UmMerkur

Replaced the shocks and springs with OEM. Driver's side shock was completely locked up and was pretty much sitting on the bump stop. Was a bear getting the spring off. Passenger side still moved but was also leaking. When I took the bottom shock bolts off the suspension dropped two inches. Not good haha Rides much better now and I gained about two inches in the front. It's not butter smooth, but I'll take it over what it was. Maybe a calibration will improve the rider further. I'll give the dealer a call and see what they think.

I do have the 22s, so that tracks. I'll slap shocks and springs on it and see what happens. Probably give my dealer a call and see what they charge for a calibration, if needed.

So my '17 XL Denali (magneride, autolevel, 6ZS/7ZS springs) sits low in the front (at least I think it does, compared to others and the tires scrape on hard turns) and the front is excessively stiff. Almost feels like it's sitting on the bump stops. Rear end is fine, normal ride height and normal softness, very easy to jounce. I unplugged the shock on the drivers side and tried jouncing the vehicle but it made no difference. Very stiff, especially compared to the rear which is nice. The shocks (and I think springs) are OEM, BWI. So, can/do these springs sag this much over the course of 5 or 6 years? The shocks aren't leaking as far as I can tell. Either way, I'll be replacing both with OEM, and will see what happens.

Got a call Friday (the 17th) that my Yukon was ready to be picked up. "Huh?" was my response, last I had heard the part wasn't coming. It ended up turning up. Go figure. #2 exhaust lifter failed and scored the camshaft, cam and all 16 lifters replaced.

Story time... The parts guy found a VLOM through another dealer, no idea how, but he did. It was shipped to this other dealer who then decided nah, we keepin this fam, sucks to be you.

One of the service advisors at the dealership said they've been getting some every 2-3 weeks, but the holidays likely disrupted that to a degree. They had all the other parts in stock or overnighted (lifters, camshaft, gaskets, etc.). They also had the parts to replace the transmission temperature sensor (the ol' P0711). It is indeed poo, but what can you do? For now my Yukon is just chillin. I dunno if they opened a SPAC case, but I imagine that wouldn't help any if GM isn't releasing parts from the PDCs. Edit to add: there are several other vehicles at the same dealership waiting on VLOMs.

A 'nothing happening' update: still waiting on a VLOM over a month later.

I figure I should add an update here for the poor guy that ends up here in 10 months wondering what happened. They had another tech take a look who determined that the noise was indeed a lifter rubbing on the camshaft. Camshaft and lifters are being replaced, just waiting on a VLOM. It has enough miles that not replacing the VLOM is just asking for leaks. They are seemingly perpetually on backorder.

An interesting development: the techs at the dealership went looking for the noise and they say it's coming from the transmission. Two days ago it threw a P0700 code (generic TCM code) and when the tech scanned it, P0711 - temp sensor. I'm guessing bad transmission harness which I believe has the temp sensor integrated. Probably unrelated to the noise, just coincidental. It sounded so much like a lifter rubbing on the cam shaft (noise was at half engine speed, ie cam shaft speed), even the service adviser and tech thought it was a lifter. Unfortunately I have to leave it at the dealer to keep my place in line for the transmission tech, possibly two weeks... bummer. And they don't have any loaners. Quick edit to add: the noise became more frequent and didn't always go away once hot. Some days it was quiet and only started chirping once it got some load on it and would come and go after that. When I drove it to the dealer it was quiet until we started the engine again, and it was super obvious.

I appreciate the offer, dunno if you'd be able to help since I'm outside of the factory warranty period. I haven't checked the AC compressor belt theory yet, but at this point I think the noise may be internal.

If it's internal I'll just let the dealership deal with it. When I have some time I'm going to check the AC tensioner, vacuum pump again (in the video the noise seems to coincide with the pump pulley rotation), and check for loose bolts. It doesn't get any louder when the oil cap is removed, so I'm not sure if it's actually internal. Could be though. If my attempts are fruitless, to the dealer it goes!

Added a video to first post. I'll copy the link here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oz_hsemg_kE Sorry for the delay, it's been a busy week. Another update: it is not anything serpentine belt related, I removed the belt and the noise remained. With a mechanics stethoscope (long screwdriver) the noise is loudest from the block, can't tell exactly where though. AC compressor and vacuum pump were quiet.

Hello everyone, first post here. Had a 2010 Suburban for a while but upgraded to a newer Denali. Last week I purchased a 2017 Yukon XL Denali. When I bought it the engine sounded completely normal from cold to hot, direct injection ticks and all. The only thing not working was the power liftgate which I fixed in ten minutes. It started making a rhythmic squeak or chirping sound that sounds like many of the videos I've seen of failed/failing lifters rubbing on a cam lobe. However, it completely goes away once the engine is fully warmed up, ie after 10-15 minutes of driving. No CEL, no vibration, runs great. Does not sound like anything serpentine belt or accessory related. Does not change whether AC on or off. Frequency follows RPM. It can be heard from everywhere around the front of the vehicle, but under the hood it's loudest on the passenger side. It's just barely loud enough to hear in the cab with HVAC and radio off. I'm wondering if it's a gunked up oil passage, sticky lifter, an exhaust leak, rocker arm, or I suppose it could be a failing lifter. The dealership changed the oil a few weeks before I bought it. I haven't even put gas in it yet. Worst case, I do have a warranty that covers the engine and internals. But I'm hoping it's something easy I can fix myself. I'm might try the ATF in the oil trick to see if it's just gunk. And I'll take a good look to see if it's an exhaust leak. Any ideas or tips? Thanks! Edit to add: oil pressure 40 PSI cold,~30 hot at idle. Edit 2: Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oz_hsemg_kE Just after starting, engine was cold.