I have a 2006 Silverado 2500HD and am doing significant amounts of construction inspection. To make my truck more noticeable, I'm wanting to add construction flashers without obscene amounts of effort/aftermarket wiring. I've seen the Speed Turtle flasher system does a pretty good job on the newer Silverados in terms of visibility, but their website says it fits 2007-2020 Silverados. Was wondering if anyone's tried using this on the classic Silverados, or if anyone knows how different the wiring between the old and new body styles are. Unfortunately, they charge a restock fee for returns if it doesn't fit your vehicle. I did notice they don't specify for 2007 which body style. I'd assume new body style, but seems pretty ambiguous. Any thoughts from anyone on whether you've tried using this flasher system or if you think it would be compatible with the classics? Thanks.
I personally haven't checked for that specific connector from the dealer. (I actually just wired up my mirrors a few months ago and decided not to find the OEM connector.) Most parts that I've needed have been discontinue from the dealer, but never hurts to call and ask. They may be able to give you a part number to search for though. Good luck
Then the easiest way (assuming you can find one) would probably be to find a junkyard truck with the same style mirrors/controls as yours. Just a heads up, I have the same year truck as you and none of the junkyards around me have our truck. Hopefully you have better luck where you are. Cut the truck side connector off the junkyard truck and solder it to the wires coming from your truck. The connector from that truck should fit into the OEM style mirrors. If you can't find a truck at the junkyard, you might be able to find the connector end at a parts store (AutoZone, Rockauto, etc.). If you can't you'll have to do trial and error to find out which wires control which function, cut the connector off the mirror side, and solder the wires from the mirror side to the truck side (essentially eliminates the connector). A wiring diagram would be helpful if you have access to one. If you go this route, just FYI you won't be able to remove your door without cutting the wires, since you wouldn't have the quick disconnect feature of having the connectors.
Assuming the plug connecting to the tow mirrors is the stock plug, you should just be able to re-solder the wires together, color matching as you go. If the connector has different wire colors than the wire on the truck side, you'll likely need to do trial and error to find out what wires do what. Even if the harness has the stock wire colors, I'd probably still check to make sure the controls work as the wires are touched together (and the switch is pressed) to make sure they work (before soldering them together).
Appreciate the reply. I ended up doing multiple voltage tests on the batteries during start and it appears everything is functioning as desired with the setup I have. I ended up putting in a battery with zero charge to simulate a dead primary battery condition, and the truck started without hesitation.
Hey everyone. I'm looking to run a second battery so I don't have to run new accessories off the original battery. I also want the second battery to be able to start the truck if/when the main battery dies, but don't want the main battery to be able to drain the second battery. I did quite a bit of research and thought I had it all figured out, and started running my wiring. Here's my wiring to allow the second battery to start/run the truck in case the main battery dies: positive cable running off the second battery into a 200A fuse, which runs into a battery isolator. The isolator has a ground wire and a wire running to the ignition fuse (with the understanding that when the key is turned to accessories, the isolator will allow the batteries to connect). The other side of the isolator connects to another 200A fuse to my alternator (which has been upgraded to accommodate the additional demand). Here's my question/confusion. With the key off the batteries have 0.2V difference in voltage. With the key on (but not running) the difference drops to 0.1V. With the truck running they're the same voltage +/-. With the key on and off (immediately after key off) the batteries have the same amperage draw. From this, it makes me concerned that they're not being separated/connected how I want them to. Now assuming the wiring is correct, I'm also confused on how the isolator can be commanded to allow the batteries to connect in the case that the main battery dies. If the isolator is told to allow them to connect when the key is turned, but the main battery is completely dead, there wouldn't be any power being delivered the ignition fuse until the key is turned. So if that's the case, there wouldn't be anything to tell the isolator to allow the batteries to connect, so the second battery wouldn't be able to start truck.
I had access to a SnapOn scanner (for free) so that's what I used. There is a way to do it without a scan tool, but you need a lot of open road without any lights or stop signs which can make it difficult to complete the relearn. I'm sure if you took it to a shop for them to relearn they'd charge you a full hour labor even though it takes no more than 10 seconds to complete.
You said there's been no change in performance or gas mileage when the light is flashing. Can you actually tell that the truck is misfiring when the light is blinking? This may sound like a stupid question, but on my 06 2500 and my cousin's 04 2500 we both had "ghost" P0300 codes, where there wasn't a noticeable misfire (no shudder or anything). Both of ours ended up being the crankshaft position sensor. Did a relearn on the sensor and the P0300 cleared and hasn't come back (~6 months since performed relearn).
So I recently got back from a vacation (~1 week of the truck sitting) and the battery on my 2006 Silverado 2500HD (6.0, ~51k miles) was completely dead - took it to Autozone to charge, put the battery back in the truck, and everything worked with the key on, engine off (all appropriate lights turned on, fuel pump primed, etc.). Tried to start the truck and it ran for about a half second and sputtered/died, almost like the fuel got cut off. At this time I noticed all the warning lights were on - ABS, SRS, fuel light, etc (none of which were on last time I drove the truck). The odometer also displayed "Reduced Engine Power." I grabbed my Autel scanner to see if there were actual codes being displayed or if the computer was just confused and there was no power to the OBD port. I was somewhat confused, so I turned the key off, took it out of the ignition, and opened the door when I noticed the radio didn't turn off (now I know what killed the battery!). I decided to start with the radio issue because it had the easiest solution - just put the OEM one back in. The aftermarket radio had been in for about a month without any issues. Pulled the radio and put the OEM one back in. Turned the key and the truck ran like it always did without any problems, without any lights, without any warnings. So I grabbed my Autel again (OBD port now has power) and ran full diagnostics on all modules, and it pulled a single code from just about every module - a U1000. The reader didn't describe the code but I assume it's just a dummy light saying communication failures. I saved the codes so I'd remember them, and then cleared them all to see if they came back. Re-ran the diagnostic and had no codes. Later in the day I drove the truck a few miles and there still weren't any codes. So after the long backstory, I'm just confused on what would actually cause this to happen. Clearly it all stemmed from the aftermarket radio, but why would so many modules be affected by the radio? I had the base radio originally (no cassette deck, CD, AUX or anything), so I wouldn't have thought they'd run a bunch of stuff through the radio (like I know some Chevys run security systems through the radio which makes it a pain to swap them). I assume the power draw was there from the time the radio was installed until today, and it just wasn't noticeable because I was driving the truck enough to keep recharging the battery. I'd like to have a better radio in the truck but want to ensure this won't happen again. Luckily, all it cost me was 45 minutes waiting for the battery to charge and about 10 minutes swapping the radios and running diagnostics.
So it took me longer to get around to it than expected but the misfire did not follow the coils. I ordered a new crank sensor and got access to a high end scan tool, so if I have time before the weather turns cold I'll change out the sensor and do the relearn. Hopefully this is the fix. I'll try to post my results.
I had thought about swapping coils around but then I thought it would be very strange if 4 coils failed at the same exact time. Still something I can do, I just thought it'd be unlikely for them all to fail concurrently and at such a low mileage. I'll likely get around to swapping them this weekend and will try to report back with any findings (nowhere really close I can get up to 75mph so won't be able to do it until the weekend).
Have a 2006 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 with ~49,000 miles. Runs great until I hit ~70mph, and then it throws a P0300 random misfire code. It doesn't seem to bog the engine down (doesn't stutter/hesitate or anything). Pulled out my code reader to read live data and it's misfiring on cylinders 1, 5, 6, & 8. Replaced all spark plugs and wires and the problem persists. I find it hard to believe I'd have 4 coils go bad at once so I kind of ruled those out. From research, it seems a lot of people have had multiple random cylinder misfires like this on the 6.0s and seems like everyone had a different solution ranging from cats to O2s to crankshaft position sensor etc. Was wondering if anyone had some guidance on how I can pinpoint the issue without throwing money at parts or taking it to a shop. Engine light flashes a P0300 once I hit 70 mph and occasionally stays on for a P0300 (one is pending and one is current). Also just threw an evap system code for the first time (P0446), not sure if related.
Thanks everyone for the feedback. I may try using a strap wrench so I don't have to replace it right away. I'd be somewhat surprised if the bulbs are burnt out because the truck only has 48,000 miles. Maybe I'll touch up the solder joints. Thought if they weren't soldered I'd just replaced them with colored LEDs. They looked pretty awesome on my old Chevy but took more time than I liked.
I have a 2006 Silverado 2500HD 6.0 that I just picked up a couple days ago. It has a squealing belt and when I went to change it out, the bolt on the belt tensioner just spins (doesn't actually relieve tension on the belt). Is this a sign that the tensioner has failed? Or am I just missing something? Also, the light behind the speedometer on the cluster is burnt out. I've replaced the bulbs on another Chevy I owned and they had to be soldered in, but from looking online I found some models have twist in light bulbs. Does anyone have experience replacing the bulbs on the 2006 model? I'd rather not go through the effort of soldering again since I'd have to remove the gauge needles and it was difficult to calibrate them once reassembled.
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