Much smoother ride. Here is a specific example...there is a section on the freeway that I drive going home from work with a fairly large transition (bump) on a bridge over-crossing. With the old Rancho's, I definitely felt it. It would rattle the truck. When I put the Bilstein's on, the bump was basically gone. I initially thought the road was fixed. But this is California - we don't really fix our roads even though we pay for it in our fuel tax and registration fee's... Also, I noticed and increase in handling - much less body roll...
The Bilsteins do offer a much better ride than the stock Rancho's. I put the leveling kit on my truck at approx. 6K miles and left the stock Rancho's on. At about 10K miles, I put on the Bilsteins. The ride quality definitely improved. If tire rub won't be an issue, you may consider slightly de-cranking the torsion bars. Lowering the front end just a little, like a 1/4" will decrease the preload on the bars and this will also improve ride quality.
Welcome to the "Rigid Lights in Bumper Step" family. I did mine a few years ago...No issues...Plenty of good additional lighting where its needed without washing out the back up camera. Nice job on your install!!! I like the clean look of the switch on your dash. I simply hooked mine up to the factory back-up light wiring, so they come on anytime I'm in reverse. I too made the multiple measurements behind the step. The depth of the light housing caused initial concerns of contacting the truck body. The outside edge placement gave me the confidence there would be enough clearance. I made a template out of the Rigid Lights packaging cardboard and taped this to back of the step. This aligned the three pilot holes for initial drilling (center for the 1.75" hole saw and the two outside holes for the mounting screws). The upper washers and nuts are a ******! I was able to get them on with long angled needle nose pliers. It was tight, and after I got the first ones on, I had to have a beer and "drink" about the next one. It took awhile, but I got them on. I might have had a few more beers!!! See pics below... Template I made, cut hole and light installed (same as the OP), light output from a distance, and light output looking back thru the drivers side mirror...
I had something very similar when my truck was new...obviously your headliner is a tad longer than what they comes in a truck, but I'm sure it's still secured the same way. I had that very annoying rattle that bugs the ****** out of you. Mine seemed to be coming from above and behind my seat in the overhead. Mostly on the freeway, but also in town over certain bumps. After a little troubleshooting, the headliner felt more solid on the passenger side as compared to the drivers side around the sunroof. I just started pushing up on the headliner, starting at the front corner of the sunroof (above the drivers seat) and it clicked in. It took quite a bit of force, but it popped in...I worked it towards the rear of the sunroof...another click. The headliner on the drivers side now felt solid like it did on the passenger side...and that annoying rattle was gone... This may or may not be what is causing your issue? But, if it is, this simple fix might help...
I'm a firm believer in purchasing a quality engineered leveling kit from a reputable manufacture. We invest a lot of money in these trucks, so, spend a little more now and it may save you in the long run. The kit needs to include UCAs, keys, diff drop spacers, and shock extensions. You can run your stock shocks, but since ride quality is something you are looking for, replacing the stock shocks with a quality aftermarket shock should also be included on your list. You must remember any leveling kit will stiffen the ride up front. In simple terms, we are “lifting” our trucks by increasing the load on the torsion bar. The more we crank on the keys, or “lift”, the stiffer the ride. The UCAs, diff drop spacers, shock extensions, and re-indexed keys all work together to compensate all these angles we’ve just changed by trying to get them back to the factory specs…or as close to factory specs as possible. Again, the more you crank, the stiffer the ride, and the harder it is to bring it back to factory specs. As long as you know all the facts, do some research, purchase a quality designed kit, and don’t over-crank “lift,” a leveling kit is a good alternative to a true lift kit. But, if you truly want the best ride and do want to maintain all the factory specs, there is nothing better than a quality engineered lift kit. It will cost way more up front, and most require cutting and welding for installation, thus making them more permanent, but, again, nothing is better. I’m running a CCM Leveling Kit (Central Coast Motorsports) on my truck. I’m only cranked to raise the front about 2”. The ride did slightly stiffen, but to me it’s more truck like. The rear is stock. I am just slightly lower in the front, but I wanted to get rid of the factory stink bug look, so I didn’t raise the rear. I ran the stock Rancho shocks for a little while, but as soon as I put the Bilstein’s on, the ride was much better. The stock shocks are junk…and they were still new. I put this kit on when the truck had approx. 6K miles (replaced the shocks at 10K). I’m at approx. 50K on the truck now and have had no issues. All the ball joints are tight, the CV angles are good (that is what the diff drop spacers are for), no wear with the stock idler or pitman arms, etc. I do rotate tires and re-inspect alignment every 10K just to make sure everything remains tight. I also ran a leveling kit on my previous truck, an ’04 LLY. I had it for the 12 years and put about 180K miles on it. Never any big issues with the kit. I did have to replace the idler, pitman arms, and ball joints a few times – the wear could have been from being leveled, or just normal wear with slightly oversized tires. Again, do your research. There is a lot of info on this forum (and other forums) regarding the pros and cons of leveling kits. Some people like them, some people don’t. From my personal experience, they can work if you purchase all the right components, don’t crank it too much, and don’t put on too large of a tire…
A jumper wire is installed the same way a diode is installed at the BCM. The diode only allows the current (electricity) to flow in one direction where a wire will allow it to flow in both directions... For example - Hotwheel used a wire and wanted his bed lights to come on anytime his interior lights were on, which this accomplished. But since the electricity can flow in both directions, when (or if) he uses the bed light switch in the cab, his interior lights will come on too. If a diode is used and placed the correct way (interior lights to bed lights), the bed lights will come every time the interior lights are on (like he has it), but the interior lights will not come on if the bed light switch is used... Below is a BCM diode mod on a '16 jumping from from one pin in the brown module to one pin in the pink module. The diode has a silver stripe on the pink module side. Electricity can only flown from the brown side to the pink side, but not the other direction. If a wire was used, it would flow both directions...
I guess it's up to one's perception...I went from an '04 with only heated seats to my '16 with heated and ventilated seats. To me, I can definitely feel the air flow - especially on the third setting (high). It's enough to provide that extra comfort and keep the ass and back sweat away. But GM does not have "cooled" seats. They are ventilated seats only where a fan underneath merely blows cabin air through the seat. I'm not familiar with the range of the seat fan power in Ford or Dodge applications...but it sounds like it's much more powerful than GM... Back to your original question - the seats would have to be perforated for ventilation to be an option, so if they are not, don't even bother. If they are, and you want it to look factory, you will obviously have to have the wiring in place, source the factory dash switches, etc., and more than likely the dealer will have to re-flash the computer for everything to work once it's all hooked up. Another option may be just figure out a way to run power and aftermarket switches to the fan motors. Maybe this would work? Not sure? Just my two cents...good luck...
They do cast a fair amount of angled light on either sides of the truck. Take a look at the last pic on my original starting post. That pic is taken from the drivers seat looking back through the side mirror... But you need to do this simple mod if you want more light down the sides of a trailer...assuming you have the towing mirrors with the LED lights? Now these LEDs in the mirrors will come on every time you put it reverse... Under the drivers dash, locate the Body Control Module (BCM). Install a diode (jumper) between the two pins (see pic below). Jump from the brown BCM pin (brown/blue wire) to the second from left pin in the pic (brown/white wire) of the "pink" BCM. The gray stripe on the diode must be on the "pink" side. Simply push it in approx 3/8" to 1/2" deep. The diode is a Radio Shack part Number 1N4004. I believe a 2-pack is about $2.00.
EJCarter replied to shadow gray 2020 hd's topic in 6.6L Duramax Diesel & Allison Powertrain (L5P/MGM)Did you look in to the Genuine GM Extended Protection Plan? I would assume it's available for the 2020's? It can be purchased anytime prior to the factory warranty ending... I purchased the platinum package for my 2016 just before my factory bumper to bumper 3 year / 36K warranty ended. There are multiple term / mileage packages available to suit your needs. A good place to start is knappvehicleservicecontracts.com. A large volume GM dealer that has an easy to use website regarding the GMPP Extended Warranty. They can give you a quote based on your plan of choice. You simply enter your VIN. These plans are obviously negotiable. I wanted to give my local dealer a shot...and surprisingly, their initial starting prices were lower than the larger volume dealers. And after a little more haggling, we got the price down even further - paying cash for an even longer term / mileage warranty...
I'm running the washer type extenders. These mount on top of the shock. I don't know if there is an advantage to one over the other as they both accomplish the same thing. The stud thread length does not seem to be an issue. It sits just flush with the top of the new lock nut. I've been running these for a little over 4 years with no issues... Mine came from Central Coast Motorsports (ccmoffroad.com). I purchased their leveling kit which came with keys, UCAs, diff drop spacers, and the shock extenders, but they do sell just the shock extenders for $15.00. See pics below...
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