Boondock

I I just swapped out the fender/body arches on my AT4 they come off pretty easy. If you start at the bottom and pull back you will hear popping after you get the molding started away from the truck start working it toward the tire it will come on off pretty easy after that. What you will be left with is a bunch of plastic barbs left in the truck and some will have came off while you were removing the fender arch. Remove those by taking a small screw driver and pressing in one side of the barb while pulling back on the top square part of the barb I mean its pretty obvious how to take those off. There is one yellow one that is an absolute pain that you will have to mash both sides of the barb in to get out. You must remove all of the barbs because they will need to go back into the fender arch slots so that it will go back on correctly there is no real sliding it back into place if one of the barbs isn't right where it needs to be. If you already have color matching arches I would take my time there is less flex (IMO) than the rubber ones that most the trucks have on them. Its not that bad to do. If it is the black rubber flares and you tear them up I know a guy that has a couple extras so no worries.

I guess the real question is what happens when it doesn't work like it should? What are the negative outcomes? Has anybody tried that it didn't go well? Exactly what is it that makes it not compatible?

I think it is cylinder deactivation. If I put the truck in L9 which is my only option since ranger doesn't have anything available for 6.2 10 speed the truck seems to completely heal itself of any vibration/low rpm issues(gas mileage doesn't look as good) . I also found that most of the noise is coming from the exhaust pipe vibrating against the heat shield of the Spare tire so I wedged a block between the two. I know this only curing the symptom not the cause but the symptom is a lot less aggravating now. I dont know if L9 deactivates dfm or just overdrive but whatever it does its worth a try if you cant bare the little rumble strip feeling anymore.

So today I went searching for my vibration/ noise knowing it was coming from the tail pipe I went looking for places the tailpipe might be vibrating against the truck and bingo the tail pipe was within a .25” of the spare tire heat shield I Jammed a wooden wedge between the two now 98% of my noise is gone. I’m not saying this is the fix but at least I don’t hear it anymore hoping somebody else can duplicate.

So I just bought an At4 with a 6.2l 10 speed trans. That does the same thing, I also have found that it does it all speeds but what seems to be the most relevant predictor of noise is a mpg range of about 30-40 mpg. I get this noise/vibration coming from the exhaust that sometimes gets bad enough to feel in the cab for a brief second. I have also found during the right circumstances it will do it in when the truck is in reverse while sitting still. I can take my foot and press against the exhaust and the noise will go away. I guess I'm going to take it back to the dealer with less than a 1000 miles on it seems like it definitely shouldn't do that.

Just Bought A 2020 AT4 6.2l 10 speed and at about 30mph I get a rumble sounds from what sounds like the rear of the truck?? Its just really hard to tell. A mechanic friend of mine also said he felt a shutter under really light acceleration. I have noticed a twitch in rpms while this sound is happening almost like it is caught between gears/dfm settings or the rpms are just dropping to low. The truck seems to run fine otherwise but I don't know seems like it shouldn't happen at all with less than 600 miles on the truck.