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Leem

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  • Name
    lee
  • Location
    Tennessee
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    anything with a motor
  • Drives
    2021 silverado 2500hd crew cab swb 4x4 custom 6.6 gas

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  1. I think GM has had this issue for a while. My 2007 CTSV had this issue and my neighbor Chevy SS both times it was left blinker . But my car's high beams stayed on. New switch GM stalk fixed the issue .
  2. Man that’s a good looking bumper. I was looking around for something like that. Have you noticed any difference in transmission temps with the new bumper and winch in front of the cooler. Been needing a winch for a while this bumper is the best looking one I’ve seen. Only other thing I found that looked as good was the chassis unlimited lower valance winch mount. But it looks like it will choke the transmission cooler. Dunno but your truck looks great with that setup.
  3. I did the same thing wrapped the striker in electrical tape. Helped some and I also tightened up the hardware on the latch and checked my door to hinge bolts. But yea crazy tolerance of exceptance on the fit and finish these days. That BFH is starting to pull me in. Will note that snugging up the bolts a lot more than the factory did on the latch and the strike/keeper helped a lot. And the electrical tape kinda added a little more snugness.
  4. I only have my 6 gang switch panel power and control box wire going thru that main wire harness. Close to the steering column. A bear to get thru there i had to very slowly make a hole using a small drill bit and a larger Flathead. The fire wall grommet is separate from the under the dash grommet. It's possible just a lot of bending . To get yourself down in there and under the dash. There is also a rubber grommet just under the driver side carpet. That my amp step power wires run thru you could possibly enter thru there. And run across to the seal plate cable tray and up and under the dash. Certainly easier than the firewall grommet. As far as the wires up front yea its tight a lot tighter than the 14 to 18 trucks. Almost have to go down by the driver side headlight and come back up from the bottom to the bumper. practically skipping the entire shutter and radiator area. I even noticed there is a separate bottom baby shutter system. Where the transmission cooler or oil cooler sit in between the tow hooks and fog lights.
  5. I have not had any oil loss or consumption. I did change my oil last weekend and the knocking noise was right back at it. Has since calmed down again after the oil got some miles on it. A little sooner this time . I have come to the conclusion that it's just gonna be a regular thing with this truck. What oil do you use. I know GM has a oil consumption procedure. They gauge consumption per say miles i think. But i do not know how far they would go to help you.
  6. Yes i forgot to mention it was not the old school WD-40 is was the silica based blue silver can. I would rinse all of it off after your test. That stuff likes to gather grime.
  7. I agree unlikely torsion bar. I would start with upper control arm , move down to lower control arm. and eventually each sway bar bushing. One of my older trucks i had a noise. from the front suspension. fox coilovers and incognito control arms. I carried a can of wd-40 on a test drive soaked each bushing one at a time. Found my noise on the 3rd shot. I also agree it could be a shock the oem ones are not the greatest. might be dust boot might be the the chrome plated shaft running dry
  8. Hey Brian I would not worry to much about it. Like I mentioned when i changed my oil at 3000. I am now at 5600 miles and the noise stopped after about 1000 to 1200 miles on the new oil. Dunno drove me crazy. Then i did some research completely unrelated in Duramax forums. Those guys were experiencing same similar noise. They all said give the oil some time to get some mileage on it. So I did even know it makes no sense to me two different worlds . And it went away. I have towed 6k to 9k multiple times . Taken the truck thru the gears full throttle a bunch. during my search for the noise. Taken my valve covers off to check for cracked springs. All this while racking up miles on the new oil and one day it was just gone. I though the noise was bell housing trans pan related but my scope led me to upper back of block maybe fuel pump cam lobe and hydraulic lifter spring driven pump area.
  9. I am running 35x11.5x20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers just slightly taller and wider than stock. Think it brought my ride height up about half inch. No real noticeable loss of power or acceleration. Gas millage never really payed attention. But there is plenty of room no rub lock to lock.
  10. Yea sounds like mine. passenger side is very audible. I dunno if the high pressure pump or its cam driven lifter is a different design. But sounds more like pump noise than the typical injector pulse sound. Who knows it "aint broke" so i just live with it.
  11. I installed a suspension max bracket and a non pressurized rancho stabilizer on my truck. It helped on uneven roads or roads in poor shape. My truck has had one sense 2000 miles on oem tires. Now at 3800 miles with 35 inch ridge grapplers I will say it helps not white knuckle the wheel on some of the roads i drive on. It certainly stopped a lot of clunk and took some of the floating numb dead space out of the steering wheel. I have full lock to lock on 35 inch tires no bind or forcing of the steering linkage truck is not leveled or lifted. For 160 bucks it made a good noticeable effect on how the truck drives now.
  12. Mine has this same tick almost sounds like lifter failing to hold pressure. And creating push rod slack .Seems to be less annoying when its cooler out say 50 degrees and lower. My 2019 5.3 had a tic but not like this one does. I went as far as removing the passenger valve cover to check the valve train. After hearing about GM valve spring issues. 3,800 miles no issues. Chocked it up to the character of the 6.6 l8t DI engine. OP did or have you changed your oil yet. Mine got louder after my first oil change. But has calmed down a bit as the oil gets older.
  13. Yes i have read that as well. Along with something about a fuel line with a check valve in it making a noise. And for it to be replaced. mine was built in June 2021. but still could have a valve train issue. Anyways if i take it in i will report back in what they find. In case this becomes a 6.6 issue One thing i am sure of its certainly not like my 1500s collapsed afm lifter or any broken valve spring noise. That can be found on the youtube. Not much info out there on these motors yet in the way of issues.
  14. Hate to bring this back from the dead. Specially being my first post. But i recently changed my oil using OEM filter and quality oil. I changed mine at 3k miles its a 2021 6.6 gas custom. And now i have a slight knock random only in park and neutral. Oil pressure is about 38 to 40 psi hot idle. I used a stethoscope on my heads and everything sounds good. I am baffled sitting there with the door open you can here a random knock or clank similar to a lifter but not like a AFM collapsed lifter on a half ton. Set parking brake in drive no noise return to park or neutral and i will have a random tap/knock sound. Dunno has me stumped went out and floored it oil pressure goes up as should no crazy sounds. no missing at idle or stumble. noise is not associated with rpm. Kinda crazy sold my 1500 at 39k after AFM lifter repair after dealer had my truck for a month. If any body ever has a chance to listen to there truck in park after a drive right around the bell housing and oil pan location for a faint but audible knock/clank sound please chime in.
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