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EJCarter

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About EJCarter

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  • Name
    Eric
  • Location
    California
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2016 2500HD Duramax Denali CCSB 4x4

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  1. I would guess whatever brand of monitor you are using is not reading the boost correctly. This may sound stupid, but is it now set to diesel if you were using it for a gas motor before? Is the internal firm wear up to date with the latest version? If your truck was only producing 8 lbs of max boost, you would have very little usable power throughout the entire RPM range... I have a CTS2 monitor that also receives its data from the OBDII port...boost is one of the PIDs I have selected and I'll see it up to the 30's under heavy acceleration or heavy loads. It has been noted on this and other forums that OBDII data may not be 100% accurate, especially when dealing with EGTs for example. These are more accurate with probes installed and linked to the CTS2 with additional optional equipment from the manufacture. The accuracy through the OBDII will be close enough for normal monitoring should a problem arise and you see numbers, values, percentages, etc...moving in the wrong direction. But again, I would think it's your monitor as opposed to the data being sent to it...
  2. Yes, mine is a '16...same as yours, so you will have no issues...
  3. Yes, but I can only confirm Diode #2 is for the "LED lights in the mirror to come on in reverse", as I have done this mod to my truck. It has worked with no issues for the last couple years. You may just want to confirm if the pin numbers (diode locations) are the same for your 2019. I wouldn't think it would change from 2016, but you never know??? I personally can't confirm Diode #1 "fogs with parking lamps" as I have not done this mod to my truck. I was only assuming it was based on a previous post within this thread...
  4. Diodes to use are Radio Shack (part number 1N4004)...when I picked up mine, they had a 2-Pack for about $2.00. For the LED lights in the mirrors to come on when in reverse, jump from the top upper brown BCM pin to the top second from left pin of the "pink" BCM. The gray stripe on the diode must be on the "pink" side (when I say top, I am referring to the pics above as I can't recall pin numbers). I have done this and mine matches the pics... The "fogs with parking lamps" jumper must be within the brown BCM. From the pic above, the diode appears to be placed within this BCM only. I'm not familiar with this as I don't have this set up...
  5. m3n: I was able to get mine for $2800 with $100 deductible. I believe it was approx $3500 for the $0 deductible plan (after looking at my contract, it's actually for 84 months / 100K miles, not 72 months). Keep in mind, there are many plans available (months / miles) a different price points to best suit your needs... Batman900: Yes, mine is a GM warranty. I am also aware of dealerships offering third party warranty's and, I agree, definitely wanted to stay away from those. Mine is the General Motors Extended Protection Plan (GMEPP) Platinum. Now this still isn't as good as the factory warranty, but covers almost everything. They also offered a Silver Plan that was a little cheaper, but covers much less. These GM Warranty's are good at any GM dealership, so you are covered while traveling... Regarding the warranty time frame vs. the factory warranty...I'm only going by what I was told by multiple dealers, which all stated the same thing. Whatever your current mileage is they punch into the computer. It computes what you added. If you have 23 miles on the vehicle when purchased new, and decide to buy a GMEPP, they enter the 23 miles and date purchased on the contract...therefore, you are good until 100,023 miles (if purchasing the 100K plan). I purchased my 100K extension at just under 34K miles at my local dealership (they were the cheapest), and my contract states it is good till just under 134,000 miles / Nov 2025. They also confirmed it pays to wait and not purchase these at time of delivery as it "extends" you further. You just have to pay in full for the extended warranty at time of purchase as opposed to adding it to your payment if you purchased it when purchasing the truck. Again, I'm only going by what I was told by the multiple dealerships I checked prices with...
  6. That press release deals with purchasing a couple more years from the standard 3 year / 36K mile warranty when the vehicle is purchased new... But like lapoolboy states above, you can purchase an extended warranty through your dealer (or any GM Dealer) for your vehicle. The price jumps considerably if you are over 36K miles, or past 3 years after taking delivery, or both. I just purchased GM's Platinum Coverage Plan for another 7 year / 100K for my truck as I was getting close to the 3 year / 36K, but was under both. The better news of waiting to purchase when I did as opposed to when buying the vehicle new... My new extended warranty is good until 134,000 miles and /or Nov 2025... The extended warranty starts from the moment it was purchased. If I purchased this same warranty when I bought the truck, it would end at 100K miles and / or early 2023 as it runs concurrently with the factory warranty...even though it can't be used. Don't hesitate to negotiate prices with multiple dealers. They want to sell you this product as it is typically a money maker for them, not us. So wheel and deal just like we do on the purchase price of the vehicle...
  7. LED Replacement bulbs

    I installed these from Rigid and tapped into the back-up light wires just above...and now have plenty of light...
  8. Have you tried to re-sync (reset) them? ...like if one is manually pushed in and now they are out of sync. Don't know if this will help with your problem, but it's always worth a try before replacing a motor... The reset process seemed relatively...but I can't remember if I saw it on this forum or the Duramax Forum? Or, possibly it's in the owners manual?
  9. This was more of a common issue with GM trucks years ago (look up Chevy Shake on this forum and on the Duramax Forum) if you are not aware. GM did get better with it, but it still does pop up, as it did with me when I purchased my truck a couple years ago. My issue ended up being tire related. The stock car-like Goodyears could not be balanced. The dealer warrantied those at about 6K miles and I upgraded to BFG KO2s...which did correct my issue. I'm now almost at 30K and the vibration has not returned.
  10. Leveling Photos

    CCM Leveling Kit (UCAs, Diff Drop, Shock Spacers, and Keys) - Raised about 2". See pics below (pics were taken prior to the install of the Bilstein's - still had the cheap factory Rancho's at that time...
  11. Best level

    If we choose to level or lift, I'm a firm believer in purchasing a quality engineered kit from a reputable manufacture. We invest a lot of money in these trucks, so, in my opinion, spend a little more now and it may save you in the long run (or leave it alone...na, we can't do that...ha, ha). The engineered leveling kits with UCA, diff drops, shock extensions, etc...will keep our front geometry as close to factory specs as possible. Remember, it won't obviuosly be at the factory spec..this is one of the reasons our ride stiffens. It also increases CV angles and tie rod angles. It also adds a little more stress to the idler and pitman arms. Aftermarket UCAs do keep the ball joints happier and increase the droop stop distance. These, in my opinion, are a must with leveling kits. The more you crank on the keys, the more stresses you impose on on the parts and the CV angles widen...and the ride gets worse. In order to be as close to factory specs and maintain them, a lift kit is necessary. But these cost more up front and some do require cutting and welding for installation...which make these permanent... If you know the pro's and con's of each, you can make an informed decision. You may end up replacing a few components a little earlier down the road with a leveling kit. If you are ok with this...go for the leveling kit. This is what I did. I also have my alignment re-checked along with rotating and RoadForce Balancing the tires every 10K miles. This confirms to me everything is staying tight on the front end. I've had my leveling kit on since about 6K miles and I'm almost at 30K now. Everything is good up front. No accelerated wear. I'm only cranked to raise about 2". The ride is slightly stiffer than stock. The Bilstein shocks ride much better than the stock cheap Rancho's... I'm running a kit from Central Coast Motorsports (ccmoffroad.com). They are a small shop in the Central Coast of California...they manufacture their own which keeps cost down. Check them out. The pic of CCMs UCA is when I still had the cheap Rancho's on my truck...
  12. Has anyone seen this before? Recently, after starting the truck, I had a message pop up on the center screen to "Service Front Camera". It also had the dismiss button at the bottom. I didn't touch anything and it slowly faded away, but it got me thinking...hmm...maybe it's pre-wired for a front camera. I've had the truck since it was new and this message has never popped up before. We can't be this lucky???
  13. Cognito is a good kit and I was headed that direction before I purchased mine, but decided to go see Danny at CCM. Years ago, I purchased some things from CCM as was very happy with them and their products. I am local in the area so it's easy for me to go by their shop. I have read on other posts that some Cognito UCAs were coming apart with welding issues. Some had great warranty support...others didn't. But regardless, they still had to replace the part. I also have known numerous people that have purchased CCM products. There has never been an issue...I also like the fact I am close if I need them... The Edge is a CTS2...monitor only.... Similar to you, my last truck was a '04 LLY. I had gauges on the A Pillar. I too had to learn the new technology with these new trucks. This is plug-n-play and plugs into the OBD2 port under the dash. I also purchased a center console mount from ProFormance Diesel in Bakersfield (pro-formancediesel.com). Plugged into the OBD2 port is not as accurate for EGT, but it does give me a close number for trending. It is expandable where you can add different sensors for more accurate results, but I chose not to go that far. Not really needed for me as I'm not deleting either...or doing any engine / tranny mods... Here is a pic of my CTS2 in the Pro-Formance center console mount. You have to remove the stock rubber "card holder" and cut a hole for the CTS2 cable. From there, it easily snakes through the extended floor console and over to the OBD2 port. If you need to return it to stock, simply remove the center console mount and replace your stock rubber card holder. There are company's that do make CTS2 mounts for the A Pillar if you choose...
  14. Welcome to the Forum... For your leveling kit, check out Central Coast Motorsports in San Luis Obispo, Ca (ccmoffroad.com). There not too far south of you. They are a small shop and build manufacture there own products, which keeps the price down. I've had their leveling kit on my '16 Denali for about a year and half...no issues. If your going to level, I'm a firm believer in buying a full kit (CCM's or any reputable manufacture) that consists of Upper Control Arms, Diff Drop Spacers, Keys, and Shock Extensions (or replacement shocks). You can just crank the stock keys and align it...but you will wear parts prematurely...like ball joints, idler and pitman arms, etc. An engineered kit keeps things closer to our factory spec. Don't over-crank the keys or your CV angles really get away from being happy. Or, you can purchase the full lift kit...these will keep angles much closer to the factory spec... I'm running slightly below "true level" and my tire size has no rubbing issues, nor did I have to trim anything. But I am on the stock 20" wheels and BFG states these tires are 34" tall. I'm sure others can respond on the tire size you want with your rim spec's... Here is a pic of CCMs UCA if you want to compare to other reputable manufactures...
  15. Engine bay lights

    I would prefer to hook up to the battery so you are not cutting into a wire loom and splicing to an existing wire. Seems much easier to crimp on an eyelet on each wire from the light, cover in shrink tubing, and install on the battery. Then cover the wire in split loom for protection (and factory look)...I would also use an in-line fuse prior to whatever switch you chose (manual, magnetic, "mercury" style, etc...)
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