Thinking the the 110v heater in the cab might be the way to go. Timer for a couple hrs before I go only on days its got frozen snow on it. I dont mind the cold, I like it. But the other day it took me 30+ minutes to get the 3 inches of pure slush that had turned to ice off it just enough to drive. Unfortunately weather events like this are seeming more common.
I recently sold my WRX which fit in my garage....and thus was the vehicle I normally drove when it was snowy or crummy out. Now that I am parking outside again (my truck doesn't fit in the garage) I remember how much it sucks to have to clean the snow and ice off before being able to drive. I have remote start, and that works okay but I really hate just letting the truck run to get everything thawed out, plus it takes a while if it has an inch plus of ice. I have read that the factory block heaters only work when its very cold out. This doesnt interest me as I want it on whenever its snowing out. Maybe try aftermarket and just clear the CEL when it comes on? Does anyone have experience with a coolant circulating pump/heater? If I plumb that to the heater core it would help keep some heat in the cab itself and maybe keep it from icing up as badly? Other option might be to just run a 12v electric heater in the cab for a few hrs off an extension cord, but not sure how I feel about doing this. I need to build a bigger garage but that wont be for a few more years. Anyone have suggestions? Just suck it up? Truck is a 2016 2500HD 6.0 gas
You need to have the dealer program this or find a shop with the right computer to purchase the software from GM and program it. Just have the dealer do this. I believe they charge $150 or so. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
I have a 2016 2500 with 50k on it, just checked my brake pads last week while I had it up for an oil change. Pads still have 70% of their life left. Rotors have some rust ridges but that expected around here. My co worker has a 2015 with 35k on it. He has already had to replace brakes on it. He also says they just wear out quickly. Riding with him I think it's more a driving habit. He doesn't drive fast, but he just doesn't brake smooth. A 2500 has a lot of mass....yes it has bigger brakes then a 1500 but that doesn't mean they will last longer. I bet it's a combination of weight and slightly aggressive breaking. Probably was not an issue for you before because you had lighter trucks. Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
Do you still have this? I know we talked some last year about it......
I ended up using chassis ears to listen and what sounded like the front ended up being in the rear. Turns out it was my leafsprings binding and making noise. Cleaned and lubricated them and its good to go.
Any new news on this? I know its very old but trying to track down what ended up solving it.
I fluid film my truck (2016 2500hd) and also have noise from the rear end after application. I believe its the rear spring shackles or bushing as well but can not understand why. Worse in warmer weather and basically gone in the winter. I would hardly say FF is hard on rubber and wiring harnesses. Been using it for years on many vehicles and it doesnt seem to cause much issues besides this clunk. Oil on the other hand....that ruins rubber very quickly.
Mine does this as well with stock keys turned up slightly. Lots of room between bump stop and control arm and shocks are bilstien 5100 with extenders. Started after leveling it. Everything feels tight and looks normal except the noise. I doubt its the arm hitting the stop as I have undercoating on them and it hardly disturbs it.....meaning the arms almost never hit the stop. I am only leveled about 1.5 inches.
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