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EJCarter

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Everything posted by EJCarter

  1. My intention was to pass on info to my fellow truck enthusiasts. I completely understand GMs marketing thoughts to advertise a new product to the half ton pickup market, but I’m just trying to keep those customers from being frustrated when they order a pickup with Super Cruise. It is not available and their orders will either be delayed if accepted and could be dropped at a future date without notice. Constraints wreak havoc on the vehicle ordering process. They are percentage driven. Super Cruise is 100% constrained…meaning it is currently not available for any vehicles. Super Cruise was earlier released on some GM models. Again, those that have it seem to be a fan. I’m not one to say good or bad things about it. We have been in the market for a new Escalade. I’ve talked to our local Cadillac Dealer and I’ve followed numerous others build frustrations on Cadillac Forums. This is where I got my info regarding Super Cruise. Again, I just wanted to pass this on to my fellow truck buddies and hopefully save some frustrations if someone orders too early. If someone is interested in Super Cruise for the 1500 pickup market, just do your own research on availability so you can be fully educated…
  2. Being available on 2022 models and being on constraint are two different things. GM has stated the constraint will more than likely not be released again until April 2022. There was an earlier release on other GM models (Cadillac), but again, that has stopped. Super Cruise will be a great product. Those that have it seem to love it. It was supposed be be standard on all ‘22 Escalade’s. Again, it’s on constraint - meaning it’s currently not available. I just personally don’t think it’s correct to advertise a product they know is not available, nor can your currently order a vehicle with that option…
  3. Not impressed with GM’s new ad campaign for the new trucks…we will rock you… Really? Advertising a product (Super Cruise) that was once released and now is on constraint (not available) until at least April 2022. Try ordering a super cruise equipped vehicle and see what happens…your order is cancelled or given a code that will not be built until that constraint released… Is this the new business model in a pandemic world?
  4. For those looking for high quality transmission cooler protection in our front bumpers, I recently installed one made by Mountains 2 Metal. I am very impressed. They are Made in the USA, powder coated over stainless, have multiple designs available for GMC's or Chevy's (or your own custom design or logo can be sent to them to be cut), and are very easily installed all from the front. I know there are concerns with these decreasing the airflow to our cooler and increasing tranny temps. I installed this a few months ago and have not noticed any increase on my tranny temp on my CTS2...towing or not. The individual openings are a little more on the larger side, but I believe this allows for the more air flow - keeping the tranny happy. M2Ms protection is better than nothing at all - that big giant open hole in our bumpers!!! Here's a couple pics...
  5. Much smoother ride. Here is a specific example...there is a section on the freeway that I drive going home from work with a fairly large transition (bump) on a bridge over-crossing. With the old Rancho's, I definitely felt it. It would rattle the truck. When I put the Bilstein's on, the bump was basically gone. I initially thought the road was fixed. But this is California - we don't really fix our roads even though we pay for it in our fuel tax and registration fee's... Also, I noticed and increase in handling - much less body roll...
  6. The Bilsteins do offer a much better ride than the stock Rancho's. I put the leveling kit on my truck at approx. 6K miles and left the stock Rancho's on. At about 10K miles, I put on the Bilsteins. The ride quality definitely improved. If tire rub won't be an issue, you may consider slightly de-cranking the torsion bars. Lowering the front end just a little, like a 1/4" will decrease the preload on the bars and this will also improve ride quality.
  7. Welcome to the "Rigid Lights in Bumper Step" family. I did mine a few years ago...No issues...Plenty of good additional lighting where its needed without washing out the back up camera. Nice job on your install!!! I like the clean look of the switch on your dash. I simply hooked mine up to the factory back-up light wiring, so they come on anytime I'm in reverse. I too made the multiple measurements behind the step. The depth of the light housing caused initial concerns of contacting the truck body. The outside edge placement gave me the confidence there would be enough clearance. I made a template out of the Rigid Lights packaging cardboard and taped this to back of the step. This aligned the three pilot holes for initial drilling (center for the 1.75" hole saw and the two outside holes for the mounting screws). The upper washers and nuts are a ******! I was able to get them on with long angled needle nose pliers. It was tight, and after I got the first ones on, I had to have a beer and "drink" about the next one. It took awhile, but I got them on. I might have had a few more beers!!! See pics below... Template I made, cut hole and light installed (same as the OP), light output from a distance, and light output looking back thru the drivers side mirror...
  8. I had something very similar when my truck was new...obviously your headliner is a tad longer than what they comes in a truck, but I'm sure it's still secured the same way. I had that very annoying rattle that bugs the ****** out of you. Mine seemed to be coming from above and behind my seat in the overhead. Mostly on the freeway, but also in town over certain bumps. After a little troubleshooting, the headliner felt more solid on the passenger side as compared to the drivers side around the sunroof. I just started pushing up on the headliner, starting at the front corner of the sunroof (above the drivers seat) and it clicked in. It took quite a bit of force, but it popped in...I worked it towards the rear of the sunroof...another click. The headliner on the drivers side now felt solid like it did on the passenger side...and that annoying rattle was gone... This may or may not be what is causing your issue? But, if it is, this simple fix might help...
  9. I'm running CCM upper control arms. No issues in over 4 years (pic was taken before I put on the Bilstein Shocks) ccmoffroad.com
  10. I'm a firm believer in purchasing a quality engineered leveling kit from a reputable manufacture. We invest a lot of money in these trucks, so, spend a little more now and it may save you in the long run. The kit needs to include UCAs, keys, diff drop spacers, and shock extensions. You can run your stock shocks, but since ride quality is something you are looking for, replacing the stock shocks with a quality aftermarket shock should also be included on your list. You must remember any leveling kit will stiffen the ride up front. In simple terms, we are “lifting” our trucks by increasing the load on the torsion bar. The more we crank on the keys, or “lift”, the stiffer the ride. The UCAs, diff drop spacers, shock extensions, and re-indexed keys all work together to compensate all these angles we’ve just changed by trying to get them back to the factory specs…or as close to factory specs as possible. Again, the more you crank, the stiffer the ride, and the harder it is to bring it back to factory specs. As long as you know all the facts, do some research, purchase a quality designed kit, and don’t over-crank “lift,” a leveling kit is a good alternative to a true lift kit. But, if you truly want the best ride and do want to maintain all the factory specs, there is nothing better than a quality engineered lift kit. It will cost way more up front, and most require cutting and welding for installation, thus making them more permanent, but, again, nothing is better. I’m running a CCM Leveling Kit (Central Coast Motorsports) on my truck. I’m only cranked to raise the front about 2”. The ride did slightly stiffen, but to me it’s more truck like. The rear is stock. I am just slightly lower in the front, but I wanted to get rid of the factory stink bug look, so I didn’t raise the rear. I ran the stock Rancho shocks for a little while, but as soon as I put the Bilstein’s on, the ride was much better. The stock shocks are junk…and they were still new. I put this kit on when the truck had approx. 6K miles (replaced the shocks at 10K). I’m at approx. 50K on the truck now and have had no issues. All the ball joints are tight, the CV angles are good (that is what the diff drop spacers are for), no wear with the stock idler or pitman arms, etc. I do rotate tires and re-inspect alignment every 10K just to make sure everything remains tight. I also ran a leveling kit on my previous truck, an ’04 LLY. I had it for the 12 years and put about 180K miles on it. Never any big issues with the kit. I did have to replace the idler, pitman arms, and ball joints a few times – the wear could have been from being leveled, or just normal wear with slightly oversized tires. Again, do your research. There is a lot of info on this forum (and other forums) regarding the pros and cons of leveling kits. Some people like them, some people don’t. From my personal experience, they can work if you purchase all the right components, don’t crank it too much, and don’t put on too large of a tire…
  11. A jumper wire is installed the same way a diode is installed at the BCM. The diode only allows the current (electricity) to flow in one direction where a wire will allow it to flow in both directions... For example - Hotwheel used a wire and wanted his bed lights to come on anytime his interior lights were on, which this accomplished. But since the electricity can flow in both directions, when (or if) he uses the bed light switch in the cab, his interior lights will come on too. If a diode is used and placed the correct way (interior lights to bed lights), the bed lights will come every time the interior lights are on (like he has it), but the interior lights will not come on if the bed light switch is used... Below is a BCM diode mod on a '16 jumping from from one pin in the brown module to one pin in the pink module. The diode has a silver stripe on the pink module side. Electricity can only flown from the brown side to the pink side, but not the other direction. If a wire was used, it would flow both directions...
  12. I guess it's up to one's perception...I went from an '04 with only heated seats to my '16 with heated and ventilated seats. To me, I can definitely feel the air flow - especially on the third setting (high). It's enough to provide that extra comfort and keep the ass and back sweat away. But GM does not have "cooled" seats. They are ventilated seats only where a fan underneath merely blows cabin air through the seat. I'm not familiar with the range of the seat fan power in Ford or Dodge applications...but it sounds like it's much more powerful than GM... Back to your original question - the seats would have to be perforated for ventilation to be an option, so if they are not, don't even bother. If they are, and you want it to look factory, you will obviously have to have the wiring in place, source the factory dash switches, etc., and more than likely the dealer will have to re-flash the computer for everything to work once it's all hooked up. Another option may be just figure out a way to run power and aftermarket switches to the fan motors. Maybe this would work? Not sure? Just my two cents...good luck...
  13. They do cast a fair amount of angled light on either sides of the truck. Take a look at the last pic on my original starting post. That pic is taken from the drivers seat looking back through the side mirror... But you need to do this simple mod if you want more light down the sides of a trailer...assuming you have the towing mirrors with the LED lights? Now these LEDs in the mirrors will come on every time you put it reverse... Under the drivers dash, locate the Body Control Module (BCM). Install a diode (jumper) between the two pins (see pic below). Jump from the brown BCM pin (brown/blue wire) to the second from left pin in the pic (brown/white wire) of the "pink" BCM. The gray stripe on the diode must be on the "pink" side. Simply push it in approx 3/8" to 1/2" deep. The diode is a Radio Shack part Number 1N4004. I believe a 2-pack is about $2.00.
  14. Did you look in to the Genuine GM Extended Protection Plan? I would assume it's available for the 2020's? It can be purchased anytime prior to the factory warranty ending... I purchased the platinum package for my 2016 just before my factory bumper to bumper 3 year / 36K warranty ended. There are multiple term / mileage packages available to suit your needs. A good place to start is knappvehicleservicecontracts.com. A large volume GM dealer that has an easy to use website regarding the GMPP Extended Warranty. They can give you a quote based on your plan of choice. You simply enter your VIN. These plans are obviously negotiable. I wanted to give my local dealer a shot...and surprisingly, their initial starting prices were lower than the larger volume dealers. And after a little more haggling, we got the price down even further - paying cash for an even longer term / mileage warranty...
  15. I figured with a name like Icutmetl you'd be looking at making your own...ha, ha...but you're right - probably cheaper to buy'em...
  16. I'm running the washer type extenders. These mount on top of the shock. I don't know if there is an advantage to one over the other as they both accomplish the same thing. The stud thread length does not seem to be an issue. It sits just flush with the top of the new lock nut. I've been running these for a little over 4 years with no issues... Mine came from Central Coast Motorsports (ccmoffroad.com). I purchased their leveling kit which came with keys, UCAs, diff drop spacers, and the shock extenders, but they do sell just the shock extenders for $15.00. See pics below...
  17. Here are a couple pics. You can see the small lense of the light, but the black housing blends in pretty well to the plastic housing...especially the further away you are...
  18. I crimped on a small ring to the ground wire and attached it to a screw on the bottom outside edge of the bumper...
  19. Rolling back that far seems excessive in my opinion. My '16 does roll back about a small amount on a slight slope, but using the e-brake before putting it in park will stop this. The greater the slope, the more the truck will move, but still not as excessive as you state. Maybe your e-brake needs to be adjusted? Try this next time...hook one of your tailgate support cables over the tailgate latch pin on the bed. This will temporarily hold your tailgate at an approx. 45 degree angle. Now your rear camera is looking directly down at your ball and hitch, thus making the alignment much easier through the fish-eye lense. If you need to stop a little short, you will see this is much easier too...
  20. Regarding the popping - if they are Moog ball joints, they had a bad batch that prematurely failed. I had a slight popping noise while hitting bumps, but it was only coming from the right side. I took it back to the manufacturer of my leveling kit who informed me of the ball joint problem. They ended up warranting both Moog ball joints that came in their UCAs and the popping stopped - and has not returned... Regarding the slight bang - when we installed my leveling kit, I initially had a slight banging noise that could be heard and felt as a sharp vibration in the floor over certain bumps, but not all bumps. We initially had my truck cranked so it sat level. We de-cranked just slightly and the banging stopped. This increased the distance between the UCA and the droop stop. You also mentioned the bilsteins...are you running shock extensions? If not, the slight bang could be coming from your shocks fully extending over bumps...
  21. Awesome idea 737Mechanic !!! I will take a pair if you are willing to make more as you spoke about in your video. I do not have access to a 3D printer. We can private message each other the details...payment, shipping, etc... Nice job...
  22. Check out Highway Products. They have multiple styles, finishes, and colors available. They are a little pricey, but you definitely get what you pay for. They come with a lifetime warranty, are made from 1/8" thick aluminum, have an automotive door style weather seal, and all the hardware (piano hinge, lock set, lock rods, etc.) are all stainless... They custom built my box about 3.5 years ago. I had them build it a little narrower to suit my needs. It is a satin black powder coat finish to somewhat match the the black plastic bed rails covers and factory spray in bed liner. The tool box lid is what they call leopard - lightly shaved diamond plate for a two-toned effect. Its something different that I initially wasn't to sure of, but really liked it once I received the box. They have other finishes like this available too... They even have some pretty cool bed rails for additional tie down points if that is something you need too. They do include two tie down hooks on the box itself...along with a bottle opener inside the lid to open a frosty cold beverage should the need arise...
  23. Now, I didn't say it was simple to get the rear of the factory fog lights, it was just simple to twist out the bulb housing turning it a quarter turn once I got to it. Believe me, this is much easier than removing the wheel liner. I started with this option first as I read a thread (can't remember if it was this forum or Duramax Diesel) as that's what the consensus was stating at that time too. After removing all the wheel liner screws and plastic fender molding screws (the wheel liner is tucked under), it still wouldn't budge. If my memory is correct (this was a few years ago), the fender molding is held on with 3M tape also that needs to be replaced once removed. Or some type of fastener that you have break (and replace) in order to fully remove it correctly. Somebody then posted they where able change the bulbs from the backside without removing the liner. I, like you tried, and figured, there is no way to get your hands in there (by the way, I don't have child hands). I put everything away and figured I'd tackle it another day. One day, after a few beers, I saw the bulbs on the workbench, and went for round 2. Maybe the blue mountains on the ice cold beer cans shrunk my hands a little, I don't know, but I was able to get my hands up in there. It was tight. I think I removed a few screws from the front side of the liner to allow it flex back a little to create a little more room, but you definitely have to remove the small approx 10" diagonal bumper brace behind each light housing (again, going off memory on the size of that brace). I did this all from the ground...no jack used...all done by feel to get the bulb socket to turn the quarter turn for removal... Again, in the multiple opinions from that previous thread, this is much easier than removing the liner... Have some beers and give it another try...
  24. I'm not sure if this will work for the T1, but a clean look is mounting Rigid Ignite Back-Up Lights in the rear bumper step. I did this on my 2016. If they don't fit inside the step, maybe they'll fit on the flat plastic that is more flush with the bumper. They do require a couple inches of clearance behind them... I installed mine about three years ago and have had no issues. They are each connected separately to the factory back-up light wiring directly above... They put out a tremendous amount of light for their small size. I believe someone asked if they will light up across a 20' driveway (I know the thread is old), and yes they will...and then some. They will light up my 70' driveway and still illuminate trees and fences on the other side of the street. All this without washing out the backup camera...
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