Roy V

Including the geniuses at General Motors Now let’s talk about the replacing the BCM so the radio turns off when you open the door after shutting the truck offUnder warranty,they don’t want to do that,but they’ll charge you to do it and fix the problem after warranty is expired I took care of that problem before they could also…What about the non responsive throttle and hunting for gear when you NEED to move in a hurry???? I’m almost done with that problem too

Check my previous posts.It hasn’t made the noise since I fixed it myself.I thought it was coming from the rear differential also but it’s not.It’s the rubber pads in between the leafs chattering transferring the noise into the rear.3M or equivalent makes a spray wax for rust prevention for the inside of doors,fenders,quarter panels etc…It’s not wax for the exterior paint,it’s for rust proofing,which you should have done to your truck anyway even if you live in the south west. Jack the truck so the rear hangs down and spray the body and cavity wax in between the leafs, especially where the the front and rear spring pads touch the springs.You can even pry them apart a little with a pry bar or a wedge that you use when cutting down trees.This wax does not wash out and always stays soft and tacky like beeswax.

My 2020 gmc 2500hd just started doing the same thing. GM customer service and every dealer i talked to "has never heard of this problem" . They are full of ****** and useless. i guess only the people on the forums know anything about it.Hey General motors, your Chinese ****** doesn't work.,,,The radio also doesn't shut off when you open the door after you turn the truck off.

Lemon law only works if it is a safety related issue and the dealer tried to fix it at least 3 times and failed to solve the problem…. Don’t let the monkeys at the dealership fumble with your $70,000 truck unless it’s absolutely necessary. The noise in mine hasn’t come back since it got cool outside and I sprayed some automotive rust preventive body cavity wax on the plastic leaf spring pads.

Like my post said, it went away by itself when it got cold. The rubber pads stiffened up and slid on the leafs instead of chattering. …. If the leveling kit is for coil springs, I would say something is loose with the kit or maybe a shock mount isn’t tight enough. Torsion bar leveling kits only change the angle of the bar pre load bracket and should not cause any noise up front.

25000 mi. and still no more noise. It went away in September when it started to get cold and the rubber pads stiffened up. We’ll see what happens when it warms up next spring and the pads get more grip to them . Also the rust proofing cavity wax is probably working it’s way in between the pads and springs.

My dealer changed spring packs on two trucks which made the noise go away for a few months but it slowly came back . Mine is a 2020 2500hd slt x31 grocery getter, did it since new, last winter it was almost nonexistent, this 100 degree summer people heard it as I drove by! Now it’s colder and it went away. The tsb says use grease but I think never seize or cavity wax for rust proofing cars wold last longer if it is the spring sliding on the pads.

Update on mine. I haven’t done the grease on the springs yet, but, the past few days here in north NJ have been getting cooler in the morning ( 45- 50 degrees) and the clunking noise has vanished. No matter what I try to do to make it clunk, it’s not there. My guess is the rubber pads on the springs is harder and not grabbing the metal as they slide around.

Dealer just told me they had two others come in for the same thing. One truck had the spring pack replaced and the noise came right back so their trying it again. The other one is coming in for the first spring change. Service advisor and the tech both said to me that this is not a fix for the problem and I agreed that changing the springs is a disservice to the vehicle. We talked about how grease is not to be used on leaf springs ever. Even though the TSB says to grease the pads between the spring pads. He said my idea of dry lube with Teflon or anti seize or molybdenum would be a better choice and last longer and not collect dirt like grease. I’ll post the results after I do it. If the noise goes away, I’ll know it’s not inside the rear.

My 2020 2500hd is doing the same thing when going over bumps like when going over a speed bump on an angle. Thought it was the spare or something above it. If you get the truck rocking from side to side by pushing on the side of the bumper ( you really have to get the sidewalls of the tires flexing)it will make the noise. (It’s not the axel end play click, it’s a deep, inside the rear clunk.)When lying under the back of the truck while someone rocks it side to side, it feels and sounds like it is coming from inside the rear. I have 17568 mi on it. It made the noise a little when new but is getting worse after 1 year of driving.This truck has never hauled or towed anything.

I think it’s inside the rear. I just posted on this. I’m going to bring it in for warranty and tell them where to look .

My 2020 2500hd is doing the same thing when going over bumps like when going over a speed bump on an angle. Thought it was the spare or something above it. If you get the truck rocking from side to side by pushing on the side of the bumper ( you really have to get the sidewalls of the tires flexing)it will make the noise. (It’s not the axel end play click, it’s a deep, inside the rear clunk.)When lying under the back of the truck while someone rocks it side to side, it feels and sounds like it is coming from inside the rear. I have 17568 mi on it. It made the noise a little when new but is getting worse after 1 year of driving.This truck has never hauled or towed anything.

I finished the rest of the install the factory left out tonight. My knee bolster was already installed by the factory. I wasn't about to take the whole dash apart to mount the fuse/relay box even though I do this kind of work for a living. The factory should have screwed it in place while the bolster was out. I was able to get the two screws in behind the installed knee bolster with my fingers and with a short socket (7 mm) and a swivel head 1/4" drive ratchet, tighten them to the box. Reaching up behind the bolster and clicking in the two plugs wasn't too bad either.

I guess after this is installed, you still have to drill through the firewall to get your power wires outside to your accessories where you need them?

I plan on using one switch to turn on the air horns and wire tap off the original horns to trigger the relay of the air horns. This way, both horns will work off the horn button. Yes the factory horn will blow at the same time but you'll never hear it.