I was very torn on buying this or building my system. I finally decided that my time was worth more than the cost of this kit. I have the power wire, sub, and amp from my last pickup, so I would have only needed to buy the loop back harness and a signal processor and an amp for the door speakers then build a sub box. I just didn't want to dedicate the time and energy into finding the components and putting it all together. Overall, I'm happy with the upgrade, but $1,000 can go a long ways into building a nicer system, especially if you already have some pieces like I do. Right now, I'm happy enough that I don't see an immediate need to replace the door speakers, but I might think about it in the future.
I upgraded my system last week and I’m happy overall with the upgrade over stock. I found that tweaking the 3 band eq on the head unit is necessary for best performance. The 5 band eq on the Kicker Flex Tune app is more for fine tuning, and I don’t think it has much if any effect on the subwoofer. Turning up the bass on the 3 band eq had a big effect on the sub’s performance. I had to flip switches on the amp to 1-5 up, 6 down since the settings from the factory suck bad. It’s decent for the cost, but I know I have enough skills to run my own power wires and connect a wiring harness adapter to do a better job for less. So anyways, I photographed the install in my 2019 double cab. Check out this link for the photo album. There’s descriptions under each picture. I’ll try to answer any questions you might have. https://imgur.com/a/K86b8MT
I imagine it would fit fine as the instructions to remove the seat back are the same for all models of crew cab and double cab. Might get expensive with all the parts: foam, cloth/leather, doors and hinges.
Well, at first I was disappointed. I switched the amp switches to 1-5 up, 6 down and it got much better, but not great. The Kicker FlexTune app is ok for fine tuning but the eq on the head unit has a bigger impact on the sound. Once I turned that up a little from zero, I’m actually happy with it. I spent just under $1,000 for the sub and speaker amp, and I could definitely do all that plus upgrade the speakers doing it myself with aftermarket gear. The convenience of a factory plug and play setup is nice, but the performance could be better for the price or the price could be lower for the performance. If I was less capable, it would be completely worth the cost, but I can run my own power wire and wiring harness adapter, so I think I could have done better with the $1,000
Seems a few people here don't know the difference between gm-trucks.com (this site) and the GM's official accessory sites. The store here seems to have free shipping without requiring any codes. I added some random items to my cart and shipping was free.
I thought I saw that drilling is required for the factory mudflap upgrade. That pushed me to get the weathertech no-drill mudflaps. Tip for installing the paint protection film under the mud flap is to hold it up as tight as you can, then masking tape 1/4” off the mudflap. Stick the film about 1/8” off the tape. Go in with a plan to make both sides the exact same, if you care. oh, this is for a Chevy. Of course they’re not the same.
I've had it about a month and I am in love with the color. I 'accidentally' bought steps with too much drop, so I think I'll have to get a lift kit now. I'm thinking 3" - 4" is the most I can go while staying with factory tires (285/60-20). Dealer charges over $300 for a set of painted mirror covers, so I'm looking for other options. Has anyone found a vinyl or plastidip that matches these trucks well? I have to get the leaky rear window fixed, then I'm going to begin debadging the fenders and tail gate.
I have a homelink roof console. I can upload pics separately if you need full resolution details.
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Thanks for the guide, that's going to help me a lot when I get around to installing my cams. Just one question, have you gotten any interference with your keyless entry system? I have a Viofo A129 Pro dual cam system. On my 2008, I ran the rear camera cable across the middle of the headliner with a huge coil of excess wire and had terrible interference. I practically lost the ability to extend my remote start for a second cycle. So is anyone experiencing interference issues? I probably have a long enough cable to route it to the floor, but I'd rather be lazy and cross the ceiling instead.
I got the Westin HDX. I agree there's not very many options out there for the double cabs. And lots of the crew cab options look like they'd work fine on a double cab if they had the correct mounting points. It wouldn't be difficult for a company to add a couple bolt holes and a couple plugs so you can plug the holes you don't need.
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