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Russ Swift

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About Russ Swift

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  1. Just a thought/suggestion: get yourself a cheap stethoscope and see if you can locate the source Or area of the noise when it happens and go from there. Good luck.
  2. Both rear shocks found shot, air bags not holding air, nothing to be seen; however, when truck was not level the rear shock air compressor would work continuously trying to fill the air bags to level the truck, until the truck was shut off. Had the truck been left on would have eventually burned out the compressor. Have a garage/mechanic you trust check them out (unless still under warranty). If interested I can tell you where I found OME replacements at the lowest, but still expensive, price. Good luck.
  3. I believe Park Assist is a single system. Front and rear sensors are part of the same system. Symbols are the three sets of lines that show how close you are to something when parking and change color the closer you get. The blind spot warning triangles are not part of the park assist I don’t think. For insurance it is a single interconnected system, again, I think. Good luck.
  4. Two issues I had and how they were resolved. 1. The transmission torque converter was slipping causing the entire vehicle to vibrate: Dealer did a transmission service/flush and reprogrammed the engine and transmission modules. Fixed the problem. Does it feel like you are driving over railroad tracks...that is how I’ve hear someone describe it. 2. Both rear shocks were shot, air bags did not hold air so the compressor would continue to try and adjust the shocks. Would have burned itself out if I didn’t have the rear shocks replaced...does not sound like your problem. One more thought, make a list of your symptoms (Any sounds, smoke), when they happen (speed, how long driving, temp, ect, ect), where you feel the vibration (Seat, Steering Wheel, ...trying to pinpoint where the problem is coming from. If at a slow speed have someone outside the vehicle to see if they see or hear anything. Good Luck.
  5. No idea about a “front camera”, but I’m guessing the front sensors are similsr to the rear sensors, radar or what ever. I know there is a camera on back. That said, I had a similar with the rear park assist and got a similar msg in the DIC. The body shop I use sent me to a local garage they use for electronic issues. The expert there check the wiring connects to the rear sensors and check a computer for codes, no codes, no visible issue with wiring, found sensors working properly. Put everything back together and said he couldn’t find a problem...but now rear park assist is working fine and no more DIC message. I think the sensors can initially be check with the vehicle running and in drive. If they are working you should be able to hear clicking from each sensor with a stethoscope. However, the front collision and lane assist might not be active below some low mph. Hopefully some smarter than I can offer advice before you have to go to the Stealer. Good Luck.
  6. Good info, thanx. Still happening. Have body shop apt next week for new running board. I’ll ask them to check, and I’ll check/feel the rear connections.
  7. Someone else on this site had a similar battery problem, turned out to be the starter motor and/or the connections to that motor. Also speculated it was the reserve power system, the system that gives you about 15 minutes of power after you turn off the key, that goes fully off when you open the door.
  8. Rear Park Assist is the dashes behind the vehicle in the DIC when you get close to something, along with triangles in the rear camera that indicate something behind you that change color the closer you get, along with the seat vibrations. Changed three fuses, no change. Will change the relay next, then have the wiring harness to each sensor checked, still think there is a short somewhere when the wires heat up. You can only hope.
  9. If not actually the starter, may have been connections to starter, which were all secured correctly and tight with the new starter. You can only hope. Good luck and thanx for the the updates. Still trying to figure out why my Rear Park Assist keeps going in and out. In the process of checking three fuses and one relay to see what happens. If it is on when I start up, it goes out after driving a short time. Makes me think something heats up and causes a short to the system. No rush to go to the Stealer/Dealer.
  10. Yes re the tail lights circuits. Lights due back tomorrow. Once installed I’ll start the process of changing out fuses.
  11. Check out this forum for a similar problem & comments posted by a Rick 2-3 days ago. Som good info and suggestions
  12. Or find a garage you trust that already has the tools and diagnostic equipment to do the work. I agree, dealer is last/least desired option. Ask this forum for garage recommendations in your area, then rely on your own experience with any new garage. Even a tow and checkup at a good local garage will be less than any work at a dealer
  13. Just a thought, if yours is like mine. One push on radio just mutes the radio. Radio is still on the 10-15 minutes after engine turned off. Need to press and hold to turn off radio. Not sure if will add any useful info. In my past a battery problem was found to be a bad ground someplace on the vehicle. I’ll be watching to see how you solve this. Good luck.
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