If you have nothing else in that area you shouldn't have any issues. One of my brothers has an 1100 watt kicker amp in that compartment in his tahoe which is even smaller and he has not had any overheating issues. The nice thing about it is like I said there is a channel on each side and in between the seat backs and itself for running wires over to the factory amp for signal on the left side behind that vented panel you see in the picture. If you were really wanting to go hardcore you could probably take a router and route in some small venting for air release but it is not air tight so air is moving in and out of it already. What is the setup you are doing? Amp brand and size? Sub brand and size? Box set-up?
There are a few of us who have done it. Do you have the lower deck cargo storage compartment? There is a channel that you can run wiring over to a converter depending on what version of Bose you have. Let us know if you have any questions. Three of us for sure have done it.
rxnotec replied to rxnotec's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra ModsParts list is one post above yours. But I plastidip painted the center part to make it a black emblem.
This is the exact bulb I used for the yellow fogs. Yellow Fogs
It's commonly thought to be the sunglasses holder but some of these are mounted tighter than others based on quality control. I was unfortunately on the receiving end of bad quality control so I had to snug it up a little. Electrical tape has been a trick of the car audio world for a long time to help kill plastic on plastic or plastic on mettle rattle sounds. It only became apparent with the additional of my 10" sub to the Bose system. Something the Bose system needed.
Many people have upgraded the bass in their newer model Chevs/GMC/Caddys and have found that with that comes some new vibrations and rattles associated. Below is a run down how to solve one of those problem areas which is the homelink buttons. Problem: Homelink buttons rattle/buzz/vibrate with bass of stereo Vehicles application: Any with homelink buttons (example vehicle shown is a 2018 Suburban) Test: Turn it up (to 11 if you have to) and listen to your homelink buttons, or if you just lightly touch on them and you feel them very loose and not sturdy, odds are that is a source of one of your new rattles. Solution: Electrical tape and some minor disassembly of the overhead console and homelink buttons. Process: Step 1: Test it to see if you have the issue. I added a 10" sub in the back that now vibrated the homelink buttons on certain frequencies, very annoying. It also did the window switch buttons but that is a different fix although very similar. Tap on the buttons lightly, if they are wobbly and loose then you probably do or will have this problem, or turn the volume up with your favorite bass track and listen to the buttons vibrate. Example Image of this part on 2018: Step 2 (VIDEO): Disassemble the control unit. Here is a great little video on a 2015 Tahoe that is identical procedure to get the panel out that holds the homelink. Video Link: Overhead homelink removal Remember you will need to disconnect plugs before the cover panel will actually come out and DO NOT just pull down hard on the entire overhead console center. There are two screws (phillips on the 2018) retaining the full overhead piece in. Just open the sunglasses holder if you have it and we only need to take down the middle cover plate to perform this fix. Step 3: With the piece out on a workbench you can now disassemble the homelink buttons using a torx bit screw driver. It is very small and there are two screws holding the homelink into the cover/trim plate. Step 4: Is to take any decent vinyl electric tape/felt tape/flocking tape and add it to the trim plate like the below. You can trim the excess if you want to. The goal is to make sure you cover the bulk of the perimeter where the buttons themselves will rest against the cover/trim plate. The addition of two layers of Vinyl electric tape cured the problem I was experiencing. This additional thickness added pressure to the buttons mount tab itself which created a more snug and tight fit, that also made the buttons more rigid in the mount. Step 4: Reassemble the homelink to the cover plate, and then put everything back together in reverse order and you should now be vibration noise free at the home link button spot on your overhead console. Make sure to reconnect all plugs and test function before final pressing of the control plate back into the overhead console. Any questions let me know. I only had electrical tape to perform this task. I have some felt tape and flocking tape on order to do more vibration and rattle killing with the addition of the sub. Below is the two versions of tape I ordered that I will also have on hand other than black vinyl electric tape on this quest for vibration and rattle free music listening. J.V. Converting FLOCK-1/BLK05833 JVCC FLOCK-1 Flocking Tape: 1/2" x 25 ft., black J.V. Converting FELT-06/BLK15 JVCC FELT-06 Polyester Felt Tape: 1" x 15 ft., black
Do not do the above toothpick. The high odds are that you need to take the cover panel off, flip the switch panel cover over and take the switch control box out. Then line the underside of the cover plate with electrical tape (vinyl version) and then reclip the switch control box back into the cover plate. This is where the rattle actually is coming from, not the switches themselves. I can do pictures. I will have some up for the homelink buttons vibration issue soon as well.
I should have thought of that. I always say I want to order mine every time I get a new vehicle but they always have something near spot on to what I would order anyways. Looks solid. I see they changed the premier badge as well. Will be interesting to see what changes are ahead for the new version. They probably did throw the 6.2L in just to help sell more of them in prep for the next gen.
No resistors needed. I am a little mad they decided to offer the 6.2 this model year. Actually rather annoyed cause I would have done that version.
It is 3M Scotchcal film. I got it through Fastsigns here in MN. If you have a graphics or banner shop that does vinyl near you, you could go there and ask to see the swatch for that product. The silver has a little bit of a glitter look to it but it doesn't show when laid because it is semi transparent. I will try to get the color when I get back to the store.
I'll find out exactly what it is. What I used was a semi-transparent silver that was as close as I could find and due to the distance between the pieces you would never know they are not identical in color. I'm still on the hunt for specific color match where I actually might end up pulling them pieces and actually painting and clear coating them myself too.
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