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About dj_bosse

  • Birthday 09/26/1996

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    DJ Bosse
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    2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500HD Crew Cab 6.0L 4x4

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  1. I have a 2006 Silverado 2500HD and am thinking about selling because I don't drive it much and the market is absurd at the moment. It's a crew cab short bed with 60,****** miles. It's a work truck model with crank windows and manual locks, with a camper shell and has the snow plow package from the factory. It has a few dings and rocker rust, as well as surface rust visible on the frame (absolutely no rust through or soft spots on the frame at all). It doesn't have any major mechanical issues, just an intermittent EVAP leak. I'm trying to come up with a reasonable asking price. KBB shows a range anywhere from $15k (fair condition) to $18k (excellent condition), but I can't find any similar trucks with similar mileage anywhere close, so I feel like the KBB numbers may not be as accurate as they typically are. (I would probably classify the truck as "Good condition" given the rocker rust and EVAP issue.) I'm also wondering if it may be worth it to put a couple grand into fixing the rocker rust and then selling it. But again, I just don't have a good idea of where the selling price should be (as it sits now & if I were to fix the rockers). If anyone has any recommendations, I'd appreciate it.
  2. Hello, I have a 2006 Silverado 2500HD and am looking to replacing my generic rear view mirror with one with the compass and temperature read out. I know the air temperature sensor is located behind the grill at the center of the core support, but where do the wires run before going to the mirror? EDIT: Wiring connects to pins A3 & A4 of the relay block to the left of the steering column.
  3. Sorry to bring back an old thread, but thought I'd give an update on this. After many delays I finally got around to replacing the bearings. Long story short, it didn't fix the problem.
  4. I've already run scan data and both front wheel speeds drop out as I'm slowing down. I ended up ordering new bearings and will replace them myself once I get back in town. If it doesn't fix the issue I'll likely report back here for second thoughts. Thanks for the feedback.
  5. Thanks for the response. I do somewhat agree with that, however them charging $1500 for bearings is absurd. And I know I'd be able to do the job myself, but if I replace them and it doesn't fix the issue then I'm out the $300 in parts plus the $125 I paid to Chevy for them to give me the wrong diagnosis; then I'm in the same situation I'm currently in (just out $400). I guess I just would've expected Chevy to do a bit more digging into the problem (checking the sensor gap, seeing if the module is functioning, etc.) prior to just saying to do what the scan tool says. And somewhat addressing your rust comment: I know rust can get in the hub, but I had zero ABS/brake issues prior to the wire being chewed. In my opinion, I would think if rust was causing my current issue, it would've caused issues prior to the wire being chewed. So while I can understand rust in the hub can be an issue, I'm just not sure I think that would be my case here.
  6. I have a 2006 Silverado 2500HD with 57xxx miles and have been having ABS issues for the past couple months. I was driving down the highway one day and the clip holding the wheel speed sensor for the passenger front wheel broke and the rim rubbed through the wire. When the wired chewed through, the ABS light came on (code C0035/40 for front left/right speed sensors). When I got home, I started checking stuff out and noticed I had some loose ball joints and some play in the tie rods, so I replaced all ball joints/tie rods/stabilizer links, and also replaced the wheel speed sensors for both sides (driver's front clip was also broken, so figured it was a matter of time before it chewed the wire). On my test drive, the first time I slowed for a stop sign the ABS light came on. Once I was under 30mph the brake light also illuminated on the dash. I tested the resistance of the new speed sensors and they were slightly higher than the factory spec, so I thought maybe I just got defective sensors (ACDelco from Rockauto). After getting the warranteed sensors, the new ones had the same issue, although the resistance tested within the spec provided by GM. I decided I may be above my head, so I took it to trusted a shop. The shop tested resistance on the sensors, agreed with my conclusion, and tested the output from the brake module. They believe somehow the brake module shorted out and there's an issue coming from the module below 30mph such that it can't read the wheel speeds, and then activates the ABS/brake lights. They also said if it is the brake module, that Chevy is the only one who's able to program them, so I may be better off just taking it to Chevy rather than making them be the middle man. So I took it to Chevy (fully expected them to charge an arm and leg for the repair) and I don't quite agree with their diagnosis, so thought I'd ask for some feedback on the forum. They are saying I just need to replace the front wheel bearings (including the speed sensors). They also want to charge $1500 to do this. Being that the speed sensors are new and verified to be working, is it reasonable to conclude that replacing the bearings won't fix the issue? Only reason I could think this could fix the issue is if the gap on the sensor isn't correct. But then again, if that's the case, I'm wondering why they don't just fix the gap on the sensors (apart from trying to take an extra $1300 from me). Maybe I'm just being paranoid about them trying to take advantage of me, but I'd hate to go through with this repair and the issue not be fixed. I appreciate any thoughts.
  7. I have a 2006 Silverado 2500HD and am doing significant amounts of construction inspection. To make my truck more noticeable, I'm wanting to add construction flashers without obscene amounts of effort/aftermarket wiring. I've seen the Speed Turtle flasher system does a pretty good job on the newer Silverados in terms of visibility, but their website says it fits 2007-2020 Silverados. Was wondering if anyone's tried using this on the classic Silverados, or if anyone knows how different the wiring between the old and new body styles are. Unfortunately, they charge a restock fee for returns if it doesn't fit your vehicle. I did notice they don't specify for 2007 which body style. I'd assume new body style, but seems pretty ambiguous. Any thoughts from anyone on whether you've tried using this flasher system or if you think it would be compatible with the classics? Thanks.
  8. I personally haven't checked for that specific connector from the dealer. (I actually just wired up my mirrors a few months ago and decided not to find the OEM connector.) Most parts that I've needed have been discontinue from the dealer, but never hurts to call and ask. They may be able to give you a part number to search for though. Good luck
  9. Then the easiest way (assuming you can find one) would probably be to find a junkyard truck with the same style mirrors/controls as yours. Just a heads up, I have the same year truck as you and none of the junkyards around me have our truck. Hopefully you have better luck where you are. Cut the truck side connector off the junkyard truck and solder it to the wires coming from your truck. The connector from that truck should fit into the OEM style mirrors. If you can't find a truck at the junkyard, you might be able to find the connector end at a parts store (AutoZone, Rockauto, etc.). If you can't you'll have to do trial and error to find out which wires control which function, cut the connector off the mirror side, and solder the wires from the mirror side to the truck side (essentially eliminates the connector). A wiring diagram would be helpful if you have access to one. If you go this route, just FYI you won't be able to remove your door without cutting the wires, since you wouldn't have the quick disconnect feature of having the connectors.
  10. Assuming the plug connecting to the tow mirrors is the stock plug, you should just be able to re-solder the wires together, color matching as you go. If the connector has different wire colors than the wire on the truck side, you'll likely need to do trial and error to find out what wires do what. Even if the harness has the stock wire colors, I'd probably still check to make sure the controls work as the wires are touched together (and the switch is pressed) to make sure they work (before soldering them together).
  11. Appreciate the reply. I ended up doing multiple voltage tests on the batteries during start and it appears everything is functioning as desired with the setup I have. I ended up putting in a battery with zero charge to simulate a dead primary battery condition, and the truck started without hesitation.
  12. Hey everyone. I'm looking to run a second battery so I don't have to run new accessories off the original battery. I also want the second battery to be able to start the truck if/when the main battery dies, but don't want the main battery to be able to drain the second battery. I did quite a bit of research and thought I had it all figured out, and started running my wiring. Here's my wiring to allow the second battery to start/run the truck in case the main battery dies: positive cable running off the second battery into a 200A fuse, which runs into a battery isolator. The isolator has a ground wire and a wire running to the ignition fuse (with the understanding that when the key is turned to accessories, the isolator will allow the batteries to connect). The other side of the isolator connects to another 200A fuse to my alternator (which has been upgraded to accommodate the additional demand). Here's my question/confusion. With the key off the batteries have 0.2V difference in voltage. With the key on (but not running) the difference drops to 0.1V. With the truck running they're the same voltage +/-. With the key on and off (immediately after key off) the batteries have the same amperage draw. From this, it makes me concerned that they're not being separated/connected how I want them to. Now assuming the wiring is correct, I'm also confused on how the isolator can be commanded to allow the batteries to connect in the case that the main battery dies. If the isolator is told to allow them to connect when the key is turned, but the main battery is completely dead, there wouldn't be any power being delivered the ignition fuse until the key is turned. So if that's the case, there wouldn't be anything to tell the isolator to allow the batteries to connect, so the second battery wouldn't be able to start truck.
  13. I had access to a SnapOn scanner (for free) so that's what I used. There is a way to do it without a scan tool, but you need a lot of open road without any lights or stop signs which can make it difficult to complete the relearn. I'm sure if you took it to a shop for them to relearn they'd charge you a full hour labor even though it takes no more than 10 seconds to complete.
  14. You said there's been no change in performance or gas mileage when the light is flashing. Can you actually tell that the truck is misfiring when the light is blinking? This may sound like a stupid question, but on my 06 2500 and my cousin's 04 2500 we both had "ghost" P0300 codes, where there wasn't a noticeable misfire (no shudder or anything). Both of ours ended up being the crankshaft position sensor. Did a relearn on the sensor and the P0300 cleared and hasn't come back (~6 months since performed relearn).
  15. So I recently got back from a vacation (~1 week of the truck sitting) and the battery on my 2006 Silverado 2500HD (6.0, ~51k miles) was completely dead - took it to Autozone to charge, put the battery back in the truck, and everything worked with the key on, engine off (all appropriate lights turned on, fuel pump primed, etc.). Tried to start the truck and it ran for about a half second and sputtered/died, almost like the fuel got cut off. At this time I noticed all the warning lights were on - ABS, SRS, fuel light, etc (none of which were on last time I drove the truck). The odometer also displayed "Reduced Engine Power." I grabbed my Autel scanner to see if there were actual codes being displayed or if the computer was just confused and there was no power to the OBD port. I was somewhat confused, so I turned the key off, took it out of the ignition, and opened the door when I noticed the radio didn't turn off (now I know what killed the battery!). I decided to start with the radio issue because it had the easiest solution - just put the OEM one back in. The aftermarket radio had been in for about a month without any issues. Pulled the radio and put the OEM one back in. Turned the key and the truck ran like it always did without any problems, without any lights, without any warnings. So I grabbed my Autel again (OBD port now has power) and ran full diagnostics on all modules, and it pulled a single code from just about every module - a U1000. The reader didn't describe the code but I assume it's just a dummy light saying communication failures. I saved the codes so I'd remember them, and then cleared them all to see if they came back. Re-ran the diagnostic and had no codes. Later in the day I drove the truck a few miles and there still weren't any codes. So after the long backstory, I'm just confused on what would actually cause this to happen. Clearly it all stemmed from the aftermarket radio, but why would so many modules be affected by the radio? I had the base radio originally (no cassette deck, CD, AUX or anything), so I wouldn't have thought they'd run a bunch of stuff through the radio (like I know some Chevys run security systems through the radio which makes it a pain to swap them). I assume the power draw was there from the time the radio was installed until today, and it just wasn't noticeable because I was driving the truck enough to keep recharging the battery. I'd like to have a better radio in the truck but want to ensure this won't happen again. Luckily, all it cost me was 45 minutes waiting for the battery to charge and about 10 minutes swapping the radios and running diagnostics.
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