Russ Swift

Here’s our sad story. Left Maine in late Oct in our 2016 GMC Yukon XL Denali. Made it to PA for the night. Next morning, crossed into MD and the Yukon’s engine went bad, was able to get to a local dealer, after 2 hours & $500, they said the problem was inside the engine and might cost up to $5000 and might take several days if they didn’t have the necessary parts. In Sept we had just spent $3500 on the lifters being replaced. The two or us and the dog, no rental cars available until some time in Nov… They had an SLT, Denali and a Denali Premier on the lot. We bought the SLT with payments for 84 months and we were on our way to a hotel that evening. That’s #1. Made it safely to our kids place in SC the next day. After three days we left for FL. About an hour out we hit road debris on the left front (GMC 3 days old). Scraped the left front bumper/will be buffed out, and put a hole in the Assist Step and drivers door (going to dealer for door repair tomorrow). That’s #2. Arrived in FL and the A/C in the house went out. That’s #3. Auto insurance in FL is high. Don’t need a $2200 claim on my record and a policy increase next year. The Assist Step will have to wait. Three hits in a row, let’s hope that’s it for a while. Happy & Safe Hollidays to you and yours.

Got it, seen several like this looking for the best price. GMC going into the body shop tomorrow for hole in the door during the same road debris incident. TY.

Thanx. I can find a Step about 30% less than the dealers price. I agree, looks relatively straight-forward. Did you notice in the diagram the brackets, the step, and what looked like along strip of metal. Would that be the plastic strip along the outside of the step?

Brand new 2023 GMC Yukon XL SLT. Hit road debris and ended up with a hole in the drivers side stationary Assist Step. Can I replace the Step myself? Does it involve more than removing and replacing several bolts?

Just a guess, but check the wiring underneath to the camera and bumper sensors. I’ve read where these wires sometimes get too close to exhaust pipe, melt, and cause problems. Can you confirm source of smoke, from rear hatch door or from under the vehicle? Good Luck.

8

2016 GMC Yukon XL Denali, 103,000K. Transmission Heat Sensor seems to be working fine. Rough, delayed, hesitation, clunk with shift from 1st to 2nd. Doesn’t happen all the time, but enough to know there is something going on. Any suggestions/recommends welcomed.

1. Agree re dealers. 2. Go back to your body shop, or any body shop you know or trust, and ask them who they use to check/repair electronic issues, who’s their electronic go-to genius. 3. Then have the electronic specialist check it out. 4. I had to have the rooftop antenna replace to solve a problem with my system (2016 GMC Yukon XL Denali). Seems there was a water drain gap at the top end of the gasket that let water in vs let it out. Not sure when, but that design flaw has been changed now to the gap at the bottom end of the gasket. 5. Even if it’s not the antenna, find an electronics specialist to get a straight answer. Good Luck, Stay Safe

Had a possibly similar problem, required a transmission service and reprogramming of engine and transmission modules. Something about a trans service required every 45K miles. Good luck

https://www.autoselectonline.com/article/is-your-check-engine-light-on-what-does-that-really-mean

Sounds to me like you have a good justification not what you want. I think you have two issues to resolve: how easy is it to disconnect the power steps w/o causing any additional electrical problems? Second, are you willing to accept the cost of removal and new steps. My suggestion, if you found a good deal on the one you want (other than the power steps), buy it and address the steps later, maybe before any rust issues, or when they finally fail. I think I paid about $600 to have damaged fix step replaces. Good Luck.

Don’t know part #, but I can send you a list of GMC parts sources?

1. Check power source to running board. 2. Check function of drive motor, or what ever it is, that moves the board. 3. Find something different between working and non working board 4. Check for an electrical resistor or some other in line electric item. 5. Check fuzes? Can’t think of anything else, but it has to be something that is working on one side and not on the other, or something that controls both sides and is not working correctly. Just my 2 cents. Good Luck.

Sorry, above work cost $400