DanY

From my old Program Manager (Ford nut): Lockwashers

Installed a storage box from a 99 Tahoe/Suburban. I bought it off of Ebay. It took a couple of new holes in the bottom of the box to mount it.

The truck is not like a smartphone. It comes with the apps that GM installs and you cannot install other apps onto the truck. Where would you get new apps from? The truck does not run Android or IOS operating systems like a phone does.

On one of the threads, someone had the bright idea to cut a sheet of thin plastic the size of the filter and then slid this under the filter before they removed it. All of the crap on top of the filter then fell onto the plastic instead of down into the fan. I'm going to try this when it comes time to change my filter again.

Not sure if you are aware or not, but GM doesn't want you re-using the axle U-bolts and nuts. Something about deforming the threads to help lock the nuts on. I had mine in for the dreaded rear clunk and the TSB says to replace the U-bolts and nuts once removed.

My 2015 High Country with 6.2L already had the studs installed from the factory. I just needed the cover and emblem.

When doing the TSB for rear end clunk on my truck, the dealer replaced both the U-bolts and nuts. I have the part numbers if anyone needs them. BTW, this did not fix my clunk, which seems to be getting better as the weather warms up. It seems that lifting the truck, ie unloading the springs, tends to help with the clunk.

I've had the rear end clunk for the last couple of months. Started when it got cold but still did it on days when it warmed to 60 degrees. Mostly a single or double clunk when backing out of the driveway or pulling out from a stop with the wheels turned sharp right. I really think it's the right spring binding and unloading with a clunk. I took it in for state inspection a couple of weeks back and had the dealer look for the source. They heard it but couldn't figure out where it was coming from. It went back in last week for them to try to find it and they did not hear the noise that day. They found the TSB that told them to torque all the spring fasteners and had to order new shackle nuts. Back in today to install the shackle nuts. They called an hour after I dropped it off and said that there is an aftermarket rear sway bar installed and spring clamps installed. Can they disconnect them to check if these are making the noise? Funny it's the third time they have had the truck and they finally found the sway bar and clamps. Did they even look underneath it on the first two visits? Now I'm waiting for the call that with the aftermarket parts installed, they cannot fix the problem under warranty.

Yep. That's why I run the bolt in before the install to tap the holes. They are a bit tough cranking them in, also tend to get a bit warm from the friction. Assembly line uses power tools to drive them.

These are GM bolts that are tapered a bit. They use them on a lot of attachments to the frame without having to tap the holes. The tapered tip allows the threads to bite when you start turning it in. These bolts are 10mm x 1.5 thread. You can use regular bolts if you tap the holes with a tap and die set. The GM part number for these bolts is 11518341. They are listed as M10x1.5x25. Retail for 4 is $37.40 with tax.

You do have to install the rear 2 self tapping bolts for the front plate. There are 2 holes in the front a-arm cross member. They are sort of punched inward, not a simple drill hole, this gives them some depth for the threads to cut into. From what people here say, they are present on the cross member for the 2014-2016 models. If you want to convince yourself, take 10 minutes and pull off the plastic splash guard. You will see the holes directly in front of where the 2 steel brackets bolt to the front a-arm cross member.

I haven't decided yet. I'll probably keep it for now. Now the 10 leftover self tapping bolts may be another story. I'll keep 4 for the transfer case plate. I paid the dealer over $8 a bolt when I bought my original transfer case plate.

The black steel plate goes under the transfer case with 4 self tapping bolts. The other 2 plates are aluminum. Check my post back on page 3 for the eBay link to get the kit for $183 shipped.

Finished the install. Should take only 15-20 minutes. You need a 10mm socket and 15mm socket. Remove the plastic guard by removing the 2 15mm bolts from the radiator support. Then remove the 4 10mm bolts from under the engine. Remove the 2 brackets by removing the 4 15mm bolts from the front and rear A-frame crossmembers. Install the rear skid plate using the same 4 15mm bolts in the same position as the brackets. There are 2 holes in the front crossmember just in front of the new rear plate that need tapped with 2 of the new self-tapping bolts. Then install the front plate using these 2 new holes and the 2 existing holes in the radiator support. I'm adding the link to my new imgur.com album, hopefully your can see them. Sorry about the crappy installed pics. Can't get a good shot without the truck being on a lift. http://imgur.com/a/YzATY

Just a little progress. Truck made it in the garage and is up on the 3" corvette pre-jack ramps. Letting it drip off for a while. I measured the aluminum plates, 0.163" each. The aluminum plates have part numbers stamped on them. Front. 23135960 Rear 23135959 Did a quick check at gmpartdirect.com. Plates are listed at $70.56 each. Shipping to PA for both plates is $20.64.