Travis Crawford

Just completed a center console swap and the mounting bolts won't tighten. I'm reusing the same bolts that were holding my jumpseat in. It tightens and then almost feels like it jumps teeth and is loose again and begins to retigthen... But even when it feels like it's tightening it's still loose. Haven't seen this issue mentioned previously.

I couldn't get the 4 main mounting bolts to tighten all the way. Anyone else have this issue? They'd tighten and then be loose again, like stripping out. All 4 of them.

My brakes were squeaking... Found this and replaced brakes and rotors. Brakes are starting to squeak again. What am I missing?

Bought this truck last year, noticed differences in shifting compared to previous silverados I have owned, some subtle, some not so subtle. Accelerate to 35mph, let off the gas coming up to a stop sign, the truck's remains in gear and sounds like an engine brake as approaching the stop sign. I previously recall my trucks RPMs dropping to 800-1000 when I'd let off the gas and coast, like going into neutral. Sometimes when setting cruise to 60mph, my truck will remain at 2K+ RPM for extended period of time before finally shifting to the 1.5K range. When towing these issues are amplified. Interstate driving at 69mph. My truck runs 2.2K rpms. If I decrease my setpoint a few mph the truck will shift into a higher gear and RPMs drop to 1.7K. Going up a hill, it jumps to 3.3K-4.5K depending on how long the hill is. Sometimes it hangs at that high rpm after i've gone over the hill and back down it for a period of time. I often try to tap the break, reduce my cruise set points, trying to get it to shift into the next gear. I've taken the truck to 2 difference shops, and they've tried diagnosing and found nothing. Do I just pull with it and if it blows it blows or what? lol Has anyone else experienced this and found a solution to make it better, or is this just the nature of this POS 8 speed? Thanks for your help.

Calculated a 3mph difference to be 1.5" smaller. So I set my tire size to 31.5 and my speedometer is now correct. But still ~80% of the time if I set the cruise to 62mph. It stays in 5th gear at ~2k rpms. If I adjust my cruise down 2mph to 60mph it will then shift into overdrive and be fine. Or if I hit a downhill slope it will also shift. Considering replacing the speed sensor on the transfer case. Just trying to avoid wasting more money.

It only let's me select full sizes.

Shortly after getting the truck I put a lift and 33s on it. When comparing the speedometer to Google maps my mph was spot on but my shift points going into overdrive was terrible. Just got a superchips flashcal updated the tire size to 33s, and the speedo is now 3mph higher than Google maps. Shifting is better. How do I correct both?

Looking for a cheap option for adjusting tire size. Primarily to correct my shift points. Speedometer seems to be close with 33s.

Yikes. Really?? GM designed a headlight assembly that you can't change bad bulbs?

None of the videos I'm finding have my style of headlights. I have a Valeo module that is right where the turn signals are in all of the videos that I've watched. Anyone have a video that shows how to replace these turn signals?

I bought this guy below off ebay, thinking it would keep my foglights on with my parking lights. I was wrong. It keeps fogs and low beams on with the hi beams. What would happen if I mod this using the other kit to keep fogs on with running lights? Knowing that it already jumps the fogs/lows to the hi beams, would it cause any issues/shorts?

Yes! I recently installed a 3.5" lift and 33s but I had the truck a very short time before that. Thanks for your feedback. Makes me think a lewtune will fix my issue. I was concerned it could be a trans issue.

Best example, I accelerate to 60mph, set cruise, and the truck will remain in 5th gear u till I reduce my cruise a couple miles per hour. Then it will finally shift to od. What actions would everyone recommend? No trans dipstick.

Had to remove the Cooling fins on the diff and notch the crossmember. Doh!

Purchased a diff drop spacer kit for 2-4in lift. Received 1in spacers and hardware. Passenger side went pretty smooth. Drivers side there isn't enough room for the one inch spacer. Diff is hitting the crossmember. Ugh... Am I missing something?

Did you have a 1" rake before the level?

Before installation of my 3.5" lift. My front end was 2.5-3" lower than the rear. So I purchase a 3.5" lift, and 1" rear blocks to be nearly level. After the 3.5" lift install, my front end is now nearly 2" taller than the rear (without the 1" spacers installed). Do I need to purchase 2" rear blocks vs the 1" that I have? or will the front end settle and everything will be fine?

Just trying to understand, what components does a proper lift kits use that makes it better? Appropriately sized UCAs and diff drops based on lift height should keep my angles good/decent is my understanding. My 2018 sits 2.5-3" higher in the rear currently. That's the reason for the 1" rear block only.

2.0" above strut blocks 1.5" below strut blocks 2-4" lift control arms 2-4" lift diff drop 1" rear blocks Is this a decent recipe for good suspension angles?

Unfortunately I found a thread that indicated they use 5/8s inch spacers and still hit the caliper

Thank you!

I have the oem 5 spoke 2018 22inch wheels. They hit my caliper on my 2020. What size wheel spacers are needed to make it work? Thank you!

My 22s on my 2020 LTZ are about due for some new tires. It has a ready lift 2" level and +2" rear blocks. My preference would be 35x12.50s, 33x12.50 are the runner ups. Stock 22x9 +28 offset wheels. What are the trimming differences between the two sizes? I've read it's not the height that's the issue but the width? Does that mean trimming would be similar? Will I need wheel spacers?

Trying to determine if my range disabler is functioning properly... I personally can't tell a difference when it is hooked up. Lights appear to be functioning properly... Most of the time it disables the auto-stop... But still feels laggy, and sounds like it's shutting off when i coast. I'm considering purchasing a OBD2 splitter to be able to hook up my ELM and monitor the active cylinders if that's possible? Is there a PID for # of cylinders that are active?

I purchased a used range and it flashes the software version and appears to be working... But I'm pretty positive it's not disabling the dfm, and intermittently it will still autostop. I originally thought it was due to the older firmware version, so I sent it in and had range update it. Same results. How can I confirm its not working? I never really used it because I couldn't tell the difference. I just had to have 4 lifters and pushrods replaced at 4500 miles