Jump to content

DHBWA

Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    124

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

 Content Type 

Everything posted by DHBWA

  1. DHBWA
    Flaring the ends is smart. I didn’t and also didn’t remove the lines which made flaring virtually impossible. I had a slight weep until I double clamped them with some higher quality narrow clamps I bought on Amazon. If I knew then what I know now I could have done the whole job in one hour or so without any leaks (rework)
  2. DHBWA
    Anyone have or are annoyed by the rear doors sounding like they need lubed when opening or closing? Sounds dry somewhere and feel draggy…. Can’t figure out what to lube…???
  3. DHBWA
    Moved the wide clamp down over slight flare which left enough room nearer the end for a standard clamp. So now it looks goofy but isn’t leaking. Probably could just double up on std clamps. With just the wide clamp socked down I could still rotate the hose but can’t now…
  4. DHBWA
    I bought 1/2” hose and the wide SS T-Bolt clamps. Easy job cutting the crimp and removing old hose but no matter what I have an ever so slight weep. The hose slid on too easy but it’s definitely 1/2”. i hate thinking about going to 3/8” hose. 7/16 would be perfect but can’t find any…. Going to try standard clamps doubled up and or flaring the line a smidge more. Easy fix if I can seal it 100%. It’s actually just the two in front and lower. Weird the two harder to reach connections seem dry….. any ideas??
  5. DHBWA
    As soon as I get home and it dries out I will…
  6. DHBWA
    Is the factory hard line just ahead of the rubber sections truly 1/2” OD? I am considering using a 1/2” compression to 1/2” barb fittings with 1/2” oil cooler hose but if that factory aluminum line is metric it likely won’t work……
  7. DHBWA
    Not me but over the years I’ve read on here of multiple failures and horrid execution of the repair……Why I DREAD going to any shop…..
  8. DHBWA
    Did you apply sealer to the top of the actual window or just seal the spoiler? You must do it all and don’t spare the sealer. Especially on the very ends. Both of my trucks had minimal sealer on the right side. I actually had to redo the right on my personal truck. The factory had almost none and I didn’t pour (slang) in enough.
  9. DHBWA
    Mine are weeping but not enough to worry about “yet”. Not really looking forward to replacing like for like. Just replacing the hose by cutting off the crimped ends seems doable but the lack of barbs spooks me. what about these https://www.fitzall.com/CR-1017.php or am I just adding another potential catastrophe failure point….?
  10. DHBWA
    Buddy has the B&M and likes it….
  11. DHBWA
    I’m sure you know but you only have to pull the headliner down enough to remove the spoiler nuts. It’s really not that bad. Even if you crease the headliner it’ll straighten out after a day or two…
  12. DHBWA
    The repair on my two 2019’s is still holding after two years of living outside. I did the permanent fix by removing spoiler and completely sealing the top of the slider.
  13. DHBWA
    I sealed both our 2019’s almost 2 years ago and so far they are leak free….Both leaked prior and the GMC had a fairly significant crack in the frame looking from inside… Been raining quite a bit and been checking and all good…
  14. DHBWA
    $375
  15. DHBWA
    Had it on my 2019 5.3 8 spd for almost a year. Worked as advertised. I just don’t use all the functions so went with a disabler. Sent it in for a preventative check before selling. $399 shipped
  16. DHBWA
    For a 2019 5.3 but looks like they are universal…..Any color
  17. DHBWA
    Sold
  18. DHBWA
    Form small strips around each penetration.
  19. DHBWA
    Leak free for a year on two. I did the whole job.
  20. DHBWA
    Never used . I don’t think I have even opened the box… $50 shipped
  21. DHBWA
    Exactly. It’s not as bad as it sounds….. especially the second one.
  22. DHBWA
    If I wasn’t going to remove the spoiler I would spray out and dry the cavity on top of the window and then buy about six tubes of the Permatex WS flowable sealer and start after it. Probably two layers. I am sure on my two the leaks weren’t coming from the penetrations but the numerous and several large cracks plus on one the lack of sealer on the right side. This would be pretty easy to try and if successful it’s a twofer…. Leaked fixed and a feeling of accomplishment!
  23. DHBWA
    The ones that hold the spoiler on. You really need to read this post….Please…. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/255000-diy-sliding-window-leak-permanent-repair/
  24. DHBWA
    I used rope caulking around every penetration on the spoiler and the silicone on top of the window. IMO no need to put any additional sealer along the top edge of the spoiler. If you seal every penetration it can’t get inside. You could also use rope caulk under the nuts on the inside to double up
  25. DHBWA
    I used one tube of this https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Supreme-Silicone-2-8-oz-Clear-Window-and-Door-Caulk-2764358/317089192 plus two tubes of the W/S sealer
×
×
  • Create New...