Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

43 Good

About fish_guru

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Drives

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hate to sound like a broken record but the windows from those build dates are known to be defective. They need to be replaced. Putting sealant on a defective window is treating the symptom, not the cause. Make sure you guys open a case with GM if you haven't already. Unfortunately you guys are stuck with dealers who have to follow the TSB from GM. I was in the same boat. I even had damage to my truck after the first repair. Thankfully my dealer made it right and after two failed attempts they finally replaced the window. I have been leak free since and my truck has been flawless.
  2. Anyone have their truck fixed yet? How long did the repair take? Did it work? Does the axle/differential connection feel solid (not move) in 2WD?
  3. I totally agree with the waiting thing. I've been following this thread since it's inception but haven't posted until a fix was in simply because I didn't have any of the same symptoms you guys have had. I'm just worried that if I bring it in there without it making noise GM is not going to approve a warranty repair. That's why I'm curious to read the actual wording of the TSB.
  4. Dilemma.... I have the effected front end (I verified the RPO codes with my build sheet). If I go under the truck I can move the CV driveshaft just like the one in the video. My dilemma is that my truck has never made a peep. No jingle, no clanking...nothing. I've got 14,500 miles on it. However, I worry that 1) it will start making noises at some point and 2) that the slop/play in the shaft can't be good for the drivetrain longevity. Should I ask my dealer to fix and how should I go about it? I would like to read the bulletin. If anybody has it please post.
  5. I found that they work much better after the truck is cool...hence they're just venting cabin air. One trick I do to get the seats cooling faster is to turn on the bottom AC vents when I first get in the cab and then turn them off after it cools down. Seems to work for me.
  6. As the previous person mentioned, there is a thread...I believe it was in the troubleshooting forum . I had the noise. If I remember correctly, the vent line on the fuel filler neck was either too narrow or it needed reinforcement as it would collapse on itself causing the whistling noise. My entire fuel filler neck assembly was replaced under warranty and it solved the problem.
  7. Just e-mail or call GM Customer Service and ask them for it. They will need your VIN.
  8. From the internet...so you know it's true. If you drive a car, you've probably heard this one piece of advice countless times: Make sure your vehicle gets regular oil changes to preserve the life of your engine. Regular changes are required because the oil that lubricates and helps to cool your engine has a limited useful life. If it becomes too contaminated with dirt and metal shavings, it'll wear down your vehicle's internal engine parts. Oil can also lose viscosity, or become too thin, with the unpleasant result that it can't properly keep your engine's parts from grinding against one another. But let's face it, changing your vehicle's oil is messy and inconvenient when you do it yourself. If you're disciplined, you might even go to the trouble of writing down the date and odometer reading of your last oil change, as well as when your vehicle is due for another service. It's only slightly less inconvenient to bring your car or truck into a quick-lube establishment, having to take time out of your busy schedule. And what if your oil is actually fine and doesn't necessarily need to be changed at a 3,000-mile (4,828-kilometer) interval? In that case, you may be placing an unnecessary burden on the environment by contributing to the pumping, transport, packaging and disposal of those extra quarts of oil. But on some cars and trucks, there's a device that removes the guesswork from knowing when your oil has outlived its usefulness. The oil life indicator lets a driver know when it's time for a change, based not only on mileage, but on actual conditions that affect the quality of the oil. Depending on the vehicle manufacturer and the specific equipment used, oil indicators come in two basic varieties: algorithm-based and direct measurement. Algorithm-based oil indicators measure lots of factors and then plug the resulting numbers into a formula. Based on the answer to this complex, ongoing math problem, the indicator display will tell you whether the oil is OK, is close to requiring replacement or needs replacing immediately. Interestingly, with these types of indicators, there are no sensors to detect the quality of the oil itself. Instead they combine data on how many miles you've driven, the temperature variations during that time and data about how much work the engine has performed. Typically, the indicator (monitoring system) will receive such data from the powertrain control module, or PCM, which is the main on-board computer. Engineers have figured out a fairly accurate and reliable way to calculate the remaining oil life this way, without having to actually sample the oil. Direct measurement oil life indicators measure the condition of the oil -- the opposite approach to the system described above. This method uses sensors to sample the oil and determine its remaining life based on any of the following: Conductivity -- how easily electric current passes through the oil (typically, the lower the electrical resistance, the more contaminants are in the oil) Mechanical properties -- piezoelectric sensors can tell how thick the oil is by the force feedback it gives when sloshing around Soot concentration -- dirty oil's days are definitely numbered Presence of water -- water is an impurity in oil, since it hampers the oil's effectiveness and can corrode metal surfaces Different oil monitoring system manufacturers may use a combination of these measurement techniques. Typically, the information will display as a digital readout on the vehicle's instrument cluster. The display can feature a green, yellow or red-style status bar, with red indicating the "change oil now" zone; it could be a percentage, displaying a text message, something like "40 Percent Oil Life Remaining," or it might just be a light or a message that just comes on automatically when it's time for an oil change. If your vehicle doesn't have one already, should you be adding an oil-life indicator to the list of must-have options on your next ride? And if you do have one, should you trust its computerized judgment? It might not hurt. General Motors estimates that drivers of its oil monitor-equipped vehicles could have two to three times fewer oil changes performed each year. Theoretically, according to GM, if all the GM oil monitor-equipped cars on the road observed the maximum interval for changing oil, instead of the oft-advised every 3,000 miles (4,828 kilometers), it could result in 100 million fewer gallons of oil being consumed annually. Nonetheless, GM still advises changing the oil at least once a year, regardless of how few miles you put on the odometer.
  9. I have mine covered. I live and South Florida so it's not uncommon for me to have sunscreen on which I know will, at a minimum, discolor the leather over time. I have a neoprene cover from carconsolecovers.com. It was a tight fit but it's on there and I've only had to adjust it once in 6 months. Doesn't look as good as the factory leather but it's not getting destroyed either. Unfortunately it covers up that little storage area (cover actually came with a foam insert to place in that spot before the cover goes on). If I remember correctly, I had to call or e-mail to get the correct part to order as I wanted to make sure it fit.
  10. A new rear window is the definitive solution. Those windows are straight up defective and should be replaced. Adding extra sealant to a defective window is treating the symptom, not the cause IMHO. Unfortunately your dealer is likely to follow GM's TSB so just sit back, play the game and drive the loaner like you stole it. But hey, what do I know...only took them three tries to fix mine...the third time being with a new window.
  11. Mine has worked flawlessly thus far. It took me awhile to learn to trust them but they've been great. Still wish they would have incorporated a small blind spot mirror into the assembly...I know my eyes work everytime.
  12. I believe the mirror settings (the angle) are stored in the memory seat function just not folding in or out.
  13. I have the 10 speed and haven't had anything remotely like what you're describing. In fact, the tranny has been one of the main highlights of this truck for me thus far...(knock on wood). I have about 9500 miles on mine.
  14. Many states that have lemon laws allow you to get a new truck but you have to pay "X" amount per mile for usage of the vehicle while it was in service...at least that's how it works in Florida. For Florida.... (Number of miles driven divided by 120,000) X Vehicle Price Example... Let's say you drove it 3000 miles and paid 50K. 3000/120000 = .025 .025 X 50000 = $1,250 You'd be on the hook for $1250. That said, depending on how many miles you have and your states calculation for usage, the 3K the dealership wants may be reasonable...or they could be sticking it to you. In any event, it could be a place to begin negotiations.
  15. Was just thinking the same thing about road trips. I'm usually gone for a good three weeks over the summer. Would it be worthwhile to consider throwing an additional hose clamp over the crimp? Never mind...would most likely void the warranty should anything happen to it. Just sucks that A) these guys have to contend with this on a new vehicle and B) the rest of us can't be proactive to avoid the crimp failure and have to sit here with our fingers crossed.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.