I traded mine in on a new Tundra, first GM truck I’ve ever owned out of many trucks, and the experience only lasted 4 months! Thank god the current times didn’t make it an expensive mistake buying a GM, got what I paid for it on trade. There is no fuel mileage so good that overcomes reliability and not knowing if my truck will start or what will F$&# up next, Never again!
You can click your heels three times and wish this problem away but it’s got nothing to do with remotes or foot on brake pedal pressure, how much of a hurry your in and button pushing. I’m over 12 incidents of this problem in 7,000 miles , and GM has no clue what they are doing!
There’s nothing you did that will avert it happening again, and as of now GM has no clue how to make this problem go away. They are 0 for 3 on bulletins to fix it, and tightening fuse block bolts, holding your foot on the brake a certain way, pushing the button a certain way or standing on one leg while remote starting it is not going to keep it from happening again. Until they have a verified fix for it it will keep rearing it’s ugly head from time to time. I’ve had it happen twice in one day and not happen again for 1500 miles. There is no rhyme nor reason to it.
I have not but an owner on one of the Facebook pages had it done a week ago and had another crank no start on Friday. I haven’t allowed them to use me as a guinea pig for any of these repairs that haven’t worked.
Im right there with you. In addition I read another testimonial of a 3.0 owner that had his whole truck disassembled for the Reluctor wheel bulletin to fix the crank no start and it didn’t even take 6 days after he got it back and it did another crank no start while the Service manager was starting it! To make matters worse he has all kinds of things wrong with his truck post the repair and is now fighting with the dealership that did the work to fix it. That TSB is a nightmare in the making.
You are free to do whatever you’d like with your truck, it’s yours. I’ve witnessed this kind of stuff too many times, but this resolution that GM has proposed for a not so serious driveability problem is the most insane thing I’ve seen yet. Completely ripping apart brand new trucks on a hunch that a bent exciter wheel is the culprit without proving their theory tops them all. I’m just advising other people if you like your truck and want to keep your truck, be very cautious about this situation. Not all mechanics are even capable of doing this repair without creating additional problems. There will be a fix at some point, but this is not it!
There are only 2 TSB’s currently available for the 3.0 Duramax for extended cranking and not starting and neither has proven to fix the problem. One is an ECU update and the other involves the cam position sensor and reluctor wheel on the rear of the engine.
Another owner on one of the 3.0 Duramax Facebook pages has only had his truck back 6 days after over 30 in the shop to replace the exciter wheel had a crank no start event today.
It’s not mandatory that you allow them to rip your truck apart. And many people have had this problem for tens of thousands of miles with zero effect in the engine. If it were bad…..it would be bad. Meaning the exciter wheel isn’t contacting anything so it’s not going to grenade anything. Personally I’d wait until they come up with an actual fix for the problem and thank all the owners that are being guinea pigs for this problem.
I’d think twice before I allowed that type of repair to be done. There’s a ton of owners with tens of thousands of miles that have had many crank no starts with nothing wrong with the engines. And since this repair doesn’t fix the crank no start anyway, why do it? That truck will not be right when it’s put back together. Just asking for problems.
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