From the internet...so you know it's true. If you drive a car, you've probably heard this one piece of advice countless times: Make sure your vehicle gets regular oil changes to preserve the life of your engine. Regular changes are required because the oil that lubricates and helps to cool your engine has a limited useful life. If it becomes too contaminated with dirt and metal shavings, it'll wear down your vehicle's internal engine parts. Oil can also lose viscosity, or become too thin, with the unpleasant result that it can't properly keep your engine's parts from grinding against one another. But let's face it, changing your vehicle's oil is messy and inconvenient when you do it yourself. If you're disciplined, you might even go to the trouble of writing down the date and odometer reading of your last oil change, as well as when your vehicle is due for another service. It's only slightly less inconvenient to bring your car or truck into a quick-lube establishment, having to take time out of your busy schedule. And what if your oil is actually fine and doesn't necessarily need to be changed at a 3,000-mile (4,828-kilometer) interval? In that case, you may be placing an unnecessary burden on the environment by contributing to the pumping, transport, packaging and disposal of those extra quarts of oil. But on some cars and trucks, there's a device that removes the guesswork from knowing when your oil has outlived its usefulness. The oil life indicator lets a driver know when it's time for a change, based not only on mileage, but on actual conditions that affect the quality of the oil. Depending on the vehicle manufacturer and the specific equipment used, oil indicators come in two basic varieties: algorithm-based and direct measurement. Algorithm-based oil indicators measure lots of factors and then plug the resulting numbers into a formula. Based on the answer to this complex, ongoing math problem, the indicator display will tell you whether the oil is OK, is close to requiring replacement or needs replacing immediately. Interestingly, with these types of indicators, there are no sensors to detect the quality of the oil itself. Instead they combine data on how many miles you've driven, the temperature variations during that time and data about how much work the engine has performed. Typically, the indicator (monitoring system) will receive such data from the powertrain control module, or PCM, which is the main on-board computer. Engineers have figured out a fairly accurate and reliable way to calculate the remaining oil life this way, without having to actually sample the oil. Direct measurement oil life indicators measure the condition of the oil -- the opposite approach to the system described above. This method uses sensors to sample the oil and determine its remaining life based on any of the following: Conductivity -- how easily electric current passes through the oil (typically, the lower the electrical resistance, the more contaminants are in the oil) Mechanical properties -- piezoelectric sensors can tell how thick the oil is by the force feedback it gives when sloshing around Soot concentration -- dirty oil's days are definitely numbered Presence of water -- water is an impurity in oil, since it hampers the oil's effectiveness and can corrode metal surfaces Different oil monitoring system manufacturers may use a combination of these measurement techniques. Typically, the information will display as a digital readout on the vehicle's instrument cluster. The display can feature a green, yellow or red-style status bar, with red indicating the "change oil now" zone; it could be a percentage, displaying a text message, something like "40 Percent Oil Life Remaining," or it might just be a light or a message that just comes on automatically when it's time for an oil change. If your vehicle doesn't have one already, should you be adding an oil-life indicator to the list of must-have options on your next ride? And if you do have one, should you trust its computerized judgment? It might not hurt. General Motors estimates that drivers of its oil monitor-equipped vehicles could have two to three times fewer oil changes performed each year. Theoretically, according to GM, if all the GM oil monitor-equipped cars on the road observed the maximum interval for changing oil, instead of the oft-advised every 3,000 miles (4,828 kilometers), it could result in 100 million fewer gallons of oil being consumed annually. Nonetheless, GM still advises changing the oil at least once a year, regardless of how few miles you put on the odometer.
I have mine covered. I live and South Florida so it's not uncommon for me to have sunscreen on which I know will, at a minimum, discolor the leather over time. I have a neoprene cover from carconsolecovers.com. It was a tight fit but it's on there and I've only had to adjust it once in 6 months. Doesn't look as good as the factory leather but it's not getting destroyed either. Unfortunately it covers up that little storage area (cover actually came with a foam insert to place in that spot before the cover goes on). If I remember correctly, I had to call or e-mail to get the correct part to order as I wanted to make sure it fit.
A new rear window is the definitive solution. Those windows are straight up defective and should be replaced. Adding extra sealant to a defective window is treating the symptom, not the cause IMHO. Unfortunately your dealer is likely to follow GM's TSB so just sit back, play the game and drive the loaner like you stole it. But hey, what do I know...only took them three tries to fix mine...the third time being with a new window.
Mine has worked flawlessly thus far. It took me awhile to learn to trust them but they've been great. Still wish they would have incorporated a small blind spot mirror into the assembly...I know my eyes work everytime.
I have the 10 speed and haven't had anything remotely like what you're describing. In fact, the tranny has been one of the main highlights of this truck for me thus far...(knock on wood). I have about 9500 miles on mine.
fish_guru replied to jasnak's topic in 2019/2020 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingMany states that have lemon laws allow you to get a new truck but you have to pay "X" amount per mile for usage of the vehicle while it was in service...at least that's how it works in Florida. For Florida.... (Number of miles driven divided by 120,000) X Vehicle Price Example... Let's say you drove it 3000 miles and paid 50K. 3000/120000 = .025 .025 X 50000 = $1,250 You'd be on the hook for $1250. That said, depending on how many miles you have and your states calculation for usage, the 3K the dealership wants may be reasonable...or they could be sticking it to you. In any event, it could be a place to begin negotiations.
fish_guru replied to jasnak's topic in 2019/2020 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingWas just thinking the same thing about road trips. I'm usually gone for a good three weeks over the summer. Would it be worthwhile to consider throwing an additional hose clamp over the crimp? Never mind...would most likely void the warranty should anything happen to it. Just sucks that A) these guys have to contend with this on a new vehicle and B) the rest of us can't be proactive to avoid the crimp failure and have to sit here with our fingers crossed.
I agree, it would be nice to have the option to make it a double push switch. I do love the feature though. Use it all the time. Wonder if any GMC owners have dented their multi-pro tailgates on a trailer hitch with that part that folds down?
I've done it...twice. I have a narrow driveway and keep my truck and a 2000 Jeep Wrangler parked one in front of the other depending on which one I'm driving that day. Several weeks ago I had the truck backed up to the Jeep and when I say backed up, I mean you can't squeeze between them. I was detailing the inside of the truck. While wiping down the truck's center console area I must have inadvertently pressed the power down tailgate button. Didn't realize it until I walked around and saw the tailgate sitting on the black metal aftermarket bumper on the Jeep. Thought for sure I dented or scratched it especially since I knew it was aluminum. Lifted it up and nothing. Not a mark. A few weeks later my dumb ass did the exact same thing. You'd think I would have learned. No marks again. Now I pull the truck forward enough to ensure the tailgate will not make contact with the Jeep while I'm cleaning it.
Trucks from the problem build dates should simply have those windows replaced, period, end of story. They know they're defective. Instead, they are following that ridiculous TSB and attempting to seal an F'ed up window. Most of us end up going back two and three times. They removed and re-set my original window...leaked...re-sealed...leaked...replaced...fixed. Replace the window from the get go and you're good.
Is it possible that a software update would revert the settings back to a default format? Haven't had any of those issues. I did have to save my memory seat settings again after picking it up from the dealer once (mine and my wife's were gone...pushed the button and nothing). I know they did some recall software updates while I was there so I figured maybe that is what caused it.
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