Jump to content

EJCarter

Member
  • Content Count

    95
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

32 Good

About EJCarter

  • Rank
    Enthusiast

Profile Information

  • Name
    Array
  • Location
    Array
  • Gender
    Array
  • Drives
    Array

Recent Profile Visitors

2,537 profile views
  1. Rolling back that far seems excessive in my opinion. My '16 does roll back about a small amount on a slight slope, but using the e-brake before putting it in park will stop this. The greater the slope, the more the truck will move, but still not as excessive as you state. Maybe your e-brake needs to be adjusted? Try this next time...hook one of your tailgate support cables over the tailgate latch pin on the bed. This will temporarily hold your tailgate at an approx. 45 degree angle. Now your rear camera is looking directly down at your ball and hitch, thus making the alignment much easier through the fish-eye lense. If you need to stop a little short, you will see this is much easier too...
  2. Regarding the popping - if they are Moog ball joints, they had a bad batch that prematurely failed. I had a slight popping noise while hitting bumps, but it was only coming from the right side. I took it back to the manufacturer of my leveling kit who informed me of the ball joint problem. They ended up warranting both Moog ball joints that came in their UCAs and the popping stopped - and has not returned... Regarding the slight bang - when we installed my leveling kit, I initially had a slight banging noise that could be heard and felt as a sharp vibration in the floor over certain bumps, but not all bumps. We initially had my truck cranked so it sat level. We de-cranked just slightly and the banging stopped. This increased the distance between the UCA and the droop stop. You also mentioned the bilsteins...are you running shock extensions? If not, the slight bang could be coming from your shocks fully extending over bumps...
  3. Awesome idea 737Mechanic !!! I will take a pair if you are willing to make more as you spoke about in your video. I do not have access to a 3D printer. We can private message each other the details...payment, shipping, etc... Nice job...
  4. Check out Highway Products. They have multiple styles, finishes, and colors available. They are a little pricey, but you definitely get what you pay for. They come with a lifetime warranty, are made from 1/8" thick aluminum, have an automotive door style weather seal, and all the hardware (piano hinge, lock set, lock rods, etc.) are all stainless... They custom built my box about 3.5 years ago. I had them build it a little narrower to suit my needs. It is a satin black powder coat finish to somewhat match the the black plastic bed rails covers and factory spray in bed liner. The tool box lid is what they call leopard - lightly shaved diamond plate for a two-toned effect. Its something different that I initially wasn't to sure of, but really liked it once I received the box. They have other finishes like this available too... They even have some pretty cool bed rails for additional tie down points if that is something you need too. They do include two tie down hooks on the box itself...along with a bottle opener inside the lid to open a frosty cold beverage should the need arise...
  5. Now, I didn't say it was simple to get the rear of the factory fog lights, it was just simple to twist out the bulb housing turning it a quarter turn once I got to it. Believe me, this is much easier than removing the wheel liner. I started with this option first as I read a thread (can't remember if it was this forum or Duramax Diesel) as that's what the consensus was stating at that time too. After removing all the wheel liner screws and plastic fender molding screws (the wheel liner is tucked under), it still wouldn't budge. If my memory is correct (this was a few years ago), the fender molding is held on with 3M tape also that needs to be replaced once removed. Or some type of fastener that you have break (and replace) in order to fully remove it correctly. Somebody then posted they where able change the bulbs from the backside without removing the liner. I, like you tried, and figured, there is no way to get your hands in there (by the way, I don't have child hands). I put everything away and figured I'd tackle it another day. One day, after a few beers, I saw the bulbs on the workbench, and went for round 2. Maybe the blue mountains on the ice cold beer cans shrunk my hands a little, I don't know, but I was able to get my hands up in there. It was tight. I think I removed a few screws from the front side of the liner to allow it flex back a little to create a little more room, but you definitely have to remove the small approx 10" diagonal bumper brace behind each light housing (again, going off memory on the size of that brace). I did this all from the ground...no jack used...all done by feel to get the bulb socket to turn the quarter turn for removal... Again, in the multiple opinions from that previous thread, this is much easier than removing the liner... Have some beers and give it another try...
  6. I'm not sure if this will work for the T1, but a clean look is mounting Rigid Ignite Back-Up Lights in the rear bumper step. I did this on my 2016. If they don't fit inside the step, maybe they'll fit on the flat plastic that is more flush with the bumper. They do require a couple inches of clearance behind them... I installed mine about three years ago and have had no issues. They are each connected separately to the factory back-up light wiring directly above... They put out a tremendous amount of light for their small size. I believe someone asked if they will light up across a 20' driveway (I know the thread is old), and yes they will...and then some. They will light up my 70' driveway and still illuminate trees and fences on the other side of the street. All this without washing out the backup camera...
  7. Fog light bulbs can be replaced without bumper removal. From the back side of each light housing, simply twist out the factory bulb socket and swap the bulb with your desired replacement. You may consider removing the small bumper support behind each fog light to make a little more room for your hand...it is a little tight in there. I replaced my stock fog light bulbs with Xenon Depot Xtreme LED CMB Bulbs. A set of 2 was about $50.00. These provided much more crisper light output that you could actually tell were on. I am very happy with these. I couldn't even tell if the stock fog lights were on or off...
  8. This happened to me once about 2 or 3 years ago. Mine didn't have anything to do with park assist being disabled as it wasn't at the time. I was curious too at that time as I was sure we didn't have front camera wiring installed during the build. I believe I also posted this on another forum - hoping that we had the factory wiring in place for a simple camera add...obviously that's was a nope... Mine has never come up again...chalked it up to some electronic glitch...
  9. I had the same problem on my 2016 and it was fixed about six weeks ago... Mine started out as the intermittent red line through the GPS and no compass on the center dash, but the Navigation still worked. Eventually it Nav started to fail also by showed me tracking off the road a little, but all would occasionally return to normal. After about six months, Nav was completely wrong, and red line was through the GPS and compass was gone (not intermittent - complete failure). I first checked with an OnStar tech by calling in and they gave me a generic code of a fault in their system (can't recall code number) and to take it to the dealer for repair. Prior to that, I looked up that code and it comes back as the Onstar Module behind the Infotainment screen or the antenna. Knowing their have been years of issues with water intrusion in the antenna, I figured it was the issue. But, the good news for me is I've never had any leakage in the cab like I know so many others have had. I stopped by the dealer...the service manage stepped up on the side of the truck and wiggled the antenna. Water oozed out and it hadn't rained in a few days. He knew the gasket had failed and water shorted out the antenna. They ordered a replacement (didn't have my color in stock) and swapped it a couple days later. Problem fixed. No issues since.
  10. Check out Central Coast Motorsports (ccmoffroad.com). Their leveling kit is $550 and includes UCA, keys, shock spacers, and diff drop spacers (diff drop is sold separately, but included in the $550 price). I have been running it for about three and half years...no issues. I sit just below level and it rides just a little stiffer than stock. The ride did get much better when I later added the bilstein shocks and got rid of the stock junk rancho's. Shocks are not included in the above price. I ran 275/65R20 BFG KO2 tires, but they were a little small / narrow in my opinion - especially with the level kit. It was time for new tires and I just put on 285/65R20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers about three weeks ago. This size looks a lot better - tiny bit taller and tiny bit wider. Both sets of tires were / are on the factory wheels. No rubbing with the larger size as of now, but I haven't put them in any extreme angles yet either - but there seems to be plenty of room. Attached pics are with the older 275 tires, CCM UCAs (before I installed the bilstein's), and my CV angles...
  11. Just FYI if there is interest... CCM sells just the diff drop spacers too. They will fit 2011-present 2500/3500 trucks. Works with all brands of leveling or lift kits. It comes with (4) spacers, (4) longer bolts, and washers. $45.00. There are quite a few good reviews where adding these spacers eliminated the vibration. www.ccmoffroad.com
  12. You might try contacting Phil Gamboa...www.harnessdr.com...he is the guru for GM electrical / mods.
  13. I have seen threads on this form and the Duramax Forum where numerous people have installed manufactured LED strip running lights in this location or made their own by purchasing a quality weather-proof roll of LED lights and cut to the desired length. Tapping these ultra low draw LED to the location of your choice should not create any issues (under bed rail or inside tool boxes for example). Some have run the wires into the cab through the rubber grommets just on the back side of that body seam and tapped them into the dome light wire (to illuminate the running board with the key fob, door open, and fade off), others have tapped them into the back of the trailer plug (to be used as running lights), or purchase the adapter as stated from Coolade above and tie into your tail lights...it just depends how you want them illuminated. I saw where a guy drilled small 3/4" holes in the running board supporting brackets and installed flush mount round LEDs in each bracket to illuminate the running boards when the doors where open...pretty clean. A couple years ago, I installed Rigid Back Up Lights in the bumper steps and tapped into the back up light wire just above behind each tail light. I have never had any issues by adding these. In fact, the dealer where I purchased my truck saw what I did and now will custom install these through their parts dept. I believe your service writer might just not know the big picture...
  14. Did the Cognito kit come with diff drop spacers? If not, I would add these. It will lower the diff a little which will decrease your CV angle... Pic is one of my rear spacers...
  15. My def heater was replaced a few months ago by the dealer under warranty. I had to wait a few weeks for the part as there was a nationwide back order. The dealer initially cleared the code, which cleared the check engine light, but it came back a few days later. I asked them that same question...will it go into limp mode? At that time, we didn't know how long the back order on the heater would last. They said no..it shouldn't for this single issue. I wasn't too confident in their answer. They hadn't seen one go limp from a def heater issue only. I was able to clear the code using my CTS Insight. It returned a few times during the next couple weeks until the part arrived and was replaced. I've had no issues since... You should be able to clear your code and check engine light using a code reader from any large auto parts chain store...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.