Everything posted by ws6firebirdta00
I post all that too now think through that will give me a positive pinion angle under load. I just keep confusing myself. Is it important that the front and rear are on the same plane or to maintain the proper differential angle at the U joints?
All - just looking for a sanity check on my numbers here. I removed the rear blocks on the truck to level it with the front (I am short so it helped me reach in the bed too haha) and have been curious about the pinion angle. Most feedback I saw seemed to indicate the block removal would not be an issue. So here is what I finally measured to make myself feel better. This is on a 2018 crew cab, short bed Sierra w/Z71 package: Transfer case u-joint points DOWN towards the rear end at 4.8° Rear end u-joint points UP towards the transfer case at 2.7° The driveshaft angle is 2.4° sloping down towards the rear of the truck So if I look at front vs. rear yokes, I get a difference of 2.1° sitting static in the driveway. On my WS6 I always ran -2° of pinion angle so under load it would zero. It seems to be a general recommendation here as well for the truck. If I use the same logic here (if I can), I should be sitting just fine for loaded conditions. As I load it, the rear pinion will point up towards the transfer case more, bringing it closer to 4.8° plane of the transfer case. In that case, the rear pinion and transfer case would be in parallel planes. The driveshaft angle will be approximately 2.5° different at the u-joints. I *THINK* that should be OK, but looking for a sanity check.
The downshift may have been fixed with a software update or relearn. Depending on the year, I see the early calibrations with much faster downshift times than mine. I moved mine closer, but it is still 0.100-0.200 seconds slower in spots. I checked the torque on mine. The driver strut was not to spec and some of the LCA bolts were slightly under. I have issues replicating, but I guess that is good. I only notice it on sharp turns when I drive into it hard. It just bothers me it happened 2x this week.
Anyone find root cause on this yet? Just leaving home today and some other random times. It seems mostly on left turns. It is one good pop and done. I am going to check the bolt torque on everything in the front end. My question/worry is more around the front axle. I am in 2WD, but curious if there may be random noises from it. If I can get it to happen consistently I can try different scenarios. It has probably happened 5 times in the last 2500 miles, but just now 2 times in the last week.
Anyone interested in a Borla catback for 2014-2018 crew cab/short bed 5.3L? I can’t ship it, but can meet locally for pickup, close to Charlotte Motor Speedway. It is in the attic, but I can get pictures if anyone is interested. It does not come with tips or passenger side bushing for the hanger (though I have one I could give with it that may work). There is a slight pinhole in one of the welds and I would recommend welding the inlet pipe to the muffler at the same time since the flare was a tad too large. PM me for more info or questions. Was around $1000 new. It has 2500 miles on it. Looking to get $600.
Mine just won’t do anything. I shut the truck off for about 2 minutes then it started again. It’s weird, I use USB music a lot and this was the first time I really had an issue. My iPhone would not connect to it either. The two ports up in the console near the dash worked fine though.
What is the part number? Mine acted up tonight and then started working. Curious if it happens again if it is a bad port. Much rather replace it myself vs. the dealer. Did it simply pop out and plug in? I have not looked any deeper than Google and see this issue in many results lol
I think the TB from Mamo was right at $390 or so. It is on his site. So it was around $250 for porting and shipping on top of the cheapest price I saw a new TB at. I am satisfied with the mod, but there is definitely more intake noise with the Airaid. I put a stock air box part in and could still hear it, mainly under 2500 RPM. Just something to consider. I could not take the noise with the full cutout of the air box mod shown above.
So far my best 25 mile MPG went from 21.8 to 23.0 and by best 50 mile MPG went from 20.3 to 22.1 MPG. The 50 best may have been a big jump because I never strung two trips together to watch it. I have tried to intentionally beat my best 25 mile when i hit the 21.8. I would say the weather was comparable to my last best and it happened on the same path coming hime from work. I am at 19.0 MPG right now with 34 of the 155 miles averaging 15.3 MPG with a lot of short (<5 mile) trips running errands. So as far as MPG improvements, I would say from what I am seeing 0.5 MPG is solid (based on where I sit right now for the tank vs my previous best). As I get more miles I will post if it changes.
7300 miles, catch can was installed at 6800 miles I saw some other pictures on here of trucks around 10k and their intake ports looked worse, but that valve doesn’t look great. I did not see other valve pictures. I should have put the catch can on sooner. I will likely run the newer Seafoam cleaner (foaming) in the future. That was cylinder #1 FWIW.
I figured I would share some info about my install of the L86 intake and throttle body. I was trying to find some information, but it was hard to come by. Boredom got the best of me and I found out that the L86 was a direct swap for the 5.3L L83. What made it worse, was the fact that the mod was $250 (with factory, non-ported TB). I couldn't not do it The main reason I was sold on this was seeing some low end results, looked liked some good torque gains. I also saw my MAP drop to 94 kPa WOT, making it clear there was restriction. I have the Elite E2 catch can (see notes on it below) so I did not need to get the PCV tube (and you should not either IMO, put a catch can on it). Here is a list of what I ordered: L86 intake 12639087 $105 Throttle body gasket 12639086 $7 Intake port gaskets 12626357 $4 each (need 8) Tony Mamo ported LT1 throttle body 3 7/8 inch diameter and 3 inch long silicone coupler for Airaid tube I ordered it all on Amazon, except for the throttle body. I decided to go with a ported throttle body based on reviews I saw online and the fact that I wanted to do it all once and be done. Tony always does great work so I have confidence buying from him. The throttle body shipped super fast! I have a few pictures attached, but I was too anxious to install everything and didn't take as much as I was hoping. Now for the install. I will try to go off memory the best I can. There are 4 bolts holding the intake cover on and several pop-in wire ties. I have some plastic trim tools and popped them out pretty easily. There are 4 in the back of the manifold cover that aren't quite as easy. By this point, I already had the Airaid tube off. I disconnected the throttle body harness and removed it. I also removed the MAP sensor and one other part (evap purge maybe?) from the front of the manifold. I removed the Elite catch can line as well. I believe at this point everything was disconnected. I removed the 10 manifold bolts and removed the cover and manifold together. I took a few shots down the intake ports. I attached one. I had 7000 miles at the time of the swap. I did Seafoam right before this swap as well. I wish I had some before and after shots for Seafoam. I did a little work to clean up some edges on the intake ports of the new manifold. There were some good edges so I just worked them down. The PCV tube on the L86 manifold sticks down right behind the throttle body. I was tempted to cut and clean this up flush with the inner wall but I left it. You can kind of see it in some of the pictures. One note before putting the new manifold on, put the old intake cover on first. I was not paying attention and missed the back side that would prevent it from being installed with the manifold on the truck. FYI - the 5.3L cover does fit the 6.2L manifold. For the install, manifold bolt torque is 44 in-lbs on the first pass and 89 in-lbs on the second pass. If you number the bolts front to back, driver side 1-5 and passenger side 6-10, the torque sequence is 3-8-9-4-2-7-10-5-6-1 The throttle body bolt torque is 89 in-lbs. The bolts threaded into plastic I just snugged up. I think the MAP sensor bolt is going into a threaded insert so I set that torque to 89 in-lbs as well since the bolt size was the same. I also wanted to share some findings on the Elite E2 catch can. Several people ask about the effectiveness. After the first 100 miles or so I was putting the correct coupler on the throttle body and took a look inside. You can see the oil residue on the PCV tube inside the intake. The Elite E2 is catching about 15 mL/500 miles. Obviously it isn't catching everything, but I did not expect it to. I would be interested to run some tests on others, but I don't have money to blow on that I am happy with the mounting of the can and the performance so far, but I can smell some slight oil pull at idle. I just assume the vapors are just passing through and the catch can is pulling out most of the aerosols. It would be nice if they tested and published some efficiency numbers, if I had to put a number on it I would call it 95% for aerosols. At the same time I did some mods to the air box. The first one I fully cut the insert. The intake noise was horrible and was vibrating stuff in the cab. I trimmed it back and only cut out the bottom opening. Quick calculations the throttle body area was around 5950 square mm. The factory air box has around 7000 square mm of open area. The lower cutout is around 1750 square mm. Looking percentage wise, the lower opening increased the opening more than proportional to the throttle body area change. There is still more intake noise like this, but it is mostly under high load and under 2000 RPM. Now the results of all this. The new intake was able to raise my manifold absolute pressure at WOT in the same gear near 5000 RPM from 94 kPa to around 97 kPa. My MAF frequency was consistently around 8700 Hz. With the new setup, I am around 9000 Hz. I have seen the mass airflow go from 32.0 lb/min to 34.2 lb/min. In the past with a calibrated MAF I (and others) have associated lb/min approximately HP/10. That being said, I don't expect this was a 22 HP gain at all. My point is, lacking any dyno numbers, this was a good move in a positive direction for the truck - less restriction and more air. As far as the throttle body, tip in throttle response is much smoother and accurate for my pedal input. I felt the truck was pretty responsive before with the tune, but there was always this weird spot at low throttle. It wasn't in the driver demand tables, I think it had to do with the odd lips in the throttle body. I don't have a before and after comparison of the same throttle body, but I am definitely glad I went ported after looking at crazy lips of the stock one. Rather than port it myself like I did for my LS1 (which didn't turn out too bad) I figured I would leave it to a pro this time With the electronic throttle control and torque based control of the ECM, it makes it hard to draw conclusions. On a cable driven throttle body, 10% before and after would make the truck feel faster after. That was simply because of the increase in throttle area and getting more airflow for a given input. Seeing these computers are looking for a torque to meet the driver demand, it isn't as noticeable, so I feel the low end gains are more real from a SOTP feel. WOT is hard to tell because the intake noise really threw me off. It sounded like a 100 HP gain after cutting the air box haha I am still running around to see if it did anything to fuel economy, but I keep getting messed up with weather or short drives to do a good comparison back and forth to work. I did average 19.8 MPG on back roads over 20 miles, that was also with the full air box cutout. The best I could do on drives to work had been 21.8 MPG for the last 25 miles and right at 19.0 MPG on a half tank. The 19 is pump verified, I think my calibration for the DIC is off on MPG for the 21.8 number. I suspect it will be closer to 21.5 actual. I have not confirmed the unit updates to that calibration at that high of a fuel economy. As for the tune, all this was post MAF and I had it calibrated already. I saw no change in the MAF, but I still need to go back with a WB for a final pass. I updated the throttle area to 4118 square mm (from a 6.2L tune) and intake manifold volume to 15,010 cubic centimeters (also from a 6.2L tune). I increased the airflow correlation for P0068 tests as well as lowered the power enrich TPS since a lower throttle position will result in a higher load with the increased area (less throttle input for same airflow).
I was curious if the roof console piece (whatever it is called) is interchangeable with the Yukon. The reason I ask is I like the mirror drop down so I don’t need an extra one to keep an eye on my daughter. The Tahoe I rented last week had a mirror pop down at the sunglasses holder. I assumed the Yukon may be the same, but I don’t k ow if they would have one in gray.
Part number is AIR-KITCOUPLER33 Have to call airaid to order. Ordered a 3.875” diameter by 3” long coupler on Amazon by HPS that will be here Friday for half the cost. The right size is 3.875” diameter.
On my WS6 I used to do mod for mod comparisons. There was a Mustang shop that would do all the work and I would just come by to tune or whenever they did GM vehicles. That was spaced out about the right time for me to get one more new mod. I was able to see what roller tip rockers did, a clutch change, rear change, header to header swap, etc.
I debated cutting off the PCV tube, it is right in the middle of the opening. I decided to leave it since it can easily be done on the truck. i suspect porting will help anything, the question is how much. I would like to see a 3 pull average to feel good it was a repeatable change.
I think their setup was H&C too, so may not be the same for a stock internal motor. That being said, my MAF frequency is up 300 Hz (even in warmer weather) and my manifold vacuum was 94 kPa and is now 97 kPa. Definitely getting more air that it was needing.
I must be missing it, but it really doesn’t matter as my TB came in today. The OD is 3.875”. Intake bolts are 44 in-lb first pass, 89 in-lb second pass. Throttle body bolts are 89 in-lb. Remember to put the intake manifold cover on before installing. I got distracted in a water gun fight with my daughter and I forgot the edge on the back means it can’t go in after the fact. The 5.3 manifold cover fits the 6.2 manifold. Now to find a piece to connect the Airaid to the new TB, the situation I was trying to avoid
I don’t have the new TB. That is why I asked. I want to have all parts ready to go. So your 5.3 elbow did not fit, assuming it was too small? Did you measure your TB and get 4”? Airaid has couplers, I think their end is about 3.85” where it necks down. I did not measure the L83 TB, but it is smaller than the Airaid. I would guess 3.5” or smaller.
Yes, I use it regularly. I probably read through about 20 posts and all the pages in them all - including the one you posted - without luck. Unfortunately, that link was for LT1/LT4, Gen 2 stuff. I need Gen 5 info. I updated that in the original post to avoid any confusion. Thanks.
I am trying to find the outside diameter of the Gen 5 LT1 throttlebody. Can anyone help? I need to find a coupler that will go from my Airaid intake tube to the new throttlebody. From what I have seen the new throttlebody has a slightly larger outside diameter. Airaid has been completely useless, claiming their kits are all different and they can’t recommend a coupler. No different than when I got the tube in with wrong parts and had to find them on my own. I need to find a coupler that will go from my Airaid intake tube to the new throttlebody. From what I have seen the new throttlebody has a slightly larger outside diameter.
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