BrizzoDaIzzo

I’m trying to order a fully assembled 6L 80 transmission from GM. When I go to the website and put in my Vin number, it list all the individual transmission parts. Don’t really want to build one. Looking to get a crate new or refurbished OEM transmission from Chevrolet. Anyone know what I’m doing wrong because it won’t come up in the search on the parts category.

When my truck is on and running my air filter life percentage says 0%. However, when my keys are just an accessory mode, with the engine off, it says 30% air filter life left. What am I supposed to do with that information?

According to Amsoil , this product contains solvents, oil, and ethanol. This will destroy the wax coating. Section 3 of This data sheet

2019 Silverado with 13,000 miles (driveway queen) just outside of warranty. I have some spots under the frame where the GM wax coating has started to peel and exposed metal is showing surface rust. Mainly from vehicle lifts, jacks, and random brush. I'm wanting to touch up the bare spots per GM’s TSB Here GM’s procedure is to…”prep the metal surface using *Lloyd’s Pure PrepTM Metal Surface Preparation P/N 25418, then topcoat with both *Lloyds Kryptonite Metal Treatment P/N 36502 Life Long Rust Protection and *Daubert Non-Rust® P/N X-121B One Coat Rust Preventative Coating. The issue is that I can source the Daubert coating (at exuberant prices) , but none of the LLoyds surface prep or metal treatment can be sourced. I also know that no petroleum based products or solvent-based product should be used on this wax as it causes further problems by deteriorating the wax from the factory. that being said I have been looking for water-based (non-solvent) substitutes for the Lloyd’s products that I cannot locate or source. I have found a water base substitute for the surface prep from Por15 Here . But I cannot find a substitute for Lloyd’s kryptonite Metal treatment that is non-solvent based. just wondering what you guys use as a substitute now. Thinking about using an enamel based paint. No oils or solvents. Thinking that This might fit the bill. Wondering what your all’s thoughts on this might be. my plan right now is to scrape away the rust with a wire brush, clean the surface with the Por15 metal prep, spray with the enamel based paint primer from krylon, then spray on the factory Dauberts wax coating.

2019 Silverado here. Behind the passenger side interior fuse panel cover, there are white trim clips that are attached to it. I have looked at every auto parts store in town for these clips. Can’t find anything. Also scoured GM’s parts website up and down and can’t find a reference. Does anybody know the part number to replacement trim clips for this panel?

Thanks for this. I guess I just figured 6 quarts would make it “full “

V-6 2019 Silverado calls for 6qts of oil. During an oil change, I drained all the oil out and changed filter. Truck is sitting on level ground, and all oil was drained until the last drop came out. I pre-filled the new filter to the top with oil, which left me with 5 3/4 ish quarts of oil. I put the rest in the truck. I started my truck and let it run for a good five minutes or so. Shut it off, and let it sit for about an hour. I came back out and checked the dipstick my dipstick only shows half way. I even really stuck the dipstick down in the oil and “spun“ it a few times to make sure it picked up all over. Same thing. then I started thinking that Oil was not “sticking“ to parts of this dipstick. As you can see from the picture above; there’s oil on the very top of it, but nothing in the middle section. So I tested my theory and went and stuck the dipstick in an old bottle used oil. It stuck all over it with no problems. i’m guessing it would probably take another half a quart or so to at least to get it up to the full mark. What the hell is the deal ? when Chevrolet specifies 6 quarts of oil for this engine, they clearly state that this is “with filter“.

Does anyone know what the amperage rating on the cigarette lighter power adapter in the front cab is? I know it’s hooked to a 50 amp fuse on the passenger side fuse panel, but that seems huge for a cigarette lighter. at the most, all I’ve ever seen was 10 amps. But this is literally hooked to a 50 amp fuse. Wanted to check before I split it and hook some accessories to it. Can’t find a solid answer.

That’s the problem. They don’t know what happened to it and now they are having trouble sourcing the item. I thought I’d have a look and try to source the part myself. (2 heads better than one). I can’t find a solid part number to save my life. Just wanting to at least “see” the part to match it up to some of the suspected parts online. But since that part is missing, I have no visual cross reference for it.

Thanks. I’ve got a 2019 with basic towing package. I’m hoping mine isn’t “hardwired” like yours is (mine doesn’t appear to be). I appreciate it a bunch. I just spoke with the body shop and they said that they are ordering this part (photo below). It “looks” like the right part, but I’m not sure why it is labeled “parking aid system wiring harness”. The system says that it fits my truck. But I don’t have parking sensors, but the part does appear to have the appropriate connectors. Fingers crossed. I’m still hoping someone else with a basic towing package chimes in here. Thanks again.

Anyone with a 19/20/21 (new body style Silverado, with towing package)?? So I’m trying to source a part that is missing. I had the truck repaired after rear end damage and when I got the vehicle back, the wire was missing. The wiring harness behind the 7 pin tow connector. I’m trying to find out where it connects to the truck at. I can’t source the part/diagram online. I talked to several dealerships parts departments, even they were having trouble sourcing the part. I Was going to go to the dealership lot and look at some of the trucks on the lot and see how they are connected, but thought someone could help me out here first. It looks like a male/female wiring harness, maybe 10 inches long. Best I can tell, it looks like it plugs in to a harness connector that runs along the rear frame crossmember. I’ll include a photo of where I “think“ the harness plugs into by the rear frame member. I’ll also include a photo of the back of the seven pin trailer connector. I found a similar part for the “old model” 2019’s , but parts catalogs say it doesn’t fit my truck. The photo for that part is here. Part number 84154213 if someone could just send me a photo of how this connects. Is it hard wired to the entire vehicle wiring harness assembly? Or is a simple pigtail connector? If a pigtail, any part numbers. if it’s hardwired into the vehicle electrical harness assembly, I’m wondering if they didn’t “accidentally rip it“. begging 4 help. Thanks again to the forum

Can someone please help me out. I’m trying to find the part number for the wiring harness that connects the trailer wire harness on the rear bumper to the truck itself. It’s the wire that runs from behind the rear of the bumper to the truck plug underneath the truck. I have looked EVERYWHERE to try and find the OEM part number. I am at a complete loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

No, it looks like this , but is longer without the 4 pin. It’s a gm oem part.

Well, I thought this would be easy. Looking for the seven pin wiring harness that plugs in behind the oem 7-pin bumper plug of the trailer light connector and runs up and plugs in to the 7 PIn vehicle plug. it’s essentially an adapter harness for seven pin connector. One side is male, and the other side is female. he connects the OEM trailer plug on the rear bumper, to the wiring harness just underneath the truck. I have looked up every word and search term in GM parts websites. I can’t find anything with a part number or name that will bring me to this product. Does anyone have any assistance they can offer? even a simple schematic of the wiring in the rear of the truck with part numbers listed underneath would be great. I think I could find it from there. Looks like it might only be about a 10 inch long wiring harness may be a little longer. I will add pictures of the two adapters I need to connect together under the truck.

the lemon law states that … “…Most manufacturers use an arbitration system to resolve lemon law disputes, and you must notify them in writing if you think your vehicle is a lemon. If you cannot settle your case through arbitration, consult with a lemon law attorney, as you may need to take the manufacturer to court…” I can tell you about GM’s arbitration system. However , I have not filed a lemon law case…..yet… Just to save you some time and headache, I have already been down this road with GM. After weeks of emails back and forth with GM corporate… they basically said… we can contact a GM dealer of your choosing to work on buying back the vehicle.” This sounds good at first, but basically all you’re doing is walking into the dealership and trading your truck in for whatever they offer. There’s no special incentive, no guaranteed cash offer, all big corporate GM is doing is just setting you up with an appointment and turning their heads. they’re just making it sound like on paper they are “helping“ or “buying back“ your truck. They aren’t. I pretty much told them, “no thanks.“ I can go to Carmax and do the same thing without months of emails to GM corporate. Either way, I’m gonna lose $$$. I feel like the only way to get anything done through GM is if a lawyer contacts them on your behalf. Even then, who knows. and then ur talking legal fees (which could probably be restituted ) , time in court, etc. with today’s current vehicle values, I would probably just outright sell it. You’re guaranteed to make a profit. if you’re going to do it though, I’d move quick. Most states, you only have 12 months or 12,000 miles to file a lemon law complaint.

Just to save you some time and headache, I have already been down this road with GM. After weeks of emails back and forth with GM corporate… they basically said… we can contact a GM dealer of your choosing to work on buying back the vehicle.” This sounds good at first, but basically all you’re doing is walking into the dealership and trading your truck in for whatever they offer. There’s no special incentive, no guaranteed cash offer, all big corporate GM is doing is just setting you up with an appointment and turning their heads. they’re just making it sound like on paper they are “helping“ or “buying back“ your truck. They aren’t. I pretty much told them, “no thanks.“ I can go to Carmax and do the same thing without months of emails to GM corporate. Either way, I’m gonna lose $$$. I feel like the only way to get anything done through GM is if a lawyer contacts them on your behalf. Even then, who knows.

I’m glad u mentioned about the brake lights. I need to check mine. Good thing u noticed, because ur brake light relay will stay activated even when the truck is off. Make sure ur brake lights aren’t staying on with the truck parked. U might need to unhook your battery. If u deplete the charge on that battery once, it’s toast.

Did u get your appointment taken care of. I finally got in this morning. They reprogrammed the brake system module on mine. Work order stated “Brake System Control Module (BSCM) Reprogramming with SPS 0.3h”. you’re lucky you got in the next day. Took me a month to get in for a 15 minute job with the computer. Chevrolet needs to do something, I can’t have my truck out of commission for an entire month every time the dealer needs to hit “control/alt/delete”. Very frustrating. Best of luck to u. so far everything is back to normal on my end. I will keep this form posted of any new developments.

Well , after calling Chevrolet and scheduling my appointment almost a month ago. I finally get to drive to the dealer this morning. I Received my appointment reminder email from Chevrolet a few days ago. (Appointment at 10:00am on July 5th, 2021). keep in mind, I did not schedule this on the online app. I actually called the dealership and they scheduled it on their end. I drive a city away in limp mode (max speed 43mph), and 50% braking power. White knuckle the whole way. I am greeted with this… (photo below). are you serious GM? You can’t possibly be this incompetent! I am so done with Chevrolet. I have not been able to drive my truck for almost a month because of a “software glitch“. The technical service bulletin calls for a half hour labor time to fix this. You seriously can’t get me in before 30 days out? And then when you schedule me, you’re closed?! Not to mention the white knuckle drive of death to an entire town away, to get to the dealership. Now I get to do it again tomorrow. Chevrolet, me and you are absolutely done.

Yeah, I had this happen about a year ago. Same deal as yours. Started it up the next morning, all codes were gone. Unfortunately, this time the codes of stuck and there’s been no changes. Been waiting almost a month to get into the dealer. Thankfully, I go Monday. I know in the past there’s been a “break firmware“ issue with these that needed updating. Unfortunately I already had that update last year. Dealer also told me back then that if you set the electronic parking break and don’t let it engage fully before letting off the foot break, it can throw a code. I’ve always been real careful to make sure the parking brake was fully engaged before I let my foot off the break pedal. God forbid I was five states away and that crap happened. I’ll be in limp mode with 50% breaking power and no appointments for almost 30 days available. Unsatisfactory

Yeah, I took a look at mine. All four green indicators we’re up. I went ahead and snugged them up. They were tight. No changes. I have an appointment Monday morning. Took me almost a month to get one. I’ll keep you all posted as to what the prognosis is. God forbid they need “parts“. Been hearing horror stories on horrendous order times for parts

Well, 2019 Silverado work truck 4x4 here. 10,000 miles. Original owner. No onstar installed, no app, no push button start. Old school with keys here. all recalls are up to date as of 3 months ago. Never had any braking issues. The aforementioned brake firmware update was completed on my truck over a year ago during routine maintenance at the dealership. fast forward till today… I got in the truck this morning, put the keys in the ignition and turned it to accessory mode and let all the computers and dials do there thing before I engaged the starter. I was INSTANTLY greeted with the following 1. Brake system failure, 43mph top speed 2. Service trailer brake system 3. Service brake assist 4. Service ESC 5. Check engine light 6. Brake light 7. Traction control light I hooked my scanner up and got codes P25A2 and C05B0. In fact, I hadn’t even started the truck. I put my keys in the ignition, and turned it to “accessory on“. All these warnings lit up on the DIC. Tried to restart multiple times, even disconnected the negative battery post for 10 minutes and tried again. The code stayed. I did not clear the codes with my scanner because I wanted the dealer to see them. Tried to drive it. Braking power is definitely diminished by 50%. Spongy and to the floor. battery voltage is good at 12.75, alternator working showing 14 volts. No sign of current drain overnight. Did not do a battery load test. Looked under the truck and checked all brake parts and lines, with no sign of obvious issue. No brake fluid found anywhere under truck, and brake reservoir was full. Taking it to the dealer tomorrow morning. Just curious if anybody else has found any resolution to this. All my recalls are up-to-date. just kind of hard to believe it would be a software issue when I’ve driven over a year on the firmware update with no problem. only thing I can think of is that I park on a hill and use the electronic parking brake when I leave the truck overnight. Maybe I put it on a little late or left my foot off the break before engaged in the brake sensor saw motion after the truck was shut off? Maybe bad motion sensor in the brake caliper?. Just thinking out loud here. Or maybe the software finally came to bite me in the butt about a year later? Not quite sure any suggestions or insight? BTW, i know this is an old thread. But it fits my problem and I felt like this belonged here.

Hey, these are good words. I totally agree with you. These guys are truly talented artists. 110% agree. I have toured the inside of several automotive assembly plants in the past. Robotically welded parts done with precision. One tool specifically torqued and specked to one job. Quality assurance checks along the way. when replacing a frame, you are essentially rolling a truck down an assembly line backwards and then putting it all back together again. But without the robotics, assembly line quality assurance, constantly calibrated torque tools, order of operation quality assurance, etc. it’s like trying to have Henry Ford build the Model T in his garage instead of a proper manufacturing plant. People are human, things get missed/overlooked. They aren’t bad people. It just seems like a lot to get “perfect” in a body shop. Hell, GM doesn’t do it 100% all the time either. The assembly line eliminates the chances that things go wrong (to a large degree) anyhow, this is TOTALLY NOT a knock against the auto body worker. More just a concern in my thoughts.

Anyone else have this? got in the truck today and was greeted with the following… 1. Brake system failure, 43mph top speed 2. Service trailer brake system 3. Service brake assist 4. Service ESC Braking power is definitely diminished by 50% hooked my scanner up and got codes P25A2 and C05B0. In fact, I hadn’t even started the truck. I put my keys in the ignition, and turned it to “accessory on“. All these warnings lit up on the DIC. Tried to restart multiple times, even disconnected the negative battery post for 10 minutes and tried again. The code stayed. I did not clear the codes with my scanner because I wanted the dealer to see them. i’m going to call the dealer in the morning to get an appointment. Just curious if anybody else is going through this. I know there was an issue going around about a year and a half ago where there was a software update needed. I already had this update. All my recalls are up-to-date. any suggestions or insight?

Hey thanks so much for this. This is definitely very reassuring. This is kind of unknown territory for me and I wasn’t quite sure what I was walking into with this. One of the mechanics at the shop said that Ford has sectional repairable frames. Not quite sure why Chevy doesn’t do this since rear end collision‘s are very common. Not knocking on Chevy, I love them. But I’m sure they have their reasons and they are smarter than me. thanks again for the insight, and it’s good to talk to someone who’s “been there“.