The outer CV and boot on both sides. I think it’s luck of the draw.. a friend had the 2.5” lift also and had no axle issues... only difference is his trucks a pavement princess not that I off-road mine but I do drive it on the beach and now that I think of it that’s when my axle issues started.
Definitely not an installation error, think it was just to much angle at 2.5” for the axles. When I replaced the axles I used axles from a trailboss. Axles measure the same length but the inner tulips was about 1.5” longer.
Hi, I had the 2.5” motofab leveling kit on my Silverado crew cab. I put about 2K miles on the truck with that leveling kit before I killed the front axles. I removed the kit and went down to a 2” motofab kit and replaced the axles. Have been very happy so far. I also raised the rear 1” as I tow a bit.
I installed my compustar myself, only tapped the parking light wire as well. My opinion is the Tharness makes it alittle harder for the thieves to delete the alarm. Hide the alarm brain well and the harnesses all look the same, where as when an alarm is hard wired you can see the points to just rip the wire off.
I actually ended up changing the spacer out today to a 2” top Mount spacer. With the truck up on the lift and closer inspection it looks like at certain angles the pinch on the Clamp for the cv boot would rub the bottom of the strut mount with the 2.5” spaced down there. I know it’s only a half inch difference but the axles and ball joints look happier now.
Hi, New to the forums but have been a lurking for quite some time. Today i ran into my first real issue with my truck. I have a 19 1500 custom with a motofab 2.5" level kit. Put aprox 1,000 miles on the truck since the install and now today as i changed my oil i found grease coming from both front axles. I inspected the axle boots and cant find any tears, it looks like its leaking past the clamp on each axle. Has anyone else had this problem? Would there be any advantage to replacing the axles with trailboss axles to compensate for the lift? Thanks for any advise that could be given.
I left the factory dash speakers and didn’t replace them. Only crappy part doing it the way I did was the gain for the rear channels changes all the door speakers. A million different ways it could be done. I split all my speakers down next to the glove box.
Toolman- As far as I know from all the research I did with numerous company’s is just using a line our converter to run a 5 channel amp will not sound to good because of the bass roll off and the frequency changes that occur around half volume. Bass roll off comes from the head unit. GM did that to protect the speakers from blowing at higher volumes. I was going to go your route but changed my mind last second and did away with the EQ. The lc7i works great for me because it restores the bass and frequencies, the. Again all depends on the overall sound your expecting from your truck. Not saying your doing it wrong, but if you do it half assed expect half assed sound. With a lc7i and amp correctly tuned you can get very clear sound out of it. My set up is the lc7i with a 5 channel Infiniti Kappa amp. For bass I am running the kicker 12” comprt truck box with passive radiator. While I’m not shaking any windows my over stereo is very clear with any genre I play.
They way I did it was, I bridges my front and rear door speakers and put that on two channels. I then put the two dash speakers on two channels to allow me gain control for the chimes. I used a LC7i because of the bass roll off around half volume.
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