"ideal" is 180. Much like ideal of engine temp is 210. Doesn't mean running it over that temp is going to cause problems. Sure, fluid will sheer sooner and have a shorter lifespan--it's a consumable, replace it after X miles. What is this body of text from? Something advertising additional products from their company? I trust an engineer from GM before someone selling me a product to help with a problem that isn't really there. Failure in these transmission is due to a 1:50,000 chance--most likely due to manufacturing. Probably a 1:1,000,000 chance it's due to over heating. Again, if the load you're putting on it is creating that much heat, you have the wrong tool for the job. These are half ton, grocery getters, weekend home depot runners. Sure, they can pull 10K lbs, but in reality, they are not designed for it long term. That's what the HD's and real/full size trucks are for. Yes, you can make the truck exceed capacity or run at it's peak capacity, but you're just putting band-aids on problems that shouldn't have been there in the first place if used appropriately. These are not race cars, these are not off road rigs, these are definitely not heavy duty or full size trucks. If you're creating that much heat to damage a transmission, you're using it a manner that exceeds GM's target market for these vehicles.
If you're building that much heat in the transmission, having no thermostat isn't going to prevent the temps from going above 180. 180 is the normal operating temperature and when the t-stat is fully open. Now having no thermostat is likely to cause more wear and stress on the transmission as it is running with fluid that hasn't met its target viscosity. This means reduction in MPG, more wear on the internals, and likely to cause blockages and other problems as it isn't warming up enough to burn off moisture build up/accumulation. It is also normal to run regularly around 155-165 as the thermostat is partially open but not wide open until 180. That does not mean that normally running temperature is 160--that just means the thermostat hasn't reached it's target temperature yet--much like the t-stat of the motor running at 210*. Having a dual cooler with a T-stat is a better platform--the transmission can run at normal operating temperature but can keep cool when the heat build up exceeds what a single cooler would be able to manage. The fluid specified is capable of the higher temps than just 180* and the truck would warn if there is an overheating problem--much like the coolant that runs through the motor. The motor runs at 210 with the t-stat wide open but can comfortably run at 10% above that temperature as well and still be within normal operating spec without any long term concerns. If you're hammering on the trans to the point where it is constantly running near the peak of its operating confines, you're using the wrong truck for the project. That, or you need to subsidize the cooling system with additional oil coolers. Not having the thermostat is outright dumb and ignorant.
Thermostat doesn't prevent transmission from getting hot--rather the opposite--it allows it to get to operating temperature where it is most efficient and easier on the syncros, etc. That's a great price for a new trans. Can't beat that. If mine started acting up, I'd take it to the dealer and trade it in ASAP. The loss on trade in is probably less than the trans itself and then I can start fresh. So long as I can limp to the dealer and clear the code so it passes inspection, let GM have at it.
Bumpers and exhaust do not align. There is a noticeable gap between bed rails and bed of truck. There is a youtube video about it. If you have metal fab skills, no problem, but if not, then it's a big project.
madsen203 replied to kanewtz's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingHave you tested battery on truck? Test batteries of both key fobs? The transmitter doesn't use much battery so they would probably die at equal times due to age.
madsen203 replied to lapoolboy's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingThis thread resolved my issue. I hear it faintly once in a blue moon but way better than before. Dealer confirmed misaligned/deformed boot causing sound leakage.
Trying to determine what is the "normal" max A/C temperature for a given temperature range. In my car, the AC blows at 33.4* when ambient temperature is 76*. The truck blows just a hair over 44* in same ambient temperature, same location, same time, both in the shade. Method of testing: vent speed on low, side vents turned off (test from center console vents), temperature set to "lo" on both dials, recirculation enabled, vent direction on face only. I tested with a digital, instant thermometer rested in the vent for 10 minutes and recorded the lowest temperature and average temperature. I also turn it up to 75 and back down to lo to rule out possibility of a sticking mixture vent. The truck seems like it can never fully cool and it appears the ac is just slightly out of spec. The attached photo is a performance temperature chart for a Honda Accord but should more or less be the standard. The car met the standard, but the truck is on the "high end" of normal. 2018 Sierra 1500, 6.2 SLT with NHT What temperature does yours read at? For those of you who had to have condensers replaced, what is your AC temperature reading now? TIA!
I am 98% sure it is this. The noise dissipating when turning left led me to finding this. Thanks GM forums! Also thanks to this forum I found the TSB that addressed the rear back up camera at full brightness at night. The dealer checked the lifters and all is fine. Ready to get this over and done with! **UPDATE** The dealer acknowledged this was the cause and is replacing the seal. Woot!!!
I am 98% sure it is this. The noise dissipating when turning left led me to finding this. Thanks GM forums! Also thanks to this forum I found the TSB that addressed the rear back up camera at full brightness at night. The dealer checked the lifters and all is fine. Ready to get this over and done with!
madsen203 replied to lapoolboy's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingGlad I found this thread. I am 98% sure this is what is going on in my truck. I was ready to flush the oil, etc thinking it was a lifter. Thanks for posting this!!!
I'm doing my best to isolate this ticking sound that is persistent, yet intermittent. Data so far: 2018 CC SLT 1500 6.2L 4WD Max Tow 19K miles, all stock Doesn't happen when motor is cold, much more prevalent when motor is warmed Doesn't happen when letting off throttle (only under application of throttle), can be heard in neutral, park, and in drive (not in reverse enough to tell--but it happens when transmission is not engaged) Sound follows steady or increasing RPM of motor Under light to medium load, noise is prevalent, under heavy acceleration it subsides (not because of engine noise) If I turn wheels hard left, the noise disappears, straighten wheels, it returns (like wheel is blocking noise from traveling) Sound only heard on driver side If I hit some oscillating bumps on the road, it can stop for a while before returning back (under varying loads as well) If left in tow/haul mode, at 2500 rpm under light load it can still be heard Ran 2 bottles of Red Line injector cleaner and it didn't eliminate/help noise The truck was silent until the 700 mile mark and I hit an expansion joint (nothing out of the ordinary) and the sound started and has remained ever since I've checked exhaust/manifold connectors and no sign of leaks (soot) I put a hollow aluminum rod (2 foot long) to the vacuum pump and did not hear any abnormal noises directly from the pump Obviously heard injector noises when put to the injectors; haven't had chance to stop on side of road when the sound disappears to run comparison tests Sometimes it'll run dead silent when driving down the road (after complete warm up) and power delivery doesn't change but noise comes back within a minute or two Sound heard in both V-8 and V-4 modes, and while in manual shift mode Use premium 91 gas ever since purchase (93 not available in Bay Area)--use Costco Top Tier fuel (high volume station) Oil changed with Mobil 0-20W Full Synthetic every 5K miles religiously and OEM filters (indicator usually states 37% remaining at around 5k miles) 90/10 Highway/City driving Any thoughts? My MPG is seems close to normal. Lifetime average of 17, most of my time driving is short city trips or long highway driving with a bed full of gear and a dirt bike. Some of the actions seem like it could be a noise related to the vacuum pump but the pump doesn't exhibit any noises itself. Sounds kind of like exhaust leak--exhaust seems to check out (no notable soot around connections or along piping that is visible). If it was something loose, I would think that even under deceleration (letting off throttle) would cause the noise to persist. It follows increasing RPM. I've checked around the footwell and haven't noiced any plugs missing or issues there. The fact that the sound is not there when cold or after some bumpy roads makes me think something else is up. Thoughts? Things to check? When it is quiet, this truck is wonderful. The ticking in the background that comes and goes is like a form of Chinese water torture. The fact that it does go away sometimes makes me even crazier as I know it could be better. When I bought it, it did not make this noise. Only after 700 miles of driving did it begin to tick tick tick away.
Payload differs from max bed load. I have a payload of 1830...but the max payload for the bed is 1040 no matter how much or little is in the cab. This is probably due to max rated weight capacity of the tires and axles. Check your max payload for the bed--I think mine was listed in the glove box.
Please help! I got got the correct diodes and followed the instructions for 10-22. Having done so, now my intellibeams setup works (never did before) or at least the indicator comes on and deactivated per the manuals instructions (two pulls on the high beam). The fog fog lights still do not come on automatically with the headlights nor do they come on with high beams. I completed the diode install for the trailer mirror lights in reverse mod so I am 90% sure I’m doing things right as far as how deep the diode is inserted, etc. is is there something different for the 2018 trucks? I tried the 10-18 mod but the fog lights didn’t come on with high beams either. They did work on the parking lights in that configuration but, again, not automatically when the headlights triggered automatically. I was running the truck when testing. I covered ambient sensor and it triggered headlights. No fog lights illuminated with automatically. Am I missing something? TIA Michael
Super helpful picture. Thank you for posting. I was wondering how some folks handles the diodes. Thank you for demonstrating install and how you connected reverse lights as well. Thumbs UP!
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