Thanks for replying; I’ve seen a few pics of trucks similar to mine with 275’s, and it’s exactly the look I’m going for. A little more but now too much. I’m really looking for pics of my unicorn setup though.
Ton of info and feedback on here and other forums about tire size, lifts, torsion key adjustment, and so on. I’m looking for pics of a specific combination. I want to put 275/65R20 tires on my factory rims, add a 1” block in back, and adjust the front end for a 1” lift. I have garage height restrictions and only have 4” to play with- I want to leave myself some wiggle room there and not over-do it with the front end. Does anybody have pics of that combination?
I think the scale in the hitch is a real unique idea, but I wonder about the beating that mechanism takes over time from trailer movement. I was referring to their “180” hitch (LTB6-25); which doesn’t have the scale, but does have the two different size balls. I also like the Curt #45902 heavy duty steel adjustable hitch. I’m leaning toward the 6” of either, and do like the weight of the aluminum setup.
That’s great; as mentioned, I also have a stock height truck and have experience with a 6” adjustable drop hitch. I’m curious weather it will be enough with slightly higher ride height & upsized tires. Did you read my original post?
I also towed a U-Haul utility trailer earlier this winter, and used an old 6” drop for that. It was definitely a lower hitch height and sat nose down with the 6” drop. So; based on those experiences and what I want to do with my truck, I’m thinking a 6” adjustable drop hitch should be just right. I don’t want to buy twice or end up with one that’s excessively long. Your guys’ thoughts?
The second trailer I mentioned is an inline snowmobile trailer (think it’s 14’ plus a 5’ v-nose). For this, we used a Weigh Safe 180deg 6” adjustable aluminum hitch. I want to say we adjusted the hitch about 1/2 to 2/3 down. The trailer/hitch owner has a new Super Duty; we had to raise the hitch 1” for my truck since ours are a tad bit lower.
I have a stock 2018 GMC 2500 All Terrain HD Duramax. At some point, I’d like to add 275/65R20 tires (3/4” taller on radius), 1” blocks in the rear, and raise the front 1”-1.5”. I’m trying to figure out if a 6” drop adjustable hitch will still be enough. I measured 21-1/2” to the top of the 2-1/2” receiver opening. It should be noted that I have SumoSprings 1500lb replacement bump stops, which currently sit about 1” off the axle when unloaded. I pulled a couple snowmobile trailers earlier this winter, neither of which phased the truck much at all. The first one was a small 12’ hybrid; which the manufacturer lists as having a 21” hitch height, yet it sat about perfectly with a 4” drop hitch (that math doesn’t make sense). The owner uses a 2” drop flipped upside down on his 1500.
What is the allowable difference in tire size on a limited slip or locking axle? I have the factory 265/60R20 tires on my 2018 All Terrain HD with a 265/70R18 spare, which appears to be 0.3% larger in diameter- not even enough to mention. I would like to get rid of the mall-terrain Goodyear SRA tires at some point in favor of 275/65R20 snowflake rated all terrain tires, but am wondering what size to purchase for the spare. The closest size that popped up on TireSize.com is a 285/75R18, which is 2.1% larger in diameter. I know now it is bad juju for a non-open differential to have different tires on either end (in the case of our G80 rear). What is the allowable difference? I’ve upgraded tires on past vehicles and increased the size an inch or so without following suit with the spare, but I never had a tire failure that required me using it. I wouldn’t mind doing it the right way this time around. Should I look for a used 20” factory rim? Thanks for your guys’ input!
I came from a crude, thirsty, and gutless (but pristine) 1996 F350 with a 460 into a new 2018 GMC All Terrain HD 2500 Duramax, knowing that the modern gas engines would likely be the better choice. I don’t drive it daily and I don’t consistently work it hard. I can fully accept the fact that modern diesels don’t hold the economic advantage over their gas counterparts that they once did. Perhaps at resale, but that’s about it. I’ve developed the opinion that you either have to WANT or NEED a modern diesel to make it worth the overall cost of ownership. You can pay for a lot of 87 octane with the cost advantage, you just won’t have the same effortless driving experience. I wanted it, plain and simple. I don’t need it. This is my first diesel that I’ve owned, and I wanted the power and control that a gas will never give. I like being able to drive out west heading into the wind with a sideways sail of a snowmobile trailer and not feeling one single downshift. I like the steady surge of power accelerating with a load behind me, knowing there’s more to give if I ask. I like having this magic exhaust brake button I can push that feels like I throw an anchor off the back of the trailer when I let off the accelerator. I like barely being able to hear the truck doing it’s thing as I’m driving normally.
Icutmetl replied to CS19HD's topic in 2015-2019 Silverado & Sierra HD ModsI signed up for about a month; but like most of the other Facebook “forums” I’ve tried becoming a part of, it’s just another shit show.
Had to ad DEF for the first time in my 2018; the 30% warning came up at roughly 4,200 miles. I happened to be pulling into a fuel station soon anyway, so I decided to fill it up as well at 28%. We were out in Montana on a snowmobile trip and I don’t want to run it low with the temps. This is is probably where I start to over analyze things... Since the DEF tank is 7 gallons; and I was just below 30%, math says I had to add 5 gallons. I bought a pair of the 2.5gal jugs, and got roughly 4gal in before it vomited DEF our the filler hole. It was damn cold and I didn’t have the time or patience to see if I could eek the last gallon or so down. So does the system build up that much air & burp itself, or is the capacity and/or meter off by that much?
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