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My AT4 came with the Goodyear "street" tires. One size smaller then the Duratracs. I think they were 265/65/18. I was getting a pretty consistent 22 MPG up to 31.5 MPG at 55 mph for over an hour. I swapped out my setup for TrailBoss wheels with the Duratracs (factory size 275/65)) and saw an immediate drop of about 1.5 MPG. I then went 1 size up to a 285/65/18 and saw about another 1.5 MPG drop. A lot has to do with weight and rolling resistance.

You guys anger me by bursting my bubble. Haha. But I appreciate it. If the grill were easier to remove, I’d try to fab a bracket behind the grill.

Those Roadz have a pretty low lumen output. Better then nothing, but still. I have the same truck as you and want to do the same thing. Roads does make the brackets for the hood mount lights, if you are into that look.

I just cant seem to find the real-estate behind the grill with the active grill shutters. And taking the grill apart is not something I want to do since I am limited to the tools I have on hand while here in Alabama. (all my stuff is back in PA....) There does not seem to be anything solid to mount to without building some brackets which I can't where I am at. Also thought about removing the tow hooks to make up for the air flow that I restricted, but if I ever need to be pulled, I'll have no place to latch to... And I dont like the way the hood mounted lights look. Unless the truck is lifted and modified, they look out of place.

Some of you may have noticed that the Diesel Trucks have a different lower front valance, Between the tow hooks, the bumper is open to allow air to enter and hit the inner cooler. I want to add a light bar, and this spot is the only real-estate on the front of our trucks. The opening will accommodate up to a 20" bar. That being said, it will block about1/2 - 3/4 of the opening when installed. Do you think this will impact the inner cooler? The other option is to go smaller. I can fit a 10" light bar in there, that will block about the same amount of air as the front license plate would, if installed. I wanted to see your opinions before I want head and started looking for mounting options for the 20" bar.

Got it done. Power from the bed lights to the relay and 12v from the trailer harness. Works exactly as I wished. Thanks gang

And I'm OK with that for now. As long as I can use it as a utility and back up I'm fine with that. I'll have to find a full time 12v to wire them to. Where should to fuse go..?

Well... it didn’t work. I installed the Rigid lights in the bumper and tied them into the bed lights.... when I hit the cargo light switch, the bed lights blink twice (not the cargo lamp) . And then the bed lights shut off. As do my Rigid lights I just installed. I assume the system is to smart and feels to much draw? any suggestions? I really do t want to run a whole new circuit.

I thought the bed lights go out as soon as the vehicle goes into any gear... Does it not?

GM did us no favors by tucking everything in so tightly to the tires....

Weird, that is exactly what I want... This is what they replied to me. Thank you for reaching out. Unfortunately we do not offer an option to enable the bed cargo light on while the vehicle is in motion. If you have any further questions or concerns please feel free to reach out. Has anyone installed this? One thing I see is, it states that the button must be pressed and held while in gear.. Do I really need to push and hold it in?? Thats not what I want either. If I am going to go thru all that, I'll just run a whole wire harness.

I called Boost. They dont have anything for the cab lights. Yea, I know why they dont allow it. But my 2015 F-150 allowed me to turn them on while in motion. So, where is what I am trying to do. I am installing work lights on the rear, to be used while hooking up a trailer, getting my hunting gear on, etc.. Instead of running a whole wiring harness to a switch, I was going to tap them into the bed lights. I would also like to use these as back up lights. The cab/bed lights. Do they turn off the instant you put the truck in gear? As soon as the vehicle starts moving, or do they shut off at a certain speed?

Bumper replacement? (Not to hijack the thread) but what bumper did you find for the Diesel? Also, I am getting between 20-23 MPG pretty regularly. Best ever was 31 in my AT4 cruising at about 55 mpg. I just installed 285/70/18's and have noticed a decrease in mileage just from the tires...

Seems like the cargo and bed lights cannot be turned on while moving. So they turn off as soon as you start moving? And if so, can that be overridden?

So the Torque Lite App. Where all of those settings or monitors pre-programmed in there? I ran into a guy who was telling me he had to download some PID's I think he called them. Id basically love to know when the truck is about to go into regen so I Can keep driving through it and not stopping half way through.

Hmmmm, I like the idea of wiring them to the bed lights....... I may do just that. Way easier. And I dont think they will pull to much power off that circuit. I miss the switch my F150 had in the bed to turn the bed lights on.

Funny you should post this. I was taking measurements for the same lights today, mounted in the same location. Do you have any pics of them with the lights off? also, how bright are the diffused lights? I like to have them on a switch for when I am hooking up a trailer or unloading the bed at night. I was thinking of going with the flood version. That was stupidly way more money.

Are these UCA's "bigger"? Meaning are they closer to the tire... i want new UCAs bht i dont want to run spacers or have to get new wheels.

I don’t see a listing under 2020 for the Sierra. Only Canyon.

Good information. And yes, I have a AT4. I just added 285/70/18 Ridge Grapplers. They claim 34" tall. But I found real world off the truck, they are about 33 1/8.... far cry from 34".. But to be honest, i think a 34" would have been dang close to rubbing. And the contact patch is a hair over the factory 275's. And I am fine with 1" lift up front with the Bilstein's. Thats all I really want. Does anyone make an UCA that does not bring it closer to the tire? I have about a finger's width between the tire and UCA now.... And I do not want to run spacers. When I move back north, sadly I'll have to get new wheels anyway. I'll need to push the wheels out to get chains in. I could never run chains being that close to the UCA...

I do not think I have seen a comparison looking at the pros and cons of the Bilstein 5100's vs. a leveling kit. Here are my thoughts, but I am interested in your thoughts: I think install time is wash, because on a leveling kit, you dont have to compress the spring, but you have to install spacers and on some, replace the upper control arms. Where the bilsteins, you dont have to do any of that, but you do have to compress the spring. Both kits require an alignment afterwards. Spacer kits actually make the shock "longer" so to speak to raise the suspension. Spring compression rate remains the same. Bilstein changes the mounting point for the spring, thus using the springs compression to raise the suspension. Changes the spring compression at neutral stance thus giving a bit more firmer of a ride..? Better leveling kits account for the difference in the upper ball joints and replace the UCA. I would assume the Bilstein kits also change the ball joint angle, but they do not account for it. Is all that accurate? Is everyone doing the Bilstein 5100's just leaving the UCA and ball joint stock?

You think two Squadron Pro's would put out more light then a 20" single row LED light bar? My buddy has 8 Squadrons on the front of his F350. Combo of spot and driving.. It lights the night. I swear it would blind Stevie Wonder.

They are fine around town. And yes, better in some way then my older trucks. But when my high beams go on, I want things to get brighter. Not just aim my beam a little higher. And that what I feel happens. High beams just go a little higher. They do not add anything to the width of the light. I am going to find a shop and fabricate a light bar for my truck. Because when I am on a back road or open highway. I want to see every inch of the road. Especially in the rain.

GMC Is the same. My AT4 blinds people, but light output just dosent have much umph. They are always flashing me because i dont realize my high beams are on. It looses intensity the furthur away you get. Its like some cheap harbor freight led light. You stare at if and go blind. But the output is poor..

Do we think a single row light bar would reduce air flow by that much?