WS6FirebirdTA00

Fixed it. Mirror was bad. Installed new part number 84499222. Looks like the factory unit had poorly soldered connections. Hopeful I may be able to fix and have a backup. Super easy to remove also. Tilted the mirror all the way down and popped it straight up. Found this link on YouTube that made it easy. Took me just a couple minutes.

Hello, looking for some advice on troubleshooting my driver auto dimming mirror that has failed and is no longer dimming it’s a 2018 Sierra. I’ve been trying to search for this and the only results I really come across are ones where the dimming is stuck on. I was hoping to find some information on the wiring to do some troubleshooting and see if it was a signal issue or a hardware issue. The rearview mirror works fine. I figured one place to check would be the wires where the mirror folds. I regularly fold mine up and wonder if something just failed in there. I wasn’t sure if anyone had any other tips before I started digging into this. A little hesitant to tear into the mirror if I don’t have to, I don’t want to break any of the plastic. It’s been several months since I drove in the dark so no telling when this happened. I’m a little concerned when I removed the center roof console to run a dash cam, maybe something happened in that area. I made sure everything was plugged in and was not pinched. I appreciate any tips or advice you all may have. I was hoping to find a common issue with recommendations, but struggled to even find one.

Does anyone know the centering pin diameter for the leaf springs? It is tapered so I am unsure from my block measurement if it is 9/16 or 5/8. Thanks.

Thanks I will check those out. When I initially looked at those before removing the blocks some folks said they had fitment issues (which is why I was looking at blocks).

Hi All, I have been searching trying to find some results, but most of what I find are lift spacers for the rear/leaf springs. I removed my rear blocks initially to level the truck. Then I put 5100’s on it and am on the 2nd notch now. It sits higher in the back about 1/2” but the side steps give it the illusion the rear is lower (they actually slope down now). I wanted to install some rear blocks that were about 1/2”. I found some on Summit, but I need to measure the factory blocks to see if they will fit. I wanted to see if you all had any recommendations. Maybe I am using the wrong key words, but I am doing a great job finding 2”+ blocks. I don’t want to go higher in the front and I don’t want to go back to stock height in the rear. Being shorter, it is nice to be able to reach over the tailgate lol

I don’t lock it any more than stock, actually bumped the MPH in a few spots. I just don’t leave it unlocked in low gears, I find it annoying.

Here you go.

Let me hop on the PC and post some screen shots. What I mean is if you change the downshift table up 5 MPH, you will also want to change the upshift table. If at 25% throttle you command a downshift below 20 MPH in a given gear (and say it was 15 - that will make it downshift “easier”) if your upshift was 21 MPH that would make a fast downshift and shift right back up. I would bump the upshift up about the same amount, at least a few MPH. I have mine set up to stay in a low gear for MPH. Mid range has a reasonable downshift without having to stab the throttle to the floor. I also adjusted downshift times, but beware that if you jump on it in the middle of a downshift it will always lag there so just keep that in mind. I also setup tow/haul to be more of a sport mode. I don’t tow. The reality is there isn’t a lot different between the two. I do leave more negative off throttle/low throttle driver demand in tow mode in case I do tow. I keep my converter locked too, I don’t see what people dislike about it. I actually prefer that over having it flash up on me. I also did adjust my TCC apply pressure, so maybe that is why I don’t notice issues too. If I don’t post back up by the end of the day, PM me to remind me. This PC does an update about every time I turn it on and I lose the network and it takes forever to restart. Windows 7 was great, 10 sucks lol

Those are all in shift scheduling. Downshift MPH vs. TPS. For now, I would leave WOT tables alone and in the normal tables leave 100% alone. Also make sure you tweak the upshift if you make big moves on the downshift. You don’t want to make the transmission hunt between gears.

Yes. That is one of the easy annoyances to fix.

PM me your email

Just go for it and make the investment. It is well worth it. While I can catch mine from time to time in an odd state, maybe 1-2x per month, it feels great otherwise. I really look forward to driving the truck. The odd spots can be there in just about anything depending on what you do during an active shift. Downshifts are still slow if it is actively in the middle of another downshift. The other day it actually barked tires shifting down to first on a slow roll WOT kick - I actually backed out a bit to stop it. That put a smirk on my face, but I dialed it back a little lol Mine took a lot of tweaking the driver demand, torque converter apply pressure, shift speeds, inertia, shift timing, etc. - you have to be patient with the adaptation this transmission does. You can overcorrect if you aren’t patient. I was also slowing down tuning as Gen 4 stuff was ramping up (cut my teeth on Gen 3) so the Gen 5 stuff just took me a while to learn (and still am). Showroom new, the factory calibration sucked SO bad off the line. Traction off it would not even attempt to roll the tires over. It felt in 4 cyl mode. After tweaking the traction actually does it’s job to limit wheel spin to get out of the hole strong. I disabled DOD and have had a best real MPG of 22.3 on a country road cruise. By the way, you can recalibrate that too - factory mine was was high on the DIC. My best half tank of gas - which is where I normally fill up - was 20.7 MPG calculated using the same pump and topoff method. That was driving mostly country back roads from 25 MPH to 55 MPH. I haven’t had any long highway cruises to see straight highway MPG. I say all that to tell you this, a good tune on these trucks make them a lot of fun. I actually used my tow haul button to hold gears out for towing, but since I never really tow I favored it towards a “sport mode”. Real easy downshifts and delayed upshifts vs TPS.

Yes it sucks for sure! It cost me $800 to tune my own truck and I already had the hardware. $200 TCM $200 TCM unlock $200 TCM license $200 ECM license Ouch! What are you trying to change the calibration for? Any specific issue?

Here is my Sierra with blocks removed and co-workers Silverado with strut spacers (top) to level. He is working on getting new wheels and tires. I will try to get a pic of that, with it clean too lol

He has the spacers at the top of the strut assembly. He bought it that way, so we don’t know much about it.

Same height here lol The truck is fairly level (just removed the blocks), slightly higher in the rear but a good looking stance for me. I was going to put the leveling kit on, rear blocks back and then the 60 series tire. I read enough threads on ride quality and fuel economy impact concerns that I put that idea on hold for now. A coworked has a leveled ‘08 Silverado that I like the stance of better, more truck/4x4 looking, but he also has a more aggressive tire look that helps add to that. If I remember when I take the truck out of the garage I will get a better side view pic.

If you don’t want to buy anything, you have two options (still going to cost $50-$150). Get new u-bolts and pull the rear blocks. Costs $50 and about 30 minutes. It is close to level but will still handle some tongue weight before the rear squats lower than the front. the other option is 2 inch leveling ket like the Rough Country one for $50. Tack on the cost of an alignment too. This will impact ride quality more from what I have read. It may also limit tire size. I am going to go with 275/60/20 tires on my setup when I need tires. I figured the extra tire height will help a hair (I think 1/2” on the radius) so it doesn’t look lowered and also fill out the gaps better. For the truck/4x4 look I like the leveling blocks for the front. For ease, cost and understood ride quality/fuel economy I like the rear block removal. I am short, so it lets me reach in the bed and under the hood too lol I think the front cones up a tick when lowering the back too, definitely avoids the plowing the ground look.

The downshift may have been fixed with a software update or relearn. Depending on the year, I see the early calibrations with much faster downshift times than mine. I moved mine closer, but it is still 0.100-0.200 seconds slower in spots. I checked the torque on mine. The driver strut was not to spec and some of the LCA bolts were slightly under. I have issues replicating, but I guess that is good. I only notice it on sharp turns when I drive into it hard. It just bothers me it happened 2x this week.

Anyone find root cause on this yet? Just leaving home today and some other random times. It seems mostly on left turns. It is one good pop and done. I am going to check the bolt torque on everything in the front end. My question/worry is more around the front axle. I am in 2WD, but curious if there may be random noises from it. If I can get it to happen consistently I can try different scenarios. It has probably happened 5 times in the last 2500 miles, but just now 2 times in the last week.

On my WS6 I used to do mod for mod comparisons. There was a Mustang shop that would do all the work and I would just come by to tune or whenever they did GM vehicles. That was spaced out about the right time for me to get one more new mod. I was able to see what roller tip rockers did, a clutch change, rear change, header to header swap, etc.

I debated cutting off the PCV tube, it is right in the middle of the opening. I decided to leave it since it can easily be done on the truck. i suspect porting will help anything, the question is how much. I would like to see a 3 pull average to feel good it was a repeatable change.

I think their setup was H&C too, so may not be the same for a stock internal motor. That being said, my MAF frequency is up 300 Hz (even in warmer weather) and my manifold vacuum was 94 kPa and is now 97 kPa. Definitely getting more air that it was needing.

Digging up an old thread, but does anyone have torque specs for the swap? I also have the Airaid tube, sounds like I need a new coupling, anyone have a part number?

There is a cable at the top of the gas pedal that connects to the brake to move it. You can disconnect that to offset the gas more and then reconnect.

That cable goes to the brake pedal adjuster, by the way.