blamkin86

Oh yeah, no mods. Just some lights wired to the upfitter switches, and a dual ViAir compressor on the snowplow fusible link. Fox shocks if that matters -but no other mods, even replaced the stock tires with the same goodyears.

Hi all, I have a 2020 Sierra HD AT4 that I really like. It has a fourwheel camper on it; we drive all over utah back country camping and having a great time offroading as much as this thing can do. Unfortunately, for the second time in about 8 months, I've gotten the dreaded limp mode warning for "emissions repair." First time, long story short; turned out to be the def tank. Had to leave the truck in Grand Junction at the GMC dealer - they were really good to us, but it did take 3+ weeks to get the truck back, plus a rental car, plus a return trip, etc etc. GMC paid for the rental car, and even gave us the "CBGC" plan which pays for 10 future oil changes and a couple other minor things. This time, same deal as before. I was on a long weekend trip. Stopped in Leadville CO for a burger. Got back in, and got the "170 miles to limp mode" message. I dropped the truck at the local dealer this time (O'Meara) and they are way backed up and may not get to me for a week or two. They did scan the codes, the MAF and intake air temp sensors are either bad, or the wiring to them is. The parts, to me any way, appear to be under warranty. So, My issue is, we go offroad a lot. I can't guarantee I'll be within 170 miles of a dealer all the time. I really want to keep this truck - not only do I love how it tows and goes offroad (for a 3500), but I'm within a month or two of having it paid off. I am wondering if any of the programmers out there would let me repair my truck and reset these non-trivial codes so I can keep going and fix stuff like this on my own time? I certainly have the skills to fix either a wiring harness or plunk in a couple sensors under the hood. I read the Banks iDash can reset some codes, even do a forced regen. But if the iDash can't reset this type of code for me, it's not really worth it. I could trade this thing in on a newer one, but, I don't really want to pass this problem onto someone else. I am frustrated of course; only 49k miles on this one. I've also added a bunch of offroad lights and would probably have to replace both bumpers before trade in if I want to keep the lights for the next truck. Love to hear any advice. Calling GMC, again. Wish me luck.

I'm wondering if it covers the fuel filter, specifically. I know it covers Diesel fuel filter, air filter, etc. I have the 60 month, 10 visit "premium" plan. Thanks in advance.

My MPG were also worse after the recall. As a data point, I later had a DEF tank replaced under warranty, and now the mileage seems to be back where it was.

OK I buttoned it up, cleared the code and drove around the block. The gauges say 185* for coolant temp. And the reduced power and check ending light are cleared on the dash. But the reader still says P111E and it does feel a little down on power. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Afternoon all - I have not been on here for quite some time (like a year) but could use a boost. This morning, I added some more Baja lights to my 3500HD AT4. I used the Upfitter switches and didn't really hack into anything. I did use a fuse splitter to trigger the lights with the high beams. I had the grill off for the install. When I got it all done and back together, I got a P111E sensor error and the dreaded "Reduced Engine Power" message. This is something I've just done, but I have no idea where to start looking. Any idea where the coolant or ambient temp sensors are? All of my work was either behing the grill, or in the fusebox in front of the brake booster, or in the LF Fender area. I didn't hack any wires, I thought I did a good job. Obviously I pullled too hard on something and there's a ground or sensor I've pulled loose. Help!

whoops wrong forum!

Congrats everyone on getting through this install. Also congrats on not dropping tools on your batteries and burning your trucks to the ground! Really nice to see so many of you using the directions I typed in here. My truck is just over a year old now; I've got 17K miles from driving from colorado to Arizona, Utah, Kansas several times and even towing to Wisconsin for the SCCA runoffs last fall. I wound up populating my switches with 1) 14 (!!) rock lights all around the perimeter. My wife made fun of me until the first time we went camping, and now we use them all the time. 2) Baja Designs Squadron Pros in switches 2 and 3 - the latter I have outside on the base of the a-pillar for ditch lights. Same deal as above 3) Switch #4 is to a pair of Viair 450C compressors, in the bed below the front of the camper. That was also a crazy project - and I'm not done, I have discovered I really need a tank for that thing. I went to use #5 for something, but I just couldn't let myself drill a hole in the third brake light housing then run a wire to who-knows-what. Someone on here had the good idea of just following the lead from the switch and running another wire out the firewall. If I ever need a 5th thing that's what I'll do. Congrats all - love to see the instructions in use and the stuff you've added to your trucks. Happy motoring!

Hi all - does anyone know if this is possible? i have a camper on my truck. I want to use the bed AC outlet to power my camper fridge. It works great. Unfortunately I have to remember to press the button on the console. I am prone to forgetting so I’m wondering if the default can be changed in Truck startup? in other words, is it possible to program the truck so when I start it, the bed AC comes on? I’m aware it’s based on the alternators running.

I have a popup camper on my truck - I’ve been wanting to relocate that rear view mirror camera for a couple months. Makes total sense that you’d get a big blind spot by moving it backwards like that. maybe I won’t bother. I did move the tailgate camera to the back of the camper. That was a really great idea. Unfortunately there’s no way to get that signal to the rear view without significant work behind the dash. Specifically you’d have to get that camera wired directly to the rear view - plus none of the cameras work on the dash if one is disconnected so you’d have to replace the one you removed. Sounds like a lot of work. Thanks for posting

That may have been the worst part. The lights I bought included a "Base" in case you wanted to mount them on a rollbar. I basically cut that base on an angle, so the lights would be canted out 45 degrees. I'll post some pix tonight. There just isn't a great place on the front of the truck. I thought about lower under the spoiler, but I'm sure they'd just get wiped off there by some rock. They're basically inside the tow hooks. If you look, you'll see what looks like two parallel lines running straight up, just to the inside of the tow hooks. I mounted them just above those lines - you'll see it. I'll post some pix later. Thanks!

Finally got around to finishing this last night. No less than 14 of these little buggers scattered around the land barge. I took the time to redo some of the wiring that I wasn't happy with... I swapped out plain-old Harbor Freight butt connectors for those fancy ones that you heat up with a torch that seal out water. Really pleased with how this turned out. Total overkill but imagine pulling up to a BLM campsite at 10pm in Utah and unloading with those. Done.

We’ve seen white and blue on this thread. Black is kinda pointless. wonder if we’ll see a red one.

Thanks! I need to do the foot wells. That looks really cool.

Switch #2: Combo offroad and driving lights. Baja Designs Squadron Pro: https://www.bajadesigns.com/products/squadron-pro-pair-driving-combo-led.asp They're 10% off with free shipping right now. I wanted something smaller, not a big light bar. I've been disappointed in those in the past - really all I need is some lower-speed light for going 25-45 offroad. They were easy to wire - bought the kit with the harness, and it literally all snapped together. Found a ground right by the driver's battery and ran the rest of the wire through the firewall like I did for the rock lights. The pain was getting a wrench behind the bumper. Had to run a hand between the grill slats and hold the wrench upside down with the nut on it - then try and move that around until it matched up the hole I drilled, then thread in the bolt, then try and keep it all from falling down while tightening it. The bumper swallowed one 14mm socket- hopefully that'll fall out on some backroad and not damage anything. Hoping these are all they're supposed to be.

Very welcome! Very interesting on the driver side battery fuse. In my case, there's a completely empty post there, not another fuse. I in fact used that spot and added a relay and hard-wired in my camper to that spot. So my AT is different than yours!

That's cold white. They were out of all the other colors! I think it matches the stock LEDs pretty good - not perfect but it's not like one looks yellow vs the other. Wiring: Upffitter switch #1 to 12 ga wire. Back out normal place thru firewall. Down to driver's frame rail and all the way to the back. Zip tied to stock wiring. Near the Bed Step, I scotch-lok'd in another 12ga wire across the fuel tank then across the top of the heat shield to the other side. For grounds, there's a fantastic factory ground right above the spare tire to the driver's side. From there, each light is just either crimped or scotch-lok'd to the 12ga wire. Oh there's no good grounds on the sides, I used a bolt under the bed because it wasn't painted on the underside.

Thanks all yeah I just need to find the right place on the front. Under the bumper looks great but I don’t think I can get a wrench on the back side. I’ll post again when I get it done.

....Or., if you took out the air box, there's a hole between it and the fender - I wonder if it would squeeze thru there?

Hmm.... I wonder how hard it is to get that fender off there... (only partially kidding.)

Had anyone looked at the area between the (diesel) air filter and passenger fender??? Looks like if you move the horns, there may be enough room there. If so, that seems like a great place to mount this ARB compressor. I’ll go look at the dimensions.

As you may have seen in other pix, my 3500 AT4 carries a Four Wheel camper. My wife and I head to Utah from the Denver area many many times a year. We usually arrive after dark and it’s nice to have some light as we’re moving from the cab to the camper. Also nice to socialize for a bit before we head in for the night. So, very first on my list was some loading lights. Some people call these “rock lights” but they generally have different intentions than we do. Some people use rock lights to get over rocks at night - others have fancy colors that change while they play their disco music white boy. For me, they needed to be not dim, but also not super bright nor very high of the ground like a ditch light or work light might be mounted. After a lot of research, I bought two sets of these: https://www.online-led-store.com/6pc-lamphus-stardust-sdrl14-led-off-road-rock-light-orzledwkl1050-xx-x6 Actually I bought one set but they were so perfect for what I was doing, I bought another set! Currently, I’ve mounted and wired 10 of these things, all to switch #1 I started with four across the bottom of the back bumper. Then I added one to each bed step. When the second order arrived, I added one to each side of the rear bumper (also on the bottom) then I added one to the center bottom of each running board. This leaves me with two left over. I wanted to add them to the bottom of the front bumper, but that looks like a royal pain. So I’m either going to put them on the bottom of the air dam (yeah those’ll get scraped off at some point) or maybe the front of the side step. My wife says it’s stupid to add them to the front - but she’ll be happy if she ever needs them. - you married guys know the drill on that one. Anyway - let me know what you think! Dumb? Awesome?

Awesome thanks for the great update. I wonder what wire I have going across the firewall with the plastic holders on it...Also good idea on removing the hood release deal. I didn't see an obvious way to do it, although I did see the screw sticking out the back side. I guess pulling my cable out of the firewall was just dumb luck. It REALLY doesn't want to go back in, either. And there's now at least two of us with the kit installed. I am going to post some pix this weekend of my "loading lights" I added to the rr bumper and side step. Two screws. Not sure why they're not included. I don't mind having mine missing so I think I'm going to leave it. I hate rattles tho, so if anything starts up I'll be all over it. Great work. Who's next?

Looks like a good choice. I permanently carry a huge ice fishing tent in front of the rear seats so that spot is out for me. I need the storage. now I’m worried about water because I definitely go through shallow creek and river crossings several times a year.

I’ve got one more light project before I get to the air compressor. I’m wanting the dual ARB you have but I need to be prudent with money so I don’t know what I’m getting yet. I am actually considering mounting it on the drivers side under the driver or passenger. There’s a lot of area behind the factory steps that looks like it’d easily swallow up the compressor. I’m thinking there for a few reasons: 1 I want to have a shorter battery run and I can run 8 gauge to there pretty easily. I have the upfitter switches so I’d start from the passenger battery and go up and over the firewall. That also means a heavy duty relay of some sort. Haven’t researched it yet. 2 the passenger side has too many opportunities for the exhaust to interfere. I’m planning on running the output fitting to the area right next to the trailer plug. A run of the high pressure hose from the drivers side would be pretty short. 3 if/when I add a tank there’s also plenty of room in the same area. these are my very preliminary thoughts. I found that area while I was under there installing rock lights. Looks like a natural fit to me.