shanemoon

It's true. But truck people are all about image...lol. I live in DFW....people around here try to act country...but there's also a lot of money around here. The amount of Raptors I see on the road is ridiculous. Literally 8-12 a day. And I don't drive much. It's all about having the coolest thing. No one needs all the power of a TRX. And honestly, the Raptor is a better truck in a lot of ways. I think all the Hellcat vehicles are stupid. Can't put power down, very unrefined, not well engineered, etc.

X31, Z71, AT4 and Trailboss is very bouncy. Common complaint with those "upgraded" ranchos. Swap them for the Bilsteins and you'll see a huge difference. The rears are really all you need to do.

(for context...I am in rigging and material handling as a profession) The way that picture shows the webbing sling being choked is incorrect. You should let that fire department know that. This is one of the biggest issues with people and towing/material handling. They are not trained and do not go through the effort of researching how to properly tow/recover/material handle, so they do inevitably do things incorrectly. Then blame the product for the failure. 90% of the time, things are fine....because products are usually extremely over-engineered....but the issue is that is gives a false sense of confidence and creates very bad practices. So the day it does matter, you end up with a catastrophic failure that could result in injury or death. Flat, webbing slings can be choked, but the radius of the object they're choked around must be appropriate for the eye opening. It should not come back onto the eye like that. Also keep in mind that when you choke a sling, you reduce its WLL. And you should never choke around the seams of a sling. It's also kind of a pain to have to pull an entire 20FT strap through itself like that. I don't personally like soft shackles, but you can use them if you like. People really don't like hard shackles around here, but it's really fine....the end of a 15lbs tow strap coming towards your head can be just as deadly as a 1lb shackle. It's one of those things that got a bad wrap without any real testing or science behind it. Like the man/off road guy version of an "old wives tale". Shackles and chains are used in literally every industry for material handing far greater loads than pulling a vehicle out. It just becomes an issue when people are buying cheap-o shackles and such on Amazon without knowing enough about WLL and breaking strength rating and dynamic loads. I'm amazed at some of the recovery gear sold on Amazon that has shockingly low load ratings. Just make sure everything is properly rated and do your research and you're good to go. Get stuff from reputable companies. ARB, WARN, etc. Personally, I just don't use shackles on my tow hooks because I don't want the black or red metal to get scuffed and scrape off. I just happen to have 2 short endless roundslings from my job that I use. So I basket those around my hook, then shackle it to the tow strap. Because I work in rigging and material handling, so I really just don't like the concept of soft shackles...I like something a bit more secure. But that's just me.

Not all trim models. I think the LTZ and High Country already have LED turns and reverse lights. If they do, they cannot be swapped. They’re not bulbs, they’re LED’s soldered onto PCB boards. There’s a couple other topics on here that might give you that answer. Or you could just pull the tail light and see.

Does require a BCM reprogram. And requires memory seats or at least the memory seat module as well.

You'll see anywhere from $7500-9000 pretty frequently. I got just under $10,000 off MSRP on mine when I bought it back in September. GM was running a great deal on the All Star/Texas Edition package. Was discount to like $125 for the package.

This is a case of just common sense. This same principal applies to any type of filter...but can be best illustrated in air handling filters. Typical, common household air filters go anywhere from MERV 1-8. The MERV scale goes all the way up to 20 for instances where ultra-filtration is needed..(clean rooms, surgery rooms, nuclear rooms, etc.) Residential HVAC systems are not designed to utilize filters above 8...in some newer systems up to 12. A MERV 1 system will have the best efficiency in terms of cooling and heating, but will have the least efficiency in terms of filtration. As you get higher in the MERV scale, the filters obviously become more restrictive. If you don't have an air handler that can push enough low speed airflow and large enough ducts to support that mass of airflow at low velocities, you will have a deficient air system. This could cause damage to your air handler or VAV's and will cause the spaces to have deficient cooling/heating. At the same time, the higher level of particulate filtration leads to the increased need for filter replacement. If you do not replace the filters as necessary, they no longer filter and the value of using a higher MERV filter is irrelevant at that point. It's also a matter of how the filters are designed. Higher MERV or HEPA filters are not designed to take high air velocities...they become less effective. The air handling systems that require and utilize 18-20 MERV or HEPA filtration are designed very specifically to ensure that the air velocities are within the range of effectiveness for the filter, then the ducts are sized properly to ensure that at the proper velocity, there is sufficient air volume to heat/cool the space. So basically....if you get a higher quality, finer oil filter than what is designed for your engine, you may be restricting oil flow. Additionally, the finer filter will likely capture more particulates (agglomerates) thus requiring more frequent oil changes (or at least filter changes). If you fail to do this, you are essentially creating a worse situation for your engine. There is no right answer...these engines aren't F1 V12's that need to be rebuilt every 500 miles. They can tolerate a good amount of variation.....but you have to be careful about going too far in any one direction. GM and other vehicle/engine manufacturers have teams of engineers that spend 1000's of hours and millions of dollars in R&D. I would trust them. Sure they are in the business of making money, so they may not design things to be their 100% optimum. So I'm sure that there is a better filter option for these engines....but if you don't know what you're doing....chances are that you'll be doing more harm to your engine than good.

Just get the LT and find a center console to swap it with. About $500-600.

Oh gotcha. Yeah the LT models and up have both the top armrest storage and under seat storage. That link I sent is just for the top part to replace. Best bet is to look through car-part or ebay for a full seat with both storage. Simple bolt in.

Lmao....probably didn't think of that one.

Did this ever work for you? Did you get the inside USB ports to work by swapping the front USB part to the one with the SD card and installing that extra harness? Also if it did work, which radio do you have? IOR or IOS?

https://www.gm-trucks.com/gm-releases-significant-over-the-air-update-for-2020-silverado-sierra-other-vehicles/

https://www.gmperformancemotor.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=GMP&Product_Code=84756948&yotpo_token=8eb9fa71abc7ab2860a90cbb96f22de9c7518619&utm_source=yotpo&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=map You can try looking through car-part.com to find some at a junk yard. Or just get that one. Will be around the same cost. I had one that I sold to someone on here already.

Did you connect the wiring harness back to the truck on the new console? Yes...there is an antenna within the jump seat/console that is dedicated for keyless entry. It's a different antenna than the ones used for remote start, remote unlock and things like that.

Haven't used that specific one. Looks fancy. But have loaned a mcpherson style spring compressor from Autozone before. Simple and worked just fine.