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bimmerboy318

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About bimmerboy318

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  1. Picked up the truck. The dealer basically said that maybe the selling dealer could change more than one tire. Basically, the LR inner that had high road force, they replaced that tire. And guess what. The RFV value was the same. Wouldn't it make them think it might be the rim? Also, it's the inner with the steel rim. Why not try the spare? Anyways, filed a case with GM and an advisor will be contacting me sometime next week. Anyone ever have any experience?
  2. That didn’t work. New tire on LR inner and also got a better RFV on the LR outer. No change. The search continues. What did upset me a little was he asked if bringing it back to the selling dealer would be a better option for us. We told them that we were able to bring it to any GMC dealer.
  3. Well, dealer test drove again. This time 28miles on highway and the GMC app says they broke 80mph for 0.1% of the trip. They said they checked tires for flat spotting and found one to be bad. Remember the LR inner that was 38 then 26 on RFV? That one. I coulda told them something was wrong with that tire the first visit!!! So pick it it up tomorrow with 1 new tire. Not sure if this will fix the shake in the steering wheel. But we will see.
  4. I have a 3500HD DRW and others have replied in my thread here...
  5. Michelin’s response. “Thank you for your business but we do not have these numbers. Please contact your authorized dealer.” Lol!
  6. Second dealer visit is scheduled for Thur May 16th at 2200miles. I’m hoping that they at least acknowledge a tire issue. Still not not sure if the target Road force is 30lbs or 15lbs. The LR dually has one at 18 and one at 26 last time they checked.
  7. Did you have vibration issues to begin with? Are you SRW or DRW? On DRW - all wheels are under 9 RF values except the 2 on the left rear dually. The inner dually being the worse at 28 RF. I was going to take it to a real tire shop and have them check the spare and get the best RF values they could. Then remove weights and install Centramatics.
  8. I’m ready to try centramtics, but how do they help with high RF values?
  9. Your comment about this being a process is what gives me hope. Truck has 800 miles on it and is indeed getting better but disappointing nonetheless.
  10. RF values were all under 10lbs on the front and the two on the right rear. Inner left rear started at 38 and ended with 26 after rotating tire on rim. Outer left rear was 18. All re-balanced. Vibration is better but manifests itself between 65-70mph the most. Also seems that the vibration only happens after it’s been warmed up. For instance, I won’t feel it when driving to get take-out, but will feel it on the exact same route on the way home. The steering wheel will shimmy seemingly as a reflection of the vibration. Lowered tire pressures to 65psi front and 60psi in the rears. That helped some. Tried putting 200lbs in the bed and that seemed to help as well. But 65-70mph is the sweet spot for feeling the vibes. Dealer said all in spec with RF under 30. Going to spend my own money next on a local shop that does RF as well as on vehicle balancing. I wonder if the dually tires are somehow fighting each other causing some kind of harmonic off balance.
  11. Looking for a tonneau cover preferably under $900 for my long bed DRW. Love how the ultra flush retractable tonneau’s look but not in love with their price. Leaning toward the Extang Solid Fold 2.0 but wanted to get your opinion or perhaps another suggestion. Does it really stick up that much in the bigger scheme of things?
  12. The leather in most modern vehicles is leather but goes through a process to make it look uniform. In essence, the leather is “clear coated” and therefore traditional leather products that soak into it just sit on top and attract more dirt. Keeping the leather clean is more beneficial than any top coating. The Leather Masters products I mentioned are designed for these types of leather. My experience with Lexol is that it works better on traditional leathers.
  13. Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner and Leather Barrier. Use a finger nail brush to get into texture... https://www.autogeek.net/vilescbr.html This leaves the leather not shiny and not sticky. Will look just like factory new with no added smells.
  14. Working in the automotive industry, I’ve seen touch up spray cans of the e-coat that is used at the factory. It basically appears like glorified spray paint so if you can find a quality spray paint, it would probably work as well. As with all paint applications, the prep is the most important part. Tape off to nearest weld seams, degrease with acetone or similar, and paint to match is all I’m planning to do. The cans in the plant did not have a fancy label... but here’s something on amazon... https://www.amazon.com/U-POL-Black-Coat-Repair-UPO890/dp/B078F193XG
  15. Some back story, I have typically driven sport sedans all my life and even with those, upgraded the brake pads. My favorites were always Axxis Metal Masters and more recently Centric Posi Quiet. Both pads needed the first stop of the drive to “warm up” on a winter day and were ready right away in summer. Thinking about the Hawk LTS for my 3500 DRW but not sure if I I should consider anything else. The stock pads stop ok but require more pedal pressure than I’d like.
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