Leem

Yea led is the way to go. I use a led off brand on my low beams. Had lasfit in my lows but even aimed down I was getting flashed. So I popped them in my high beam spot. I still run high beams on my drive to work. Cause the lasfit high beams are great.

Yea I was wondering if they used the knuckle to raise the truck. Instead of torsion indexed keys. Though that was their idea . I was plotting a possible parts grab when 2024 OEM stuff becomes available. i was already planning to grab 2024 headlights and grille bumper swap aka face lift. Though the raised knuckles might pare well with my cognito torsion bars and Fox dsc shocks. Currently at 42.5 at bottom of the fender on 35x11.5 be nice to get that from a knuckle and bring my soft torsion bars down even more. But then again GMparts might want a ridiculous amount for those knuckles.

That’s super clean could you take a measurement. From the ground to the bottom of the fender trim. Curious how much taller the truck is compared to say a leveled 2500hd. I see they got rid of the rear forward mud flap and shortened it up some that looks good and the wider plastic fender trim hope that’s available from gm soon.

Last weekend I added fox 2.0 external resi shocks all around and Cognito comfort ride torsion bars. Also re installed my suspension max leveling keys. Raised it up to 42 1/2 fender height. I will say the comfort ride torsion bars are worth it. After a week of riding on the new setup the bars are worth every penny.

I think there is a company called black horse . They make stainless steel high flow oem style mufflers for the 3/4 ton and one ton gassers. The muffler is large though it is high flow large diameter internals no packing and quiet like stock. I ran across them one day on eBay motors when I was searching for a center console.

I got my new upper steering shaft from gmparts.com online. Not much tools needed just couple sockets. Look back in some older steering noise threads. Should give some details and pics takes less than hour. That wont help much with steering wheel kick but does with the clunk noise. The steering stabilizer is suspension max found there bracket to be the easiest to work with.

I understand that some dealers are the worst. I bought my steering shaft on the web and did mine myself. Hardest part is just wiggling thru the rubber boot. But in short there are several threads of the steering wheel kinda bouncing around. Some say steering stabilizer doesn’t do much. My case it stopped steering wheel kick and gave a better more connected feeling in the wheel. May be worth looking into.

The metallic bump noise is probably the steering shaft. They are known for noise a revised part was created to resolve the noise. I still have a noise in my steering but living with it for now. As far as turning and the steering moving not sure. Could be normal considering these trucks have a bit of play in the steering. If you have been off-road or a washboard road the wheel is back and forth over small chattering bumps. I added a steering stabilizer and it firmed up the wheel and took the shimmy out of my steering wheel. When in doubt take it to the dealer you should be covered. If its a pitman arm idler or a worn defect part.

So Dscott do you like the cognito torsion bars. I know a lot of guys look for reviews on them with no luck. Seems like trucks with leveling kits can benefit from there softer spring rate. That is a very nice setup you have.

I think GM has had this issue for a while. My 2007 CTSV had this issue and my neighbor Chevy SS both times it was left blinker . But my car's high beams stayed on. New switch GM stalk fixed the issue .

Man that’s a good looking bumper. I was looking around for something like that. Have you noticed any difference in transmission temps with the new bumper and winch in front of the cooler. Been needing a winch for a while this bumper is the best looking one I’ve seen. Only other thing I found that looked as good was the chassis unlimited lower valance winch mount. But it looks like it will choke the transmission cooler. Dunno but your truck looks great with that setup.

I did the same thing wrapped the striker in electrical tape. Helped some and I also tightened up the hardware on the latch and checked my door to hinge bolts. But yea crazy tolerance of exceptance on the fit and finish these days. That BFH is starting to pull me in. Will note that snugging up the bolts a lot more than the factory did on the latch and the strike/keeper helped a lot. And the electrical tape kinda added a little more snugness.

I only have my 6 gang switch panel power and control box wire going thru that main wire harness. Close to the steering column. A bear to get thru there i had to very slowly make a hole using a small drill bit and a larger Flathead. The fire wall grommet is separate from the under the dash grommet. It's possible just a lot of bending . To get yourself down in there and under the dash. There is also a rubber grommet just under the driver side carpet. That my amp step power wires run thru you could possibly enter thru there. And run across to the seal plate cable tray and up and under the dash. Certainly easier than the firewall grommet. As far as the wires up front yea its tight a lot tighter than the 14 to 18 trucks. Almost have to go down by the driver side headlight and come back up from the bottom to the bumper. practically skipping the entire shutter and radiator area. I even noticed there is a separate bottom baby shutter system. Where the transmission cooler or oil cooler sit in between the tow hooks and fog lights.

I have not had any oil loss or consumption. I did change my oil last weekend and the knocking noise was right back at it. Has since calmed down again after the oil got some miles on it. A little sooner this time . I have come to the conclusion that it's just gonna be a regular thing with this truck. What oil do you use. I know GM has a oil consumption procedure. They gauge consumption per say miles i think. But i do not know how far they would go to help you.

Yes i forgot to mention it was not the old school WD-40 is was the silica based blue silver can. I would rinse all of it off after your test. That stuff likes to gather grime.