot

I don't, but I'll post some tomorrow.

A few more if interested. One other thing - If you install the RC lift with the stamped UCA's, your truck will ride stiffer up front due to the preload the spacer puts on the spring. It doesn't really bother me, but it might bother some.

Hi, guys. New member here, but just wanted to give some info on leveling and tire size that will rub, or not rub if you have the stamped steel control arms. Sorry if this has been covered in the thread previously, but up until a few weeks ago, I couldn't find a definitive answer on the net concerning this. It seemed that some people said their setup would rub and others said it wouldn't, but it was unclear if they meant it wouldn't rub after they modified the inner fender, etc. So, I'm here to let you know definitively my story, my setup and confirm that if the same parts that I used are purchased, there will be no rubbing on a 1500 Sierra 4x4 with stamped steel control arms. So, here goes my story: About a month ago, I bought a new 2018 All Terrain, with the intention of leveling and adding the largest M/T tire that would fit without issues. I poured a lot of time into researching the subject on forum after forum, prior to my purchase and decided that the Rough Country 2.5 in lift (with the rear blocks) would work for me. This kit appealed to me because of the ease of installation (I thought) and the fact that I'd be doing it alone in my garage. Next I decided that the 285/55r20 maximum tire size (according to RC) was not enough larger than the OEM size for my taste, so I began to research that topic. This is where the water got muddy with what will work and what won't work without the tire rubbing the stamped UCA's. I ended up ordering a set of 295/55r20 Toyo Open Country M/T's for a smoking price of 1360 bucks, a set of 1/4 inch spacers and the lift on the same day. The tires arrived first and my initial thought was how wide they looked. I put them aside and waited for my lift. The lift came in a few days later and the first thing I noted was that there was no top spacer blocks, just a couple of donut rings. I quickly found out that RC fails to tell you, if you have the stamped control arms, you must remove the struts, compress the strut spring, disassemble the strut and install the donut spacer under the spring, then reassemble. So, it was off to Auto Zone for their loaner spring compressor. I'll just say that it worked, but the stress that the strut spring put that tool under was unbelievable and I wouldn't do that job at home again. The threaded rods looked like bananas once the spring was compressed enough to reassemble with the spacer. The rear blocks went in pretty easily except that the head of the spring bolt had some difficulty going into the RC rear blocks. Not sure if it was the paint on the blocks, but I eventually had to lower the truck's weight onto the blocks so that the head of the bolt would pop into the block. Next I installed the 1/4" spacers on all four corners and checked clearance. I found the stock tires almost touching the UCA's at full lock after the lift and spacers were installed. So I did some measuring and figured 1-1/4" spacers would do the job and the excess length on the factory studs sticking out past the spacer would fit inside the OEM wheel pockets. No need to shave the studs. I decided after more research that Bora had the best reviews and it's only money, so I dumped another 250 bucks into the project. What else can you do at this point? While I was waiting for my spacers to be built and shipped, I had my tires installed. Not by Walmart I might add, because they won't install tires more than 2% larger than OEM specs for your vehicle. What a bunch of pricks. Last Saturday afternoon, my spacers arrived and I went to work right away, installing the spacers. They fit perfectly and are both hubcebtric and wheelcentric. The result was that the tires are nowhere close to touching the UCA's - at least and inch away at full lock, but only about 1/16" from touching the felt liner at the rear of the tire on the right side while turning right and the left side when turning left. I ended up drilling a 3/16 hole in the bottom lip of each liner and using zip ties to secure them back to the body mount. Now there is enough room to clear easily, no rubbing, no cutting, no stud shaving or NorCal mod needed and it's totally undetectable. So to recap, if you have stamped steel control arms, you can run without a doubt, a RC 2.5" level/lift (plan on removing and disassembling the struts), 295/55r20 Toyo Open Country M/T's on OEM 20" wheels with no rubbing, but you have to install spacers (no less than 1-1/4" unless you want to cut the factory studs) and tie back the rear inner fender felt. Sorry for such a long story, but this whole process has taken a month to finish up and there's a lot to tell. I'm picking my truck up today from the alignment shop, who said that the front end was completely out of whack after the level kit, so an alignment is definitely needed ASAP after you level. A few pics of the final result taken after the spacers were installed. Sorry for the crappy pictures, but it was dark outside and just took these to send to my son. I can take a few more in daylight hours if anyone is interested in how the end result looks.