My AT4 came with the Goodyear "street" tires. One size smaller then the Duratracs. I think they were 265/65/18. I was getting a pretty consistent 22 MPG up to 31.5 MPG at 55 mph for over an hour. I swapped out my setup for TrailBoss wheels with the Duratracs (factory size 275/65)) and saw an immediate drop of about 1.5 MPG. I then went 1 size up to a 285/65/18 and saw about another 1.5 MPG drop. A lot has to do with weight and rolling resistance.
Those Roadz have a pretty low lumen output. Better then nothing, but still. I have the same truck as you and want to do the same thing. Roads does make the brackets for the hood mount lights, if you are into that look.
I just cant seem to find the real-estate behind the grill with the active grill shutters. And taking the grill apart is not something I want to do since I am limited to the tools I have on hand while here in Alabama. (all my stuff is back in PA....) There does not seem to be anything solid to mount to without building some brackets which I can't where I am at. Also thought about removing the tow hooks to make up for the air flow that I restricted, but if I ever need to be pulled, I'll have no place to latch to... And I dont like the way the hood mounted lights look.
Some of you may have noticed that the Diesel Trucks have a different lower front valance, Between the tow hooks, the bumper is open to allow air to enter and hit the inner cooler. I want to add a light bar, and this spot is the only real-estate on the front of our trucks. The opening will accommodate up to a 20" bar. That being said, it will block about1/2 - 3/4 of the opening when installed. Do you think this will impact the inner cooler? The other option is to go smaller. I can fit a 10" light bar in there, that will block about the same amount of air as the front license pl
Well... it didn’t work. I installed the Rigid lights in the bumper and tied them into the bed lights.... when I hit the cargo light switch, the bed lights blink twice (not the cargo lamp) . And then the bed lights shut off. As do my Rigid lights I just installed. I assume the system is to smart and feels to much draw? any suggestions? I really do t want to run a whole new circuit.
Weird, that is exactly what I want... This is what they replied to me. Thank you for reaching out. Unfortunately we do not offer an option to enable the bed cargo light on while the vehicle is in motion. If you have any further questions or concerns please feel free to reach out. Has anyone installed this? One thing I see is, it states that the button must be pressed and held while in gear.. Do I really need to push and hold it in?? Thats not what I want either. If I am going to go thru all that, I'll just run a whole wire harness.
I called Boost. They dont have anything for the cab lights. Yea, I know why they dont allow it. But my 2015 F-150 allowed me to turn them on while in motion. So, where is what I am trying to do. I am installing work lights on the rear, to be used while hooking up a trailer, getting my hunting gear on, etc.. Instead of running a whole wiring harness to a switch, I was going to tap them into the bed lights. I would also like to use these as back up lights. The cab/bed lights. Do they turn off the instant you put the truck in gear? As soon as the veh
Bumper replacement? (Not to hijack the thread) but what bumper did you find for the Diesel? Also, I am getting between 20-23 MPG pretty regularly. Best ever was 31 in my AT4 cruising at about 55 mpg. I just installed 285/70/18's and have noticed a decrease in mileage just from the tires...
So the Torque Lite App. Where all of those settings or monitors pre-programmed in there? I ran into a guy who was telling me he had to download some PID's I think he called them. Id basically love to know when the truck is about to go into regen so I Can keep driving through it and not stopping half way through.
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