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EJCarter

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About EJCarter

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  1. I had the same problem on my 2016 and it was fixed about six weeks ago... Mine started out as the intermittent red line through the GPS and no compass on the center dash, but the Navigation still worked. Eventually it Nav started to fail also by showed me tracking off the road a little, but all would occasionally return to normal. After about six months, Nav was completely wrong, and red line was through the GPS and compass was gone (not intermittent - complete failure). I first checked with an OnStar tech by calling in and they gave me a generic code of a fault in their system (can't recall code number) and to take it to the dealer for repair. Prior to that, I looked up that code and it comes back as the Onstar Module behind the Infotainment screen or the antenna. Knowing their have been years of issues with water intrusion in the antenna, I figured it was the issue. But, the good news for me is I've never had any leakage in the cab like I know so many others have had. I stopped by the dealer...the service manage stepped up on the side of the truck and wiggled the antenna. Water oozed out and it hadn't rained in a few days. He knew the gasket had failed and water shorted out the antenna. They ordered a replacement (didn't have my color in stock) and swapped it a couple days later. Problem fixed. No issues since.
  2. Check out Central Coast Motorsports (ccmoffroad.com). Their leveling kit is $550 and includes UCA, keys, shock spacers, and diff drop spacers (diff drop is sold separately, but included in the $550 price). I have been running it for about three and half years...no issues. I sit just below level and it rides just a little stiffer than stock. The ride did get much better when I later added the bilstein shocks and got rid of the stock junk rancho's. Shocks are not included in the above price. I ran 275/65R20 BFG KO2 tires, but they were a little small / narrow in my opinion - especially with the level kit. It was time for new tires and I just put on 285/65R20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers about three weeks ago. This size looks a lot better - tiny bit taller and tiny bit wider. Both sets of tires were / are on the factory wheels. No rubbing with the larger size as of now, but I haven't put them in any extreme angles yet either - but there seems to be plenty of room. Attached pics are with the older 275 tires, CCM UCAs (before I installed the bilstein's), and my CV angles...
  3. Just FYI if there is interest... CCM sells just the diff drop spacers too. They will fit 2011-present 2500/3500 trucks. Works with all brands of leveling or lift kits. It comes with (4) spacers, (4) longer bolts, and washers. $45.00. There are quite a few good reviews where adding these spacers eliminated the vibration. www.ccmoffroad.com
  4. You might try contacting Phil Gamboa...www.harnessdr.com...he is the guru for GM electrical / mods.
  5. I have seen threads on this form and the Duramax Forum where numerous people have installed manufactured LED strip running lights in this location or made their own by purchasing a quality weather-proof roll of LED lights and cut to the desired length. Tapping these ultra low draw LED to the location of your choice should not create any issues (under bed rail or inside tool boxes for example). Some have run the wires into the cab through the rubber grommets just on the back side of that body seam and tapped them into the dome light wire (to illuminate the running board with the key fob, door open, and fade off), others have tapped them into the back of the trailer plug (to be used as running lights), or purchase the adapter as stated from Coolade above and tie into your tail lights...it just depends how you want them illuminated. I saw where a guy drilled small 3/4" holes in the running board supporting brackets and installed flush mount round LEDs in each bracket to illuminate the running boards when the doors where open...pretty clean. A couple years ago, I installed Rigid Back Up Lights in the bumper steps and tapped into the back up light wire just above behind each tail light. I have never had any issues by adding these. In fact, the dealer where I purchased my truck saw what I did and now will custom install these through their parts dept. I believe your service writer might just not know the big picture...
  6. Did the Cognito kit come with diff drop spacers? If not, I would add these. It will lower the diff a little which will decrease your CV angle... Pic is one of my rear spacers...
  7. My def heater was replaced a few months ago by the dealer under warranty. I had to wait a few weeks for the part as there was a nationwide back order. The dealer initially cleared the code, which cleared the check engine light, but it came back a few days later. I asked them that same question...will it go into limp mode? At that time, we didn't know how long the back order on the heater would last. They said no..it shouldn't for this single issue. I wasn't too confident in their answer. They hadn't seen one go limp from a def heater issue only. I was able to clear the code using my CTS Insight. It returned a few times during the next couple weeks until the part arrived and was replaced. I've had no issues since... You should be able to clear your code and check engine light using a code reader from any large auto parts chain store...
  8. My truck does it every time I hook up a trailer if the truck is running. If the truck is not running when I hook up a trailer, it never does it. Give this a try if you haven't and see if it corrects the issue...
  9. I had the same P21DD code come up about three months ago. My dealer ran the check and the DEF heater / pump assembly would need to be replaced...but it was on a nationwide back order. They cleared the code and let me know they would call when the part came in (they had 10 on order as a couple other trucks had the same code and needed the same part, plus they wanted some in stock). Approx a month later, they received a few heater / pump assemblies and replaced mine. During that month wait, my check engine light did come back on a few times. I asked the dealer about the truck going into limp mode. They said there is a chance, but it should be a rare occasion from this issue. I wasn't too confident in their answer. They also stated, like Hillwood stated above, it will come up on the DIC and give you a number of miles before going limp...I think they said like a 50 mile "warning." The dealer also knows I have a CTS2 monitor that will run and clear codes. They said to clear it if it returns. This will keep from driving it too long with an active code (CEL), thus reducing the chance of it going into limp mode. I never had any limp issues, limp warnings, etc...and my CEL was off when I took it in for replacement. Since it's been replaced, no further CELs have come up... I would confirm your closest dealer has the part in stock. If so, see if they can put one aside for you so you don't waste a trip. If they don't have any in stock, see if they can order some now... It should only take about an hour or two to replace if they have a good diesel mechanic. I wouldn't worry too much about the limp mode. It sounds like you were able to read your code ? If that's the only code you are seeing, I'd clear it. If it comes up again, confirm it's the same P21DD and clear it again... And yes, this part is covered under warranty. GM is having so many problems with our DEF / emission system, they extended the warranty on it. I believe I heard it was 10 years /125K miles...but double check that...
  10. I would guess whatever brand of monitor you are using is not reading the boost correctly. This may sound stupid, but is it now set to diesel if you were using it for a gas motor before? Is the internal firm wear up to date with the latest version? If your truck was only producing 8 lbs of max boost, you would have very little usable power throughout the entire RPM range... I have a CTS2 monitor that also receives its data from the OBDII port...boost is one of the PIDs I have selected and I'll see it up to the 30's under heavy acceleration or heavy loads. It has been noted on this and other forums that OBDII data may not be 100% accurate, especially when dealing with EGTs for example. These are more accurate with probes installed and linked to the CTS2 with additional optional equipment from the manufacture. The accuracy through the OBDII will be close enough for normal monitoring should a problem arise and you see numbers, values, percentages, etc...moving in the wrong direction. But again, I would think it's your monitor as opposed to the data being sent to it...
  11. Yes, mine is a '16...same as yours, so you will have no issues...
  12. Yes, but I can only confirm Diode #2 is for the "LED lights in the mirror to come on in reverse", as I have done this mod to my truck. It has worked with no issues for the last couple years. You may just want to confirm if the pin numbers (diode locations) are the same for your 2019. I wouldn't think it would change from 2016, but you never know??? I personally can't confirm Diode #1 "fogs with parking lamps" as I have not done this mod to my truck. I was only assuming it was based on a previous post within this thread...
  13. Diodes to use are Radio Shack (part number 1N4004)...when I picked up mine, they had a 2-Pack for about $2.00. For the LED lights in the mirrors to come on when in reverse, jump from the top upper brown BCM pin to the top second from left pin of the "pink" BCM. The gray stripe on the diode must be on the "pink" side (when I say top, I am referring to the pics above as I can't recall pin numbers). I have done this and mine matches the pics... The "fogs with parking lamps" jumper must be within the brown BCM. From the pic above, the diode appears to be placed within this BCM only. I'm not familiar with this as I don't have this set up...
  14. m3n: I was able to get mine for $2800 with $100 deductible. I believe it was approx $3500 for the $0 deductible plan (after looking at my contract, it's actually for 84 months / 100K miles, not 72 months). Keep in mind, there are many plans available (months / miles) a different price points to best suit your needs... Batman900: Yes, mine is a GM warranty. I am also aware of dealerships offering third party warranty's and, I agree, definitely wanted to stay away from those. Mine is the General Motors Extended Protection Plan (GMEPP) Platinum. Now this still isn't as good as the factory warranty, but covers almost everything. They also offered a Silver Plan that was a little cheaper, but covers much less. These GM Warranty's are good at any GM dealership, so you are covered while traveling... Regarding the warranty time frame vs. the factory warranty...I'm only going by what I was told by multiple dealers, which all stated the same thing. Whatever your current mileage is they punch into the computer. It computes what you added. If you have 23 miles on the vehicle when purchased new, and decide to buy a GMEPP, they enter the 23 miles and date purchased on the contract...therefore, you are good until 100,023 miles (if purchasing the 100K plan). I purchased my 100K extension at just under 34K miles at my local dealership (they were the cheapest), and my contract states it is good till just under 134,000 miles / Nov 2025. They also confirmed it pays to wait and not purchase these at time of delivery as it "extends" you further. You just have to pay in full for the extended warranty at time of purchase as opposed to adding it to your payment if you purchased it when purchasing the truck. Again, I'm only going by what I was told by the multiple dealerships I checked prices with...
  15. That press release deals with purchasing a couple more years from the standard 3 year / 36K mile warranty when the vehicle is purchased new... But like lapoolboy states above, you can purchase an extended warranty through your dealer (or any GM Dealer) for your vehicle. The price jumps considerably if you are over 36K miles, or past 3 years after taking delivery, or both. I just purchased GM's Platinum Coverage Plan for another 7 year / 100K for my truck as I was getting close to the 3 year / 36K, but was under both. The better news of waiting to purchase when I did as opposed to when buying the vehicle new... My new extended warranty is good until 134,000 miles and /or Nov 2025... The extended warranty starts from the moment it was purchased. If I purchased this same warranty when I bought the truck, it would end at 100K miles and / or early 2023 as it runs concurrently with the factory warranty...even though it can't be used. Don't hesitate to negotiate prices with multiple dealers. They want to sell you this product as it is typically a money maker for them, not us. So wheel and deal just like we do on the purchase price of the vehicle...
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