DHBWA

Checked my truck after removing the spoiler and sealing the entire top and after a hard rain there was one little drip on right side. Wet right at the connection for the defroster and can’t see where it came from except that it wasn’t from the two bolts. I cannot fathom where it could leak unless it’s at the urethane seal on the extreme outer edge where I may not have gotten any sealer….Argh

It’s as big as I’ve seen…I’ll post a pic tomorrow…..

Anyone that used flowable silicone have there slider glued tight as silicon flowed into a large crack? my wife’s truck has one large crack in the frame. Probably a .030-.045” wide in the lower face on the inside. We live in a fairly dry climate so she has been dragging her feet on what to do (typical for her)…. Last thing I would want is to have that sealer flow in that large crack and glue the slider solid. On hers I was seriously considering cleaning the track best I could and just use Permatex flowable window sealer without removing the spoiler…... If did it like mine and remove the spoiler I would just put one layer of premium GE silicone first to prevent it from flowing into the large crack. Maybe the silicone can’t get to the glass…..? Not sure…. Thoughts???

I just spoke to a local glass shop and they have been installing aftermarket sliders that “he said” are made differently and thusly can’t leak (from that location) If I replace mine it will be with an aftermarket unit.

I’ve read about 1/2 of the 200+ posts and haven’t seen it mentioned that if the leak is from the cracked window frame it shouldn’t get the headliner. A wet headliner almost certainly is a leak from the spoiler attachments…???

Here is what I used. Winnerbe 2Pcs Adjustable Car Truck Bonnet Alarm Light Hood Door Pin Switch 69mm Universal https://a.co/d/84PLAjL

Here is what I would use next time as you can assemble it and then push it through the hole. X AUTOHAUX Adjustable Door Pin Switch Car Engine Trunk Waterproof and Rustproof Universal Gold Tone https://a.co/d/3JW86E0

True. Good idea

I had considered that but for me the door switch is fine. Just wanted full disclosure for others.

Only downside is the lights stay on all the time the tailgate is down. For any reason….No biggie to me but it could be to others…

Just finished my ‘19 Silverado that had several minor leaks. Total of 5 cracks. 3 were fairly large. I have done lots of caulking on several home projects and when I built engines. I laid in a goodly coat of premium clear silicone and top coated it with the w/s sealer. I can’t imagine how it could leak. my only reservation (after putting it back together) is I didn’t put any sealer around the two plastic alignment pins nor the four bolts. I honestly didn’t think about those alignment pins….The bolts have a built in seal so less concerned about those. edit— I just figured out the pins wouldn’t need sealer…

I tapped the trailer 12v circuit and added a door type switch as I didn’t want to have to use the FOB to turn on the added lights. Tailgate drops, lights come on.

Daniel - any update?

No. Mine is a 2019 5.3 8spd. No issues with the Pulsar. One time after about a week the truck went goofy and acted like it didn’t recognize the FOB. Wouldn’t start. I panicked and unplugged the Pulsar and it started. Got home and plugged it back in and has worked flawlessly. I hadn’t owned the truck long so I’m not sure if I did something screwy…..

So you lose the original rear view unless you power off?

Already LED….

Installed a Hooker straight thru packed muffler. To me it’s a Magnaflow copy. It’s quieter and thusly the decel putt putt is less noticeable. Although quieter overall it seems to drone more at 70. I really really prefer the crisper higher pitch of the Flowmaster. Just need to decide if I can ignore the decel puttering with the FM. Hope this helps someone someday…

Anyone have access to Identifix or GM service to determine the correct Kent Moore pinion seal driver for 9.5 / 9.76 supplier A rear axle??

Another tidbit. Removed the Range Pulsar to have some work done at the dealership and with it removed 90% of the low speed - low rpm decel put-put noise. Obviously something to do with the DFM. Of course it makes other awful noises….. Have an appt next Thursday to do some muffler tests but not convinced I’ll get what I want….

Thanks Cam. Makes sense and supports my thoughts that it probably won’t matter what muffler I have except to say the quieter the muffler the less I will hear it.

Covered them all for the return trip. Too loud for me and the put-put-put at slow decel was pronounced. Probably stick with having them all uncovered. Wish it was just a tad louder but I have a history of fixing things until they are broke…..I better quit while I am 90% satisfied……

Same.

Uncovered the resonators for the commute. Cruising there is zero drone and sounds almost stock. Idle and acceleration is throaty but subdued to an adult level. I will probably cover all resonators for tomorrow’s commute and see…..

With all resonators uncovered it quieted it down overall and subdued the put-put that it’s mostly a non-issue. I doubt I will install the Hooker. I tried it again this morning with all 6 resonators covered and didn’t notice any drone and really like the sound. The put-put was louder but that is almost better if it’s going to do it. More to come…

I just figured out that your FlowFX muffler isn’t a chambered muffler. It’s Flowmasters version of a Magnaflow (oval glass pack) so my idea of going to a Hooker VR304 probably won’t help…..