Russ Swift

Here’s our sad story. Left Maine in late Oct in our 2016 GMC Yukon XL Denali. Made it to PA for the night. Next morning, crossed into MD and the Yukon’s engine went bad, was able to get to a local dealer, after 2 hours & $500, they said the problem was inside the engine and might cost up to $5000 and might take several days if they didn’t have the necessary parts. In Sept we had just spent $3500 on the lifters being replaced. The two or us and the dog, no rental cars available until some time in Nov… They had an SLT, Denali and a Denali Premier on the lot. We bought the SLT with payments for 84 months and we were on our way to a hotel that evening. That’s #1. Made it safely to our kids place in SC the next day. After three days we left for FL. About an hour out we hit road debris on the left front (GMC 3 days old). Scraped the left front bumper/will be buffed out, and put a hole in the Assist Step and drivers door (going to dealer for door repair tomorrow). That’s #2. Arrived in FL and the A/C in the house went out. That’s #3. Auto insurance in FL is high. Don’t need a $2200 claim on my record and a policy increase next year. The Assist Step will have to wait. Three hits in a row, let’s hope that’s it for a while. Happy & Safe Hollidays to you and yours.

Got it, seen several like this looking for the best price. GMC going into the body shop tomorrow for hole in the door during the same road debris incident. TY.

Thanx. I can find a Step about 30% less than the dealers price. I agree, looks relatively straight-forward. Did you notice in the diagram the brackets, the step, and what looked like along strip of metal. Would that be the plastic strip along the outside of the step?

Brand new 2023 GMC Yukon XL SLT. Hit road debris and ended up with a hole in the drivers side stationary Assist Step. Can I replace the Step myself? Does it involve more than removing and replacing several bolts?

Just a guess, but check the wiring underneath to the camera and bumper sensors. I’ve read where these wires sometimes get too close to exhaust pipe, melt, and cause problems. Can you confirm source of smoke, from rear hatch door or from under the vehicle? Good Luck.

8

2016 GMC Yukon XL Denali, 103,000K. Transmission Heat Sensor seems to be working fine. Rough, delayed, hesitation, clunk with shift from 1st to 2nd. Doesn’t happen all the time, but enough to know there is something going on. Any suggestions/recommends welcomed.

1. Agree re dealers. 2. Go back to your body shop, or any body shop you know or trust, and ask them who they use to check/repair electronic issues, who’s their electronic go-to genius. 3. Then have the electronic specialist check it out. 4. I had to have the rooftop antenna replace to solve a problem with my system (2016 GMC Yukon XL Denali). Seems there was a water drain gap at the top end of the gasket that let water in vs let it out. Not sure when, but that design flaw has been changed now to the gap at the bottom end of the gasket. 5. Even if it’s not the antenna, find an electronics specialist to get a straight answer. Good Luck, Stay Safe

Had a possibly similar problem, required a transmission service and reprogramming of engine and transmission modules. Something about a trans service required every 45K miles. Good luck

https://www.autoselectonline.com/article/is-your-check-engine-light-on-what-does-that-really-mean

Sounds to me like you have a good justification not what you want. I think you have two issues to resolve: how easy is it to disconnect the power steps w/o causing any additional electrical problems? Second, are you willing to accept the cost of removal and new steps. My suggestion, if you found a good deal on the one you want (other than the power steps), buy it and address the steps later, maybe before any rust issues, or when they finally fail. I think I paid about $600 to have damaged fix step replaces. Good Luck.

Don’t know part #, but I can send you a list of GMC parts sources?

1. Check power source to running board. 2. Check function of drive motor, or what ever it is, that moves the board. 3. Find something different between working and non working board 4. Check for an electrical resistor or some other in line electric item. 5. Check fuzes? Can’t think of anything else, but it has to be something that is working on one side and not on the other, or something that controls both sides and is not working correctly. Just my 2 cents. Good Luck.

Sorry, above work cost $400

At app 86K my trans was skipping and bucking. Stealer did “reprogram engine and transmission control module” and “transmission service using kit# k6600”, and recommended trans service every 30K. Now at 94K starting to experience shift hesitation issues. Good Luck.

Does the truck have magnetic front shocks? Mine on the rear wend bad;. When not on level ground you could hear the air compressor trying to level the truck, but it went off when I turned the truck off. Sounded similar to what you describe. I have also hear what you are describing up front, but it does go off. Good luck.

Thanx for info, I’ll add Rock Auto to my list of OME parts suppliers.

Just a thought/suggestion: get yourself a cheap stethoscope and see if you can locate the source Or area of the noise when it happens and go from there. Good luck.

Both rear shocks found shot, air bags not holding air, nothing to be seen; however, when truck was not level the rear shock air compressor would work continuously trying to fill the air bags to level the truck, until the truck was shut off. Had the truck been left on would have eventually burned out the compressor. Have a garage/mechanic you trust check them out (unless still under warranty). If interested I can tell you where I found OME replacements at the lowest, but still expensive, price. Good luck.

I believe Park Assist is a single system. Front and rear sensors are part of the same system. Symbols are the three sets of lines that show how close you are to something when parking and change color the closer you get. The blind spot warning triangles are not part of the park assist I don’t think. For insurance it is a single interconnected system, again, I think. Good luck.

Two issues I had and how they were resolved. 1. The transmission torque converter was slipping causing the entire vehicle to vibrate: Dealer did a transmission service/flush and reprogrammed the engine and transmission modules. Fixed the problem. Does it feel like you are driving over railroad tracks...that is how I’ve hear someone describe it. 2. Both rear shocks were shot, air bags did not hold air so the compressor would continue to try and adjust the shocks. Would have burned itself out if I didn’t have the rear shocks replaced...does not sound like your problem. One more thought, make a list of your symptoms (Any sounds, smoke), when they happen (speed, how long driving, temp, ect, ect), where you feel the vibration (Seat, Steering Wheel, ...trying to pinpoint where the problem is coming from. If at a slow speed have someone outside the vehicle to see if they see or hear anything. Good Luck.

No idea about a “front camera”, but I’m guessing the front sensors are similsr to the rear sensors, radar or what ever. I know there is a camera on back. That said, I had a similar with the rear park assist and got a similar msg in the DIC. The body shop I use sent me to a local garage they use for electronic issues. The expert there check the wiring connects to the rear sensors and check a computer for codes, no codes, no visible issue with wiring, found sensors working properly. Put everything back together and said he couldn’t find a problem...but now rear park assist is working fine and no more DIC message. I think the sensors can initially be check with the vehicle running and in drive. If they are working you should be able to hear clicking from each sensor with a stethoscope. However, the front collision and lane assist might not be active below some low mph. Hopefully some smarter than I can offer advice before you have to go to the Stealer. Good Luck.

Good info, thanx. Still happening. Have body shop apt next week for new running board. I’ll ask them to check, and I’ll check/feel the rear connections.

Someone else on this site had a similar battery problem, turned out to be the starter motor and/or the connections to that motor. Also speculated it was the reserve power system, the system that gives you about 15 minutes of power after you turn off the key, that goes fully off when you open the door.