Canadian GM Guy

Where do you live? Up here in BC Canada I ordered them through Lordco. Lordco has exclusive rights on AcDelco and can order OEM parts from gm through Delco. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

Thanks for the input everyone. Here are the benefits of each as I see them... OEM: FNC coating (anti corrosive as hell but that's about it) AcDelco Severe Duty: Maybe not be as anti corrosive but should handle heat more efficiently and warp less because of the metallurgy Does anyone have any other suggestions I should be looking at? Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

I'm very torn on the one hand you have the OE ones that are FNC and "durable" and on the other you have the severe duty rotors that are supposed to be better for just that.... severe use. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

Can't, they're below GM specified minimum thickness. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

Hi guys, feel free to move this thread if it's in the wrong topic. I need rotors for my 2017 Silverado, my current rotors have 107,000km on them and are starting to pulsate. As the title states, should I go with the OEM ones with their FNC (feretic nitrocarburizing) process which I must admit are incredibly durable to have lasted me over 100,000km. Or the specialty units which supposedly are made by raybestos and have a higher carbon content in the metal to absorb and dissipate heat but no FNC corrosion resistance. I now live in a mountainous area that's not by the ocean and has pretty minimal rain fall, however in the winter time calcium chloride is used prior to snowfalls. Winter is fairly short lived and snow is minimal now where I live unless I drive the mountain pass. I drive it like I stole it and use my brakes hard. Advice??? Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

I looked into that, not for me, I still want the light sensor to function properly. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

That's the goal! And tell me about it, we have that problem here too, Asian vehicles are the worst culprits because the gauges stay lit and the DRL's light the road so you don't even see them from behind on a dark road. Even worse is the people that think they need their brights on in the city. I plan on getting some LED reversing flood lamps in my rear bumper, they'll double nicely as a deterrent for anyone who's behind me with their brights on [emoji6] Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

I have tinted windows and the daylight sensor isn't sensitive/or too sensitive so my auto headlights come on when the suns still up and I'm wearing sunglasses. All of a sudden my gauges aren't readable and my nav screen goes into night mode. I'd like to be able to just flick out of auto when needed until it's actually dark out. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

Dude you're a life saver! Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

Chris, as my truck is a Canadian spec I cant turn my headlights off at night. I read that you guys can fix that but I don't see that option listed in your original post or on your website. Is that something that can be added to the package you're offering? Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

Holy! I can't believe they actually had the potential of exploding. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

No I have not had the work done yet. Do you have pictures of your rear window? I'd love to see the carnage lol Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

Just an FYI for everyone to get their trucks to the dealer to get this done, I don't know about my friends south of the border but it's fully winter here and I miss my rear defrost. Also note that the recall # and repair may differ for anyone in the States as this applies Canadian trucks only. Mods, feel free to Sticky this if you feel it warrants that. GM Program #: N192270330 Date Issued: Nov 08, 2019 Program Title: Rear Window Defroster Thermal Events Program Description: Certain 2014-2019 model year Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra vehicles equipped with a power sliding rear window (RPO A48) had safety recall #N192220470 performed. This field action restores the rear window defrost function. Repair Description: Dealers will replace the buss bar covers and the contact cover, and for certain vehicles, will reprogram the HVAC calibration to disable the rear defroster from automatically turning on at keyed start. Please note that the rear defroster will automatically turn on during remote start or by pushing the manual button and is not affected by this calibration. If the rear window or sliding glass assembly appears damaged due to an occurrence of high electrical resistance on the rear defroster circuit, they will also be replaced. Dealers will also install the rear defroster fuse that was previously removed in field action # N192220470. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk

Where do you order an FSM from? GM? Or another 3rd party company?

Thanks and yeah you're right they do suck. I plan on getting some better gear to test with down the road, thanks for the suggestion. I have a Haynes manual but I don't think it has a lot as far as wiring diagrams go, I'll have to check in the AM.

So I finally caved and took my truck to the dealer, $150 later and the problem is fixed. I'm posting this so you can hopefully save yourself $150 if you experience the same problem I did. Below is what the technician who worked on my truck have to say on the repair order. ****Short to ground at wireless charge module. 1.60 Scanned for codes, no codes. Performed preliminary checks. Tested for switched power, power and ground at relay under hood, has no switch power from switch. Removed switch and tested, switch tests good. Check for power to switch, no power. Traced open to fuse on drivers IP. Replaced fuse and tested several times with no faults. Check for other circuits on F2RL fuse for rear window and found wireless charge module is on the circuit. Check circuit at flex point of harness at console cover lid and found wires broken and shorting to ground. Repaired wires in center console lid for wireless charging. Test wireless charging, working and rear window is moving.**** Essentially the wireless charging pad in the centre console armrest and the sliding rear window are on the same circuit. Over many repeated openings and closings of the lid, one of the wires in the wiring loom that runs into the armrest just wore out and voila. the loom has a Sharp 90 degree Bend in it, and it has to flex in order to open and close according to the technician. Once I got my truck home, I decided to hell with the wireless charging pad, I don't use it as my phone too big to even fit in it and I don't want the wires to wear out again and cause the same problem. so I took the liberty of disconnecting the wireless charging pad and relocating the wiring loom to the back of the console behind a little cubby hole for the rear seat passengers. I just wrapped it with some electrical tape and zip tied it to one of the other wiring looms. Here's some pictures for reference in case you run into the same problem. The centre console lid is essentially a sandwich of two pieces. The bottom piece is plastic and the top piece is leather, they're held together with metal wedge style clips. Take a small plastic pry tool and wiggle it in and give it a good pull and it'll come right apart.

I hooked my test light to the fuse socket, it has power. I checked both relays (there's one for opening and one for closing) and they both have power. I checked the switch and it has power and when I toggle the switch power is sent through one of the wires so I'd imagine it works. But when I check the the connector to the motor I got nothing, so I can deduce the motors fine as are the relays and the switch. There's an open circuit somewhere I believe between the switch and the relays because I should hear the relays click when I push the switch and I don't. Does anyone have access to wiring diagrams for the rear window motor system and all components involved?

So I pulled the panel down and I can't see anything pinched, when I turn the vehicle lights on the backlight on the switch turns on as well so It must have power. I'm stumped.

Going to run out and try that this AM. Where do I pry from?

So I'm not sure when it failed but today I wanted to open the sliding rear window, I pushed the button to open the window and nothing... No click from the relay no movement no nothin. I checked the fuse and it's fine. So now I'm worried I have my first electrical gremlin. Does anyone know what could be the problem? When this occured tonight outdoor temp was 7°C I don't know what that is in Fahrenheit but well above freezing. I checked the cable and the rest of the mechanism and it all looks intact.