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EJCarter

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Everything posted by EJCarter

  1. For those looking for high quality transmission cooler protection in our front bumpers, I recently installed one made by Mountains 2 Metal. I am very impressed. They are Made in the USA, powder coated over stainless, have multiple designs available for GMC's or Chevy's (or your own custom design or logo can be sent to them to be cut), and are very easily installed all from the front. I know there are concerns with these decreasing the airflow to our cooler and increasing tranny temps. I installed this a few months ago and have not noticed any increase on my tranny temp on my CTS2...towing
  2. Much smoother ride. Here is a specific example...there is a section on the freeway that I drive going home from work with a fairly large transition (bump) on a bridge over-crossing. With the old Rancho's, I definitely felt it. It would rattle the truck. When I put the Bilstein's on, the bump was basically gone. I initially thought the road was fixed. But this is California - we don't really fix our roads even though we pay for it in our fuel tax and registration fee's... Also, I noticed and increase in handling - much less body roll...
  3. The Bilsteins do offer a much better ride than the stock Rancho's. I put the leveling kit on my truck at approx. 6K miles and left the stock Rancho's on. At about 10K miles, I put on the Bilsteins. The ride quality definitely improved. If tire rub won't be an issue, you may consider slightly de-cranking the torsion bars. Lowering the front end just a little, like a 1/4" will decrease the preload on the bars and this will also improve ride quality.
  4. Welcome to the "Rigid Lights in Bumper Step" family. I did mine a few years ago...No issues...Plenty of good additional lighting where its needed without washing out the back up camera. Nice job on your install!!! I like the clean look of the switch on your dash. I simply hooked mine up to the factory back-up light wiring, so they come on anytime I'm in reverse. I too made the multiple measurements behind the step. The depth of the light housing caused initial concerns of contacting the truck body. The outside edge placement gave me the confidence there would be enoug
  5. I had something very similar when my truck was new...obviously your headliner is a tad longer than what they comes in a truck, but I'm sure it's still secured the same way. I had that very annoying rattle that bugs the ****** out of you. Mine seemed to be coming from above and behind my seat in the overhead. Mostly on the freeway, but also in town over certain bumps. After a little troubleshooting, the headliner felt more solid on the passenger side as compared to the drivers side around the sunroof. I just started pushing up on the headliner, starting at the front corner of the sunroof (
  6. I'm running CCM upper control arms. No issues in over 4 years (pic was taken before I put on the Bilstein Shocks) ccmoffroad.com
  7. I'm a firm believer in purchasing a quality engineered leveling kit from a reputable manufacture. We invest a lot of money in these trucks, so, spend a little more now and it may save you in the long run. The kit needs to include UCAs, keys, diff drop spacers, and shock extensions. You can run your stock shocks, but since ride quality is something you are looking for, replacing the stock shocks with a quality aftermarket shock should also be included on your list. You must remember any leveling kit will stiffen the ride up front. In simple terms, we are “lifting” our trucks by incr
  8. A jumper wire is installed the same way a diode is installed at the BCM. The diode only allows the current (electricity) to flow in one direction where a wire will allow it to flow in both directions... For example - Hotwheel used a wire and wanted his bed lights to come on anytime his interior lights were on, which this accomplished. But since the electricity can flow in both directions, when (or if) he uses the bed light switch in the cab, his interior lights will come on too. If a diode is used and placed the correct way (interior lights to bed lights), the bed lights will come
  9. I guess it's up to one's perception...I went from an '04 with only heated seats to my '16 with heated and ventilated seats. To me, I can definitely feel the air flow - especially on the third setting (high). It's enough to provide that extra comfort and keep the ass and back sweat away. But GM does not have "cooled" seats. They are ventilated seats only where a fan underneath merely blows cabin air through the seat. I'm not familiar with the range of the seat fan power in Ford or Dodge applications...but it sounds like it's much more powerful than GM... Back to your or
  10. They do cast a fair amount of angled light on either sides of the truck. Take a look at the last pic on my original starting post. That pic is taken from the drivers seat looking back through the side mirror... But you need to do this simple mod if you want more light down the sides of a trailer...assuming you have the towing mirrors with the LED lights? Now these LEDs in the mirrors will come on every time you put it reverse... Under the drivers dash, locate the Body Control Module (BCM). Install a diode (jumper) between the two pins (see pic below). Jump from the brown BCM pin (bro
  11. Did you look in to the Genuine GM Extended Protection Plan? I would assume it's available for the 2020's? It can be purchased anytime prior to the factory warranty ending... I purchased the platinum package for my 2016 just before my factory bumper to bumper 3 year / 36K warranty ended. There are multiple term / mileage packages available to suit your needs. A good place to start is knappvehicleservicecontracts.com. A large volume GM dealer that has an easy to use website regarding the GMPP Extended Warranty. They can give you a quote based on your plan of choice. You simply enter your V
  12. I figured with a name like Icutmetl you'd be looking at making your own...ha, ha...but you're right - probably cheaper to buy'em...
  13. I'm running the washer type extenders. These mount on top of the shock. I don't know if there is an advantage to one over the other as they both accomplish the same thing. The stud thread length does not seem to be an issue. It sits just flush with the top of the new lock nut. I've been running these for a little over 4 years with no issues... Mine came from Central Coast Motorsports (ccmoffroad.com). I purchased their leveling kit which came with keys, UCAs, diff drop spacers, and the shock extenders, but they do sell just the shock extenders for $15.00. See pics below...
  14. Here are a couple pics. You can see the small lense of the light, but the black housing blends in pretty well to the plastic housing...especially the further away you are...
  15. I crimped on a small ring to the ground wire and attached it to a screw on the bottom outside edge of the bumper...
  16. Rolling back that far seems excessive in my opinion. My '16 does roll back about a small amount on a slight slope, but using the e-brake before putting it in park will stop this. The greater the slope, the more the truck will move, but still not as excessive as you state. Maybe your e-brake needs to be adjusted? Try this next time...hook one of your tailgate support cables over the tailgate latch pin on the bed. This will temporarily hold your tailgate at an approx. 45 degree angle. Now your rear camera is looking directly down at your ball and hitch, thus making the alignment much
  17. Regarding the popping - if they are Moog ball joints, they had a bad batch that prematurely failed. I had a slight popping noise while hitting bumps, but it was only coming from the right side. I took it back to the manufacturer of my leveling kit who informed me of the ball joint problem. They ended up warranting both Moog ball joints that came in their UCAs and the popping stopped - and has not returned... Regarding the slight bang - when we installed my leveling kit, I initially had a slight banging noise that could be heard and felt as a sharp vibration in the floor over certai
  18. Awesome idea 737Mechanic !!! I will take a pair if you are willing to make more as you spoke about in your video. I do not have access to a 3D printer. We can private message each other the details...payment, shipping, etc... Nice job...
  19. Check out Highway Products. They have multiple styles, finishes, and colors available. They are a little pricey, but you definitely get what you pay for. They come with a lifetime warranty, are made from 1/8" thick aluminum, have an automotive door style weather seal, and all the hardware (piano hinge, lock set, lock rods, etc.) are all stainless... They custom built my box about 3.5 years ago. I had them build it a little narrower to suit my needs. It is a satin black powder coat finish to somewhat match the the black plastic bed rails covers and factory spray in bed liner. The to
  20. Now, I didn't say it was simple to get the rear of the factory fog lights, it was just simple to twist out the bulb housing turning it a quarter turn once I got to it. Believe me, this is much easier than removing the wheel liner. I started with this option first as I read a thread (can't remember if it was this forum or Duramax Diesel) as that's what the consensus was stating at that time too. After removing all the wheel liner screws and plastic fender molding screws (the wheel liner is tucked under), it still wouldn't budge. If my memory is correct (this was a few years ago), the fender mol
  21. I'm not sure if this will work for the T1, but a clean look is mounting Rigid Ignite Back-Up Lights in the rear bumper step. I did this on my 2016. If they don't fit inside the step, maybe they'll fit on the flat plastic that is more flush with the bumper. They do require a couple inches of clearance behind them... I installed mine about three years ago and have had no issues. They are each connected separately to the factory back-up light wiring directly above... They put out a tremendous amount of light for their small size. I believe someone asked if they will light
  22. Fog light bulbs can be replaced without bumper removal. From the back side of each light housing, simply twist out the factory bulb socket and swap the bulb with your desired replacement. You may consider removing the small bumper support behind each fog light to make a little more room for your hand...it is a little tight in there. I replaced my stock fog light bulbs with Xenon Depot Xtreme LED CMB Bulbs. A set of 2 was about $50.00. These provided much more crisper light output that you could actually tell were on. I am very happy with these. I couldn't even tell if the stock fog
  23. This happened to me once about 2 or 3 years ago. Mine didn't have anything to do with park assist being disabled as it wasn't at the time. I was curious too at that time as I was sure we didn't have front camera wiring installed during the build. I believe I also posted this on another forum - hoping that we had the factory wiring in place for a simple camera add...obviously that's was a nope... Mine has never come up again...chalked it up to some electronic glitch...
  24. I had the same problem on my 2016 and it was fixed about six weeks ago... Mine started out as the intermittent red line through the GPS and no compass on the center dash, but the Navigation still worked. Eventually it Nav started to fail also by showed me tracking off the road a little, but all would occasionally return to normal. After about six months, Nav was completely wrong, and red line was through the GPS and compass was gone (not intermittent - complete failure). I first checked with an OnStar tech by calling in and they gave me a generic code of a fault in their system (can't rec
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