thsoccer3

Can anyone verify the 2019 Bose doors are all 6.5” round? Thinking of replacing the front with 6.5” Focal AS165 component and rear with 6.5” Focal AC165 coaxial.

No big deal, but your installer installed the bolts upside down according to manufacturer's recommendation (instructions). I cannot tell in the photo, as your pre-load spacer looks identical to mine, but I wonder if the spacer was also installed upside down (with the chamfer facing up) which resulted in the extra, unwanted lift. My RC 1318 kit leveled my truck perfectly, within 1/16". No biggie, angles still look good, and you got alignment. Congratulations on your extra lift haha.

I am contemplating adding BORA hub centric wheel spacers for a slightly more aggressive look only. I only want to space a little, as I do not want rock chips on the rocker panel and lower doors. I also do not want to cut or modify factory lugs. Because of this, I am interested in a hub-centric spacer that only fits over the factory lug without providing new lugs. I know my needed wheel spacer specifications are as follows: 6 x 139.7 pattern 78.1mm hub 106mm bore This raises a few questions in which I seek your expert opinion. 1. Does only adding spacers without any additional changes require a front-end alignment? 2. Do you know the maximum distance spacer I can safely add utilizing the factory lugs with the OEM wheel? 3. I have no rubbing; they are for looks only. On factory lugs, I am assuming it would be close to a 0.500" maximum. Would the minimal spacer even be noticeable (worth it)?

2" Rough Country 1318 level 295/60R20 (34" x 11.7") Nitto Ridge Grapplers View of CV angle and two half-decent views of upper ball joint (tires are straight in top photo, and wheel is at full lock in the second photo).

2" Rough Country 1318 level 295/60R20 (34" x 11.7") Nitto Ridge Grapplers The truck is perfectly level.

2" Rough Country 1318 level 295/60R20 (34" x 11.7") Nitto Ridge Grapplers AMP Powersteps BAKFlip MX4 bed cover I have no rubbing, but it is very close on the upper control arm. The ride has not changed, and the truck is perfectly level. I am very impressed with the upper ball joint and CV angles. More pics to follow.

Rough Country 1318 2” front level with 295/60R20 (34s)

So you essentially have an AT4 height suspension, without level. Any rubbing with the 285/65/20?

Anyone running a 1/4” spacer have a part number for the AT4? I am not very experienced in wheel spacers, but want to have the right ones handy in case the 295/60/20 rub on factory wheels or possibly install anyway just to improve stance.

Just browsing Motofab's site, and it appears they are now making a 1.5" lower mount level kit for the AT4 / Trail boss. Part number CH-15LM-TB. Anyone aware of this, or possibly install it yet? It appears much easier than Rough Country's 1318 which requires a spring compressor.

Everyone stating the 1.5" Motofab on AT4, is this the part number CH-15LM-TB lower mount spacer? It sure looks exactly like the CH-15LM they offer for a regular 4wd 2019, and makes me wonder what qualifies it for the AT4 when others aren't recommending the same level kit for the two vehicles. I believe I am still leaning towards the Rough Country 1318.

Here is my research: 1). Dealer installed Pro Comp 63235 for $875. Dealer says they will stand by factory warranty if they do the work, but Pro Comp says this kit is not rated for the AT4. 2). Local accessory shop installed Rough Country Sku: 1318 for $350. If the dealer were to void warranty because of this mod, RC's website fine print says the owner is responsible for having a dealership fix the truck, and then contacting Rough Country to prove the malfunction was caused by the lift kit. This raises caution and sounds like the beginning of a "blame-game" or "run-around" to me. My end goal is to level the front and go with 295/65/20 (35.1") or 295/60/20 (33.9") Nitto Ridge Grapplers, but my concerns are warranty and sacrificing ride quality. Any thoughts?

I installed Motofab's 2" level myself on my 2017. I am very mechanically inclined and had no issues during the install. Loud popping noises started while turning after about 1,000 miles. I also had both lower control arms come loose (bolts not even hand tight) twice. The control arm bolts were not touched during the install. The dealership and two local accessory shops chased the popping noise for 30,000+ miles until I traded the truck. They continued to tell me everything was correct, and they could not locate the source of the noise. I am paying the dealership if I level my AT4, and it will be under factory warranty this time. With that being said, I have personally put eyes on three AT4s currently on the lot with dealer installed level kits. I guess this is the option for me, but my main question was about the kit they are using not being rated for the AT4 by the manufacturer. I think you have cleared it up for me.

My dealership has a couple of AT4s on the lot that are leveled. I called and asked about a dealer installed front level and voiding my warranty. The dealer wants $875 to install the level / alignment, and says it will remain under full factory warranty. The part number they game me is Pro Comp 63235. Pro Comp's website says this part is not for the AT4. Any thoughts? I have not raised this to my dealership yet, as I am working for a couple more weeks before I will be home to install anyway.

I purchased fuel this morning at a Chevron station in Houston, TX. Immediately upon restart after fueling I had an engine light on the dash. Before driving home tomorrow (700+ miles), I had Autozone run the code. It is P050D. 29,546 miles on a 2017

A/T tire size suggestions? I have a 2" front level on a 2wd 2017 1500 SLT. I do 98% highway travel with an occasional gravel or dirt road for work. I am keeping the OEM wheels and highly considering the 275/60/20 Continental TerrainContact A/T.

I also traded a 2015 Ram 2500 6.7 with 6" Fabtech lift and 37" Mickey Thompson Deegan 38s for a 2017 SLT -- talk about a nice change! Anyway, your setup has me CURIOUS! I really like the 285/65/20. I installed the 2" Motofab, and am now ready to purchase all terrain tires. I have a 2wd SLT. Do you rub? Asking because I have the same OEM wheels and intend to keep them. How did your mileage react to the larger diameter and heavier tires? What made you decide on the KO2? I see that it is the only A/T available in 285/65/20 on tirerack.com. Did you re-calibrate your speedometer, and, if not, how much are you off? I really have my eyes on the Continental TerrainContact A/T in a 275/60/20, as I believe it is a mild A/T with minimal size upgrade, so would have least effect on mileage and speedometer; however, your setup has me intrigued.

Or possibly I should have the alignment done and ask them to check both sway bar end link angles while it is on the lift? Maybe drive it for a week to ensure the noise is cured before installing new tires.

Thank you for your opinion! I believe you are on track. I had this hunch as well, and 2 days before my above post, I replaced the driver side link. I did not pay attention to the angle before the install, but it seems as if both links are in a forward angled position. During install, I do not remember having a problem getting either link in or out, and this time I had to fight to get the bolt in and out. I did not loosen the passenger link, as my noise seems to be coming from the driver side, but it appears to be in the same forward-angled position. The reason I posted a few days ago is since swapping the driver's side link is I still hear the same noise; however, it is less frequent. I was hoping to have this resolved before installing the new tires and alignment - preventing the need for an additional alignment if having to work on the truck afterwards. In conclusion, I have installed the level, and swapped the driver's side link only, which decreased the frequency, but did not solve my issue. Do you suggest new tires with alignment, and then drive immediately home and swap both links? Or should I swap the passenger link as well and get an alignment before installing the new tires?

I still have not diagnosed my "knock" noise since installing 2" front level. I chose the "donut" style spacer that mounts to the shock upper. My noise is a single knock when traveling slow that sounds like something is shifting on the driver side when going from forward to reverse. I am beginning to think I possibly did not grind the factory bolts flush with the top of the new spacer and there may be a small gap that is allowing a forward / backward shift. My next plan is to completely take apart the driver side and start over. Any opinions?

2017 Sierra 1500 2wd SLT Crew Cab

I installed my Motofab 2" front level myself last weekend. It is the upper strut "doughnut" style spacer. I had an alignment done by the local tire shop the next day. Initially, everything rode well and nothing was making noise. Now, 6 days after install, I hear a knocking style noise when I turn the steering wheel at slow speeds. I can only make the noise happen while traveling very slow in parking lots and turning the wheel almost to full lock. It is usually 2-3 knocks. It happens when turning the wheel and then happens again while straightening out - almost as if something is shifting, and then shifting back. I re-checked tightness of all components that were loosened for the install (tie-rod, sway bar, upper and lower strut mount bolts). Because this only happens at extreme turns during slow speeds, I am wondering if it is the tie-rod connections. Possibly they are over-torqued? Does anyone have a recommended torque value for the tie-rods and any other suggestions on what may be the culprit?

Thank you.

I have read conflicting information on this site and have also received conflicting information from different tire shops around town. Can anyone chime in with experience? I have a 2017 GMC 1500 SLT 2wd with a 2" front level (Motofab upper strut "donut") Can I fit a 33" x 12.5" on the OEM 20" wheels, or should I go with the 275/60/R20? I have also researched a 295/55/R20. I am hoping for a 33" tire with maximum width and avoiding any rubbing issues.