taze

Opening the door, isn't that the fuel pump priming? (that's what I always assumed) Lot's of crazy clicks and things after I kill it. Relays? Underpants gnomes? (iykyk)

It also seems like to me it won't kick in over 80, is that true? Maybe because it needs too much throttle to stay up there?

You probably have this figured out by now, but just in case. I MAY or may not have done the same thing once.... I was able to open mine from the outside. I wonder if the rubber around the door lock plunger thing on the top of the door card (no idea what it's called) is impeding that from coming up? I'd think you'd be able to get in from the other side and pop the rubber around the door lock out and the open from the outside, maybe?

What about the switch? My old Tahoe I had the same type symptoms and that's what I replaced. Black Front Driver Side Door Window Control Switch - GM (84699726)

This is a combination of posts elsewhere in this forum that I used. Granted, I have 2021, but maybe the pre-refresh 22 is the same: BOSE Amplifier from the amplifier behind the rear seat on the wall: Harness #1 = 16 pin pin 4 = Left rear door speaker (+) green pin 5 = Right rear door speaker (+) white pin 6 = Left corner dash speaker (+) blue/violet pin 7 = Right corner dash speaker (+) brown/black pin 12 = Left rear door speaker (-) green/black pin 13 = Right rear door speaker (-) blue/black pin 14 = Left corner dash speaker (-) blue/brown) pin 15 = Right Corner dash speaker (-) white/yellow Harness #2 = 8 pin pin 1 = Constant 12v power = RED/Yellow pin 2 = Left Front door speaker (+) blue pin 3 = Right Front door speaker (+) yellow pin 4 = Center Console Subwoofer (+) Blue/GRAY pin 5 = Chassis GROUND pin 6 = Left front door speaker (-) pin 7 = Right Front door speaker (-) = Yellow/Black pin 8 = Center Console Subwoofer (-) = Green/Black Harness #3 = 16 pin all for data so do not mess with it. you can use this color code as a reference pin 7 = gray pin 8 = white/black pin 13 = blue/yellow pin 14 = blue/white

This may not be the issue, but worth checking before you get too deep in the weeds, I'd think:

Yeah, I don't know why I was looking at the 2500 when it said 1500 in the title. edit: But it looks like the hood on the 1500 is also the same from 2020-2025. 84610676

Hood is the same part number from 2020-2025. You'll need filler panels (under the headlight above the bumper) looking at the picture (86525588, 86525587) Edit: My bad, I was looking at 2500s for some reason (I can't read).

I can smell this post. Hope they get it fixed right!

I'm looking forward to getting a nav upgrade from you once I finish the back end of my install! That plus PAC AP4 and an amp is the same as the Kenwood+RR+Install kit and actually adds a functionality that I'd like to have.

Mine passed the test yesterday. '21 with about 42K miles.

Did you use the factory wiring or run new speaker wire? If you ran new wire, how'd you get around/through the (molex?) connector in the doors?

Looking at the GM instructions, I think this is the module you need to work with? Terminal type 2 seems to be all power so you'd be looking at type 1, 19370262. But that's a whole pig tail: https://www.amazon.com/GM-Genuine-Parts-19370262-Splice/dp/B0F2C11LSK from https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/24_Silverado1500_Electrical_Body_Builder_2023Nov29.pdf

It looks like the 5100's can be set to give you up to 1" lift(level) on a Trail Boss. I can't comment on the control arms. I will say I went with 6112's/5160's on my RST and love 'em. Be sure you get the Trail Boss specific part numbers either way. You will need a spring compressor unless you buy pre-assembled from some place like shock surplus. I also can't help on difficulty of install. I watched a video and said no thanks. I dropped it off at a shop at open one morning and picked it up at noon the next day as it came back from alignment.

One thing I'm not sure anyone's mentioned yet, Sterling Gray Metallic does an excellent job of looking clean, even when it's not. That may or may not make a difference to you. I almost got a Mosaic Black. I signed all the papers while they went all the way to the other side of town to bring it back from another dealer and it turned out to be black. I have a black Victory and I knew I couldn't handle washing my truck that often. They weren't happy with me that day...

I really hope he went L8P so he can tell me about the experience.

I had amps screwed into the carpet under my seats in my '97 Tahoe and cables under the carpet for ≈20 years without issue. The one under the rear seat did have a board under the carpet it was screwed into, IIRC. On this truck, I'm probably going the lazy way out and buying a pre-cut rack from Sounds Good Stereo to go behind the seat. All the connections I'm using are back there anyway with the Bose amp. Kind of expensive, but I think it'll save me time and effort, and I think that's worth something. https://soundsgoodstereo.com/products/2019-2021-gmc-sierra-chevrolet-silverado-custom-made-amplifier-rack-plate-board Either way will work fine, so it's really which one do you feel like doing.

No sir, if you go with the LC2i you don't need an epicenter. The LC2i has the capability to "restore" bass already.

That would work good. Wired in series for 2Ω and feed the sub 300W should be just right.

I do see Kicker amps (such as 42PXA2002) list as 1 ohm stable, so maybe they were doing 1 coil per channel. You could wire them in series to increase your options with mono amps. The sub looks like this?

Looks like it's dual 1 ohm, so maybe it's wired series to 2? Kicker RW10CVT10 Subwoofer 400 Watts RMS / 800 Watts Peak Dual 1 Ohm Voice Coils Cutout diameter: 9-3/16" Mounting Depth 4 1/4" Frequency Response: 25 - 500Hz Sensitivity: 87.2 dB Minimum Sealed Enclosure: 0.8ft3 Maximum Sealed Enclosure: 3ft3 Minimum Ported Enclosure: 1.25ft3 Maximum Ported Enclosure: 1.75ft33 Shallow-mount, true high-performance woofer Delivers extreme bass with minimum depth Dark gray modified-spoke cone with bracing for clear bass response Ventless solid-pole design for direct mount to enclosure rear wall   Warranty Info: 1-Year Manufacturer's Warranty View more

As long as the amp is 1 ohm stable, you should be fine. That surprises me a little that sub is 1 ohm.

No worries, I understand how these projects get put on the back burner. The harness I was referring to was to create a speaker level input for the LC2i without splicing/tapping in to any other wires in your truck. You definitely don't need it and that link I put in that first reply has the information on what wires to tap to feed your LC2i. Then the RCAs from the LC2i go to your Punch amp and then speaker wire from there to your subs.

As long as you have harnesses and mounts, you should be good to go. I did just do a stage 2 Resonix kit on the front doors and it definitely is an improvement, but a costly one. On top of $, it took me a long time. I did the second door in about half the time of the first. Don't forget to re-connect the inside handle door cable so it, you know, works. Not that I did anything like that, but I could understand how it might happen. To other people, not me.... Also, I removed the rubber insert around the door lock in the top of the door card to make it easier to seat the card. Then just insert the rubber back in around the lock and you're golden. The rubber insert is keyed so pay attention to that too.

I appreciate that! I wasn't sure if the 1/0 would fit through that same spot or not. What amp did you use for the doors/dash? Did you run speaker wire or use the factory wires? My Soundstream is 125W RMS so I'm not sure I would want to run that on the factory wires. I need to decide if I want to try to run new or get a ~75W RMS amp.