RichardG

Yeah; I've used Dorman for other things and had great success just never mirrors. I've seen Kool View too and they seem decent. Just remember to fully test all functions (folding, power mirror, dimming, turn, heat, anything else it has) and drive with the mirror. That was my biggest issue the shake - since my truck didn't have options, I cut the unit's wiring and just kept it despite the shake. Good luck with finding a mirror. Ebay is always a good source to get OEM parts if your local junkyards are picked over.

Not sure on Dorman brand. but on my 05 silverado wt, it needed replacement and I bought a cheap no name mirrors (I mean 60-70/both outside mirrors cheap; I mean come on it's a beater for me). Anyway, they had heated mirror where mine did not and I wanted that. They function great but shake when driving (like it's not as strong plastic holding the mirror in; the mirror part itself shakes and not the outside plastic). I'd say buy the doorman, install it - go for a fast highway speed drive (that's where mine shake) and see. If no shake and they function properly, keep em.

I know on k2 it's like that; My wife's Malibu appears to be the same but it's been a while since I've been in it or looked at it - ie the inside rear view mirror controls the darkening of the drivers outside mirror. I have a 05 silverado WT. I put a auto darkening mirror in from a Yukon? I am not sure because it was a fleebay part. When I looked up some info on the pinout of that model of mirror, the function was described as you think - the inside mirror (has the sensors) controls the outside so the both darken at the same time.

Terrible to see that; I had a flash since my 18 is blue too. It doesn't just clip back up somehow or hardware is broken? Yeah I put a cap on mine too. I imagine you could buy a trailer hitch cover and trim to fit or a guy on eBay sells them too. I'm not a fan of gas capless system, but it is what it is. Sub'd to see outcome.

@truckguy82 They would use the same R-134a - which is cheap and widely available. Forget I mentioned the other stuff; you're truck doesn't use it and they are not going to put it in. If you don't have the tools to work on the HVAC, rather than learning and investing in the tools and knowledge, I would say it would be easier to take it to a dealer or a mechanic. I have the tools etc which is why I bought 35 lbs years ago for personal use and for close friends. I also have the reclaimer machine. Anyway, as others mentioned, before you decide to do anything, you should measure what's coming out. "Cold" might be a relative term. The system should function at specific temperatures/have a specific reduction in temperature in the cabin given several variables. You can call around to get prices. Sometimes what people do is have a mechanic suck out the old stuff. Then you can put the specific amount back in. Again, you'll have to consider what you want to invest - time to learn diagnosis (which obviously can repay you back over time), or money now and just have a mechanic do it for you.

1) I didn't realize I had the new stuff until this thread and I popped my hood. 2) Wow that is very expensive! I hope my system lasts quite a long time. My 2005 impala (bought in January 2008) never needed a charge/never had a leak even until I got rid of it in early 2020 because someone hit and run in my parking lot (enough damage to the front end to not justify saving a 15 yo 250k mile car - sold and replaced with my current 2005 silverado) and it worked very well even in Texas heat and humidity. @LDM Yep no doubt.

FYI, my 2018 has R-1234yf. I'm not sure the year it switched.; be sure to check your manual/engine bay for listing. On a side note, I've noticed my 2018 (with the newer refrigerant) doesn't seem to cool nearly as fast as my R-134a vehicles. Can't remember the comparison to R12 but that's beside the point. My 2005 silverado (with the r-134a) cools down faster than my 2018 with r-1234yf. I'm not here to bash new technology or say I don't care about having a clean environment I'm just pointing out my anecdotal evidence. Someone with more and current HVAC experience can chime in on that. As mentioned, you'd need a set of gauges. I wouldn't generally recommend just adding it until the whole system is evacuated though. If you're unfamiliar with these kinds of procedures, paying a dealer/mechanic is probably worth the money to avoid the headache. Edit: I see LDM mentioned you still have R-134a for 2014s. Well that's a plus I'd say. You can buy 35 lbs of that for cheap if you do it yourself. If I were you, I'd just take it in to a mechanic and avoid messing with it.

I have a 05 4.8 WT rwd sc/sb and a 18 5.3 LT rwd dc/sb. Hard to compare 100% but what I enjoy specifically on my 05 over my 18 is simplicity and availability to easily add factory options. I've added steering wheel controls - a wheel out of a escalade, an auto dimming rear mirror with temp and compass IDK a Yukon? - factory style and functioning fog lights (factory button and works as designed from factory), I Frankenstein'd 2 jump steats (bottom from 07-13 and top from 14-18) to replace the non folding jump seat, wired in some outside heated mirror with turn signal, I had an 05 impala which someone hit and run in my parking lot which totaled it - that car had an aftermarket touch screen radio which fit perfectly into the 05 Silverado since it had all the wiring done already and now has a backup camera too, probably a few other thing's I'm forgetting as well. The 2005 started out as a barebones WT with only a 4.8 and a manual sliding rear window.

Still have my 2018's original battery. I have a battery tester and tested it a few months ago and checked out. It lived in Texas heat for a few years now it's in TN. My wife's Malibu is a 2016 (new body) premier with the 2.0. I think it's just standard flooded batteries which have been in there but we have gone through 3 batteries - all replaced by the dealer under warranty. The latest has been in about 1 year. We will see on that; I'll probably put a agm in both when the time comes. Yes it seems gone are the days when replacing a battery was very simple and easy. As for height, I'm 6' 0" and yeah it's problematic but this isn't the only vehicle. To get to the back of some of these vehicles I have been known to basically be in the engine bay on all fours. My wife wonders why I love my 2005 Silverado; don't get me wrong my 2018 is nice but in other ways. On my 2005 I can reach into the bed super easily, reach around the engine bay fairly easily as well (save fore the sensors on the back of the engine), manual windows/locks/seats, manual rear sliding window (it's fine because its a single cab), non carpet floor (WT), easy to upgrade with factory options, etc. I don't even lock the thing.

DOHC as far as I know for both 6 & 8 cylinders. While I doubt sourcing parts for a tundra would be difficult in the future, I think their yearly sales of Tundra are around 110,000 vs Ford & GM around 800,000 to 900,000 or so each respectfully. I prefer something more widely available so that parts and junkyard will be far widely available. Just more food for thought.

Tundras are made in San Antonio, TX; I never looked into whether or not they split production like the do the Silverados ie doubles in Indiana and the full back doors in Mexico. I used to work for a supplier on site; not sure for sourcing all of the parts. I agree with above comments in general. I like simpler push rod engines. Parts have always been easy to source for my GM products throughout the years. And also agreed on a heavier duty truck if you want to tow often; I too would rather not have to worry about anything. I met someone while I was tent camping; he had the same 2018 Silverado 5.3 as me - not max tow; he was pulling something that looks comparable to your trailer. No issues, but he said he did have some speed loss issues which is to be expected especially in the hills of TN and KY. Good luck and as is with any manufacturer, none are immune to problems.

I just completed this. As @Chev85 did, I ordered the new style plastic cover, the new long fill tube, and a new valve cover gasket - for just in case. In my case - 2018 Silverado 5.3 21,000 miles - the short tube simply rotated off. It does have that locking piece, but through defect/possible (but doubtful) slight redesign, and most likely pure luck, mine came off with no issues, nothing broke, and the short tube seems to still be useable. I rotated the new updated long tube on and installed the new plastic cover. I obviously didn't use the new gasket, but it's cheap enough so I'll probably buy one for the passenger side and just throw it in the glovebox for future use. Thank you all for the information and part numbers making this a very easy upgrade & install.

Also interested. Sub'd

Just to add my 2c in case another person comes looking for the answer - I can say OEM is better from manufacturing aspect; I have seen the plants, and know the procedures - published and not. To be honest, after seeing so much from mechanics, engineering, and manufacturing aspects I am surprised vehicles last as long as they do.

Checked mine - 18 LT DC and it's not recalled. I saw someone mention the revised version and I'll have a look; I'd guess mine is revised. Only 17k miles but no problems since new May 2018.