If you open the plastic cover on the positive battery cable, there is a distribution block with a bunch of studs and nuts to connect to battery +12V. On the ground side there is only the one nut on the battery cable clamp itself. I hooked a charger quick connect to this ground and used other bolts around the engine compartment and radiator support for other connections (HID ballasts, etc)
Same problem with the factory lights. Need to be able to turn them on in the bed. I added a rechargeable single light from Extang that mounts on the bottom center of the bed cover back toward the tailgate. Just reach in and push the button to turn on the light. When it needs recharged you just remove it from the bracket and plug into the cigarette lighter. One problem is that you can't slam close or let drop the last cover panel or it will drop out of the bracket. https://extang.com/e-light-truck-bed-light
I used ratcheting cargo bars in the past, probably 15+ years ago. I had a problem where the cheap metal in the ratchet mechanism deformed either the mating surface or the release lever. After that the only way to release the ratchet was to use a large screwdriver and start prying. Very annoying. Nothing a little better metallurgy would not have fixed, but made in China cheapness won out. When I got my 2003 Silverado SS I found a cargo bar with a hydraulic ram pump to extend it the last several inches. Pretty pricey but works great. Also has lifetime warranty. I now own 2 of them, one of which is 15 years old. https://saveaload.com/product-category/sl-10-series-light-duty-load-bar/
One big plus for separate ballasts are the bulbs themselves are cheap compared to a D5S bulb/ballast. Bulbs do have a finite life span. My Morimoto 35W HID kit just lost a bulb at 3.5 years. Of course in the 2015 with the daytime running lights turning on the ballast relay, my low beams are on all the time the truck is running.
I just had my 15 High Country 6.2L 8-speed to the dealer yesterday for the torque convertor shutter. It just started at a bit under 13K mile. They did the flush procedure and that seems to have fixed it for now. I was really confused what the fluid flush accomplished but I read in another topic that the initial wear of the transmission clutch packs is sending clutch material into the torque convertor and gumming it up. They stated that it looks like fine black sludge if you tear apart the transmission. This makes sense why to do the flush. The TSB states to flush the cooler lines and then drop the pan and drain the fluid. This will get most of the fluid out except for the torque convertor. As far as I know there is no way to flush a torque convertor. That is why they do multiple fill, run, and drains in the TSB. This is the only thing to me that makes sense. If the flush doesn't fix the problem, then they replace the torque convertor.
Also another vote for these. One thing. Do you have all the GM brackets and plates needed to hang these? Normally you remove the entire mounted assembly and swap out foglight and replace the assembly back in the bumper. With a new bumper I'm not sure you have the inside bumper brackets to hold the fog lights.
If you can afford it, I highly recommend Blizzak tires in the stock size for winter. I have a set of Blizzaks on my original High Country wheels and they work great. Of course this means a set of winter only wheels or dismounting the tires every year. I ended up buying a set of 22" Rally Edition wheels for my summer tires. One down side with the Blizzaks is that they are very soft and will get eaten up quickly when the temps go up into the 50s. I also had good luck with Pirelli Scorpion all seasons for winter tires on my 2003 Silverado SS AWD. According to Tire Rack they had a snow rating almost as good as the Blizzaks but were a good all season tire.
On one of the threads, someone had the bright idea to cut a sheet of thin plastic the size of the filter and then slid this under the filter before they removed it. All of the crap on top of the filter then fell onto the plastic instead of down into the fan. I'm going to try this when it comes time to change my filter again.
Yes and no. It will not fit stock. You need to modify the sway bar drivers side frame mount. You need to drill 2 more holes in the frame mount so you can install it rotated 180 degrees. This allows you to shift the sway bar to the passenger side so the drivers side end link clears the exit pipe on that side. I have a PM from thetruck454 which describes this and included some pics. Unfortunately the pics are now gone due to the Photobucket 3rd party sharing issues that just started. I'll try to see if thetruck454 can email me the pics again. The rear swaybar makes a huge difference and would not give it up just for a better sounding exhaust.
If by chance you ever want to install a Hellwig rear sway bar, you will need to get the GM Borla with the dual rear exit pipes. On the dual pipes out the right side one of the two tailpipes out of the muffler needs to route exactly where the swaybar end link is located. I made the mistake and needed to return my dual side exit for a dual rear exit. Also remember that you need to buy tips for the GM Borla which run a couple hundred bucks or so.
I thought that GM trucks without the factory installed brake controller came with a wiring harness to hook up a GM accessory brake controller. A couple of years back people were asking about a bagged wiring harness that they found in the glove box of their new truck.
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