bmartin1984

Well I got the smart isolator installed on my 2022 Silverado 2500HD non-refresh. Seems to work well. My problem is I still can't figure out which wire goes to the constant 12V on the wiring harness from the fuse box. I want to connect it to my auxiliary battery. Any help would be appreciated. Was much easier to find this wire on my 2012 Silverado as it was attached to a post on the fuse box.

The problem I'm having is after even a light rain or melting frost. Seems I have to remember to raise the hood every time this happens. Seems like a bad design. Can't help but think that water will eventually corrode the inside of the hood. I was going to put silicone around the plastic parts on the hood but figured it would end up discoloring and would be impossible to remove. Ugh.

Might be nothing but I have a strange issue with my 2022 Silverado 2500 HD. Whenever I raise up the hood after the frost melted or even a light rain, I have water coming out under the passenger side of the hood. Usually at the cab side corner near the battery and in the front around the small bump stop thing. Doesn't seem like a good thing to have water sitting inside the hood cavity causing corrosion. Don't like the water dripping around the battery either. Anyone else experienced this? I'm guessing its seeping in around the faux hood scoop or the black plastic pieces on top of the hood. Sure I could silicone around them but on a truck this expensive I'm hoping the warranty would cover such things. Truck is parked facing up on a slight incline in my driveway. Thanks for any help.

So...if I understand BrentH's hand drawn wiring diagram and excellent research, I'm guessing the BCM signal is designed to keep the batteries separated until after the engine has cranked/started. This would allow Chevy to use smaller gauge wiring and fusing between the two batteries as no current could potentially flow from the aux batt to the start battery when cranking the engine should the start battery have a low charge or be defective. Unlike how the diesels work in parallel by needing more current to crank the engine. Sound right? I have two other questions: 1. I'm unclear where and what wires I need to cut and splice so the constant 12V on the trailer harness is connected to the aux battery. 2. I have a smart isolator I plan to use. I noted that it has a spade connector to connect to the "crank side of your ignition circuit. This feature is not required to be connected for the isolator to function and is primariiy designed for applications that may use smaller gauge wires with in line fuses." aka the kit came with 6 gauge wiring. My understanding from the seller is that their dual battery kit is only designed to support current to charge the aux battery and any accessories attached to it thus 60-80amps. Kind of like the Chevy design for the gasser? So, to enable this feature to get a "crank side circuit signal" to my isolator would I have to splice into that BCM connector/wire under the drivers console or can a fuse tap be used in the underhood fuse box? Thanks.

Anyone?

I'm moving all my KC offroad lights from my 2012 Silverado 1500 to my new 2022 Silverado 2500HD (driving lights, foglights, etc.). I have a Ranch Hand grill guard on the 2500. I installed all the light mounts on the grill guard and am ready to run the wiring up to the drivers side of the engine bay to my switch panel. Then....I did a visual inspection and was bummed. First issue to deal with is keeping the wiring away from the grill shutters. Second issue...I can't see any path to get the wiring into the engine bay either at the bottom or top of the grill. Chevy seems so concerned about air flow that there aren't any gaps I could see for routing wiring. Doesn't help that I have the Z71 package so more closed areas underneath. Looking for some expert help. Also, I'm guessing those two grommets on the left and right firewall are the only way to get wiring into the cab? Doesn't look like can can get much wiring or connectors to slide in those rubber nipples on the grommets. Seems each Silverado generation gets harder and harder to modify. Thanks.

I recently put the SDHQ piller light brackets on my 2022 Silverado 2500. You need 3 skinny arms and have to lay across the engine to get the angle. Everything had to be done basically blind and by feel. Was pretty hard using standard tools. After dropping nuts, wrench, and bolts that had to be fished out from behind the mud flap, I finally ended up suspending the parts in position with string and duct tape so I could then manipulate them with one hand. They look great. Certainly not as easy of a job as on my 2012 1500.

I have a 2022 Chevy Silverado 2500HD LT Z71. I have a Ranch Hand grill guard on the front. So I want to move the $2000 of KC Hilights driving and fog lights over to it from my 2013 Silverado. I won the lights in a contest. I got the mounts put on the grill guard so I know where the the lights will be. Then I did some inspection to see how to run the wires up to the switch box. Ugh. First issue was the shutters. Second was I can't see any way to get wiring through the grill and into the engine bay. Looks like Chevy has focused on controlling air flow so much that there aren't any gaps anymore. Anyone know how to do route these light cables without having to disassemble the whole grill?

According to my Chilton manual's wiring guide, The backup lamp relay control wire (drk blue) goes from the Body Control Module to the left I/P junction block which is just left of the break pedal. From there, the wire is split. One dark blue wire goes to the rear view mirror, one dark blue wire goes to the rear view camera, and one dark blue wire goes to the back up lamp relay in the under hood fuse block. Since all are on the same circuit, I'd have to cut a blue wire coming out of the junction block and apply power to verify if its the right one going to the camera. Assuming I get that right, I'd have to use diodes to splice in a power wire from the aftermarket radio and from the BCM to prevent my radio from turning on the rear view mirror and the reverse lights (or burning out more likely). I do have some 2 input to 1 output diodes used in trailering that would do the job. Just haven't got brave enough to start cutting wires yet. I did drop the spare tire so I could get a good look at the wiring harness going into the tailgate. There is a connector there so you can remove the tailgate if necessary. I could probably figure out the camera's power wire at this location and run a wire from cab to the connector with a waterproof splice but that would be more work. Would still need the dual diodes to prevent current from going back to the cab and attempting to energize the rear view mirror and back up lights. An online company called Camera Source supplied me with a handy adapter that allowed me to splice into the video feed to the rear view mirror in the driver's left kick panel so I could also get video on my radio. Does ok. Not high resolution and not so good at night. They do make an aftermarket high resolution, higher night sensitivity camera that is a direct replacement for the OEM camera. Plugs right into the existing socket under the tailgate so do not have to run all the way to the cab. Not cheap but simpler.

I installed a Kenwood stereo a while back. I was able to find an adapter on line that allowed me to splice into the back up camera video feed wire in the driver's kick panel so I could display the video on both the rear view mirror and the Kenwood. Not the best picture but easier than running wire to the tailgate. The Kenwood also has a power and ground wire for a back up camera. If I could connect it to my OEM camera, I could turn it on whenever I want (like to check on my boat trailer). Is the power wire for the back up camera accessible in the cab somewhere? My Chilton's guide wasn't much help. I am concerned about just splicing into a wire and sending current up and down stream that could damage something. I do have some of those trailering diodes that allow you to connect two power sources to a single wire so that should prevent and current backing up the back up camera power wire. I really don't want to run a wire the length of the truck to splice into camera wire in the bundle under the tailgate. Thanks much.