TVS 2650 > whipple. The TVS is more efficient and will make less heat. The Edelbrock’s kit will also come with a bigger heat exchanger. Can even turn it into a dual pass if you can find some local shop to do it.
Cam: email GPI and tell them your setup and they will spec you a cam that’ll fit your need. It’s an extra $25 to whatever cam kit you’ll get. I suggest staying with a low lift cam. You won’t be missing much power but your valvetrain will last a lot longer. Get the whole dual spring, CHE trunnion, Johnson lifters (NOT LS7 lifters!), 3/8 pushrods and etc. Do them right the first time and don’t worry about it again.
engine: Katech thermostat, NGK 6510 gapped them to 0.025”. OEM wires and coils are plenty but if you wanna get new wires, granatelli have some bad ass 0 ohms wires. Make sure they have heat sleeve on them or you can get some from Amazon. Cheap Chinese one will do.
exhaust: 1 7/8 of any brand you want. Don’t go with any smaller primaries. 3.5-4” for the rest of the exhaust. Vibrant GESI have high flow cats if whatever Longtube company doesn’t have any high flow cat Y/X pipe available. Straight thru mufflers no baffles styles. The more free flowing exhaust, the more easy power you’ll make.
Fuel: I suggest upgrading the in-tank pump to a TI automotive 535 (not 525 aka “hellcat” pump). It’s almost a direct replacement to the factory hanger/bucket. The OEM LT4 injectors and HPFP will do for 550-600hp with full E85. No need for oversize LT4 injectors or big bore HPFP.
Trans: Do the trans thermostat mod or get a lower temp Tstat. Adding a TruCool 40k wouldn’t hurt either.
Other supporting mod: Get yourself some traction bars. Either VAS or Caltrac. With more TQ, you don’t you want any axle wrap. Instead, use that force to give you traction. If you have an aluminum driveshaft , upgrading it to something stronger. PerformanceDriveline have a great piece and great customer service.