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Canadian GM Guy

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About Canadian GM Guy

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  1. Where do you order an FSM from? GM? Or another 3rd party company?
  2. Thanks and yeah you're right they do suck. I plan on getting some better gear to test with down the road, thanks for the suggestion. I have a Haynes manual but I don't think it has a lot as far as wiring diagrams go, I'll have to check in the AM.
  3. So I finally caved and took my truck to the dealer, $150 later and the problem is fixed. I'm posting this so you can hopefully save yourself $150 if you experience the same problem I did. Below is what the technician who worked on my truck have to say on the repair order. ****Short to ground at wireless charge module. 1.60 Scanned for codes, no codes. Performed preliminary checks. Tested for switched power, power and ground at relay under hood, has no switch power from switch. Removed switch and tested, switch tests good. Check for power to switch, no power. Traced open to fuse on drivers IP. Replaced fuse and tested several times with no faults. Check for other circuits on F2RL fuse for rear window and found wireless charge module is on the circuit. Check circuit at flex point of harness at console cover lid and found wires broken and shorting to ground. Repaired wires in center console lid for wireless charging. Test wireless charging, working and rear window is moving.**** Essentially the wireless charging pad in the centre console armrest and the sliding rear window are on the same circuit. Over many repeated openings and closings of the lid, one of the wires in the wiring loom that runs into the armrest just wore out and voila. the loom has a Sharp 90 degree Bend in it, and it has to flex in order to open and close according to the technician. Once I got my truck home, I decided to hell with the wireless charging pad, I don't use it as my phone too big to even fit in it and I don't want the wires to wear out again and cause the same problem. so I took the liberty of disconnecting the wireless charging pad and relocating the wiring loom to the back of the console behind a little cubby hole for the rear seat passengers. I just wrapped it with some electrical tape and zip tied it to one of the other wiring looms. Here's some pictures for reference in case you run into the same problem. The centre console lid is essentially a sandwich of two pieces. The bottom piece is plastic and the top piece is leather, they're held together with metal wedge style clips. Take a small plastic pry tool and wiggle it in and give it a good pull and it'll come right apart.
  4. I hooked my test light to the fuse socket, it has power. I checked both relays (there's one for opening and one for closing) and they both have power. I checked the switch and it has power and when I toggle the switch power is sent through one of the wires so I'd imagine it works. But when I check the the connector to the motor I got nothing, so I can deduce the motors fine as are the relays and the switch. There's an open circuit somewhere I believe between the switch and the relays because I should hear the relays click when I push the switch and I don't. Does anyone have access to wiring diagrams for the rear window motor system and all components involved?
  5. So I pulled the panel down and I can't see anything pinched, when I turn the vehicle lights on the backlight on the switch turns on as well so It must have power. I'm stumped.
  6. Going to run out and try that this AM. Where do I pry from?
  7. So I'm not sure when it failed but today I wanted to open the sliding rear window, I pushed the button to open the window and nothing... No click from the relay no movement no nothin. I checked the fuse and it's fine. So now I'm worried I have my first electrical gremlin. Does anyone know what could be the problem? When this occured tonight outdoor temp was 7°C I don't know what that is in Fahrenheit but well above freezing. I checked the cable and the rest of the mechanism and it all looks intact.
  8. Interesting, I have the stamped steel ones. I hate the ride quality in my truck, mind you I also have the Ranchos as well, I'll be looking at Bilstein's next year.
  9. Okay no worries, thanks for the clarification. Just seemed strange that I saw so many different Kelvin ratings.
  10. Damn, I wonder if the aluminum control arms help with ride quality due to less unsprung weight. I guess the only downside would be less durability if something were to hit the lower control arms.
  11. Wait... These trucks came with aluminum lower control arms??? I just checked and mine are steel. What option box did you have to tick to get aluminum control arms?
  12. I went to a local upfitter/electrical guy and he found the fuse for the door locks which is on P/S of the dashboard by the A Pillar. He wired a relayed interrupt circuit with a switch under my dash so I can turn them off whenever I want. Now when I go through drivethru's in sketchy neighborhoods, I can put the truck in park without the doors unlocking. Find a command start installer you trust and for a $100 or so he'll be able to rig you up, very easy to install actually... FYI the 2019 models have the option to turn that shit off in the radio screen so that service manager is feeding you lies... I agree it's super annoying to hear the locks clicking everytime you put the truck in park. I know a few guys who've done what I have to their trucks they drive on construction sites with lots of idle time and driving around site, no need to have the locks actuating 100s of times a day.
  13. Interesting, I followed your link and it seems different to the ones I found. They all have a slightly different Kelvin rating. The inconsistency between the three links has me concerned, I tried to find a Hylux website but the only site I found only had ballasts. Are you sure these aren't some obscure cheap Chinese manufacture? Anyone have them that can confirm where they're made? I should add that I wouldn't go with the style that requires cutting the dust caps. Your link: https://hidkitpros.com/shop/hylux-d5s-oe-headlight-xenon-hid-bulbs/ Link 1 I found: https://esskcustoms.com/products/d5s-hylux-hid?variant=20327372292184&currency=CAD&utm_campaign=gs-2019-07-22 Link 2 I found: https://www.prolightz.com/hylux-d5s-hid-bulbs.html
  14. Hylux it is then! [emoji6][emoji106] I'll keep everyone posted, probably won't get them for a couple months. Canadian exchange rate sucks. Thanks for your help bud!
  15. I just googled them. From what I read they're just plug and play correct? No splicing or cutting? If so that's what I'm going with... Also by auto lights, do you mean how they come on automatic at night?
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