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Canadian GM Guy

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About Canadian GM Guy

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  1. That's the goal! And tell me about it, we have that problem here too, Asian vehicles are the worst culprits because the gauges stay lit and the DRL's light the road so you don't even see them from behind on a dark road. Even worse is the people that think they need their brights on in the city. I plan on getting some LED reversing flood lamps in my rear bumper, they'll double nicely as a deterrent for anyone who's behind me with their brights on [emoji6] Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk
  2. I have tinted windows and the daylight sensor isn't sensitive/or too sensitive so my auto headlights come on when the suns still up and I'm wearing sunglasses. All of a sudden my gauges aren't readable and my nav screen goes into night mode. I'd like to be able to just flick out of auto when needed until it's actually dark out. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk
  3. Chris, as my truck is a Canadian spec I cant turn my headlights off at night. I read that you guys can fix that but I don't see that option listed in your original post or on your website. Is that something that can be added to the package you're offering? Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk
  4. Thanks for the link, that really helped. I've decided to go with 5000k, I'll post back here when I install them. Hopefully they're noticeably brighter and a hair more blue without looking aftermarket. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk
  5. Holy! I can't believe they actually had the potential of exploding. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk
  6. No I have not had the work done yet. Do you have pictures of your rear window? I'd love to see the carnage lol Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk
  7. Just an FYI for everyone to get their trucks to the dealer to get this done, I don't know about my friends south of the border but it's fully winter here and I miss my rear defrost. Also note that the recall # and repair may differ for anyone in the States as this applies Canadian trucks only. Mods, feel free to Sticky this if you feel it warrants that. GM Program #: N192270330 Date Issued: Nov 08, 2019 Program Title: Rear Window Defroster Thermal Events Program Description: Certain 2014-2019 model year Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra vehicles equipped with a power sliding rear window (RPO A48) had safety recall #N192220470 performed. This field action restores the rear window defrost function. Repair Description: Dealers will replace the buss bar covers and the contact cover, and for certain vehicles, will reprogram the HVAC calibration to disable the rear defroster from automatically turning on at keyed start. Please note that the rear defroster will automatically turn on during remote start or by pushing the manual button and is not affected by this calibration. If the rear window or sliding glass assembly appears damaged due to an occurrence of high electrical resistance on the rear defroster circuit, they will also be replaced. Dealers will also install the rear defroster fuse that was previously removed in field action # N192220470. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk
  8. Mine's a 1500 so it has the stock HID's. Also Hylux makes a direct plug and play replacement for the D5S bulb. I've decided to go with Hylux because the Morimoto's cause the auto lights function to not work. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk
  9. Hey guys, so I have a 2017 with the stock HID's. Looking to switch to the brighter Hylux bulb but I'm unsure which Kelvin rating to go with. I've been told 4300k is close to stock if not stock in terms of colour temperature compared to the stock HID's. I also know they will produce more visible light and be easier on my eyes, especially during heavy snowfall compared to the 5000k option. But how much more "blue" is 5000k? I noticed my fog lights (stock LED's) are pretty blue from the factory compared to the stock HID headlights. I also noticed that the stock LED's on the LTZ and High Country trucks are more blue than the stock HID's in the lower trims. Would 5000k be similar to the colour of the stock LED's on the higher trim trucks? I'm comfortable going to something a hair more blue but I want them to look stock, if 5000k would match the colour of the stock LED headlights or fog lights then that's what I'll go with. I'll wait to hear back from everyone, thanks! Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk
  10. Hey so I had a question about the Kelvin rating. I know 4300k is close to stock if not stock for our trucks and will be the most visible light and easier on my eyes, especially during heavy snowfall. But how much more "blue" is 5000k? I noticed my fog lights (stock LED's) are pretty blue from the factory compared to the stock HID headlights. I also noticed that the stock LED's on the LTZ and High Country trucks are more blue than the stock HID's in the lower trims. Would 5000k be similar to the colour of the stock LED's on the higher trim trucks? Basically, I'm trying to decide between 4300k and 5000k [emoji16] Let me know your thoughts. Sent from my Samsung using Tapatalk
  11. Where do you order an FSM from? GM? Or another 3rd party company?
  12. Thanks and yeah you're right they do suck. I plan on getting some better gear to test with down the road, thanks for the suggestion. I have a Haynes manual but I don't think it has a lot as far as wiring diagrams go, I'll have to check in the AM.
  13. So I finally caved and took my truck to the dealer, $150 later and the problem is fixed. I'm posting this so you can hopefully save yourself $150 if you experience the same problem I did. Below is what the technician who worked on my truck have to say on the repair order. ****Short to ground at wireless charge module. 1.60 Scanned for codes, no codes. Performed preliminary checks. Tested for switched power, power and ground at relay under hood, has no switch power from switch. Removed switch and tested, switch tests good. Check for power to switch, no power. Traced open to fuse on drivers IP. Replaced fuse and tested several times with no faults. Check for other circuits on F2RL fuse for rear window and found wireless charge module is on the circuit. Check circuit at flex point of harness at console cover lid and found wires broken and shorting to ground. Repaired wires in center console lid for wireless charging. Test wireless charging, working and rear window is moving.**** Essentially the wireless charging pad in the centre console armrest and the sliding rear window are on the same circuit. Over many repeated openings and closings of the lid, one of the wires in the wiring loom that runs into the armrest just wore out and voila. the loom has a Sharp 90 degree Bend in it, and it has to flex in order to open and close according to the technician. Once I got my truck home, I decided to hell with the wireless charging pad, I don't use it as my phone too big to even fit in it and I don't want the wires to wear out again and cause the same problem. so I took the liberty of disconnecting the wireless charging pad and relocating the wiring loom to the back of the console behind a little cubby hole for the rear seat passengers. I just wrapped it with some electrical tape and zip tied it to one of the other wiring looms. Here's some pictures for reference in case you run into the same problem. The centre console lid is essentially a sandwich of two pieces. The bottom piece is plastic and the top piece is leather, they're held together with metal wedge style clips. Take a small plastic pry tool and wiggle it in and give it a good pull and it'll come right apart.
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