Davew277

Well, some people aren't open to learning. They don't even read the owner's manual because they already know it all. I can see why this HD forum is rather small compared to most forums I've been on. It's only takes a few to ruin it for all. I don't want to deal with people like this and I don't have to. Take care!

Nevermind.

They use the same transfer case, which is why I mentioned it. It was even stated earlier in this thread. But good job at trying to pick apart a comment intended to help people. I guess you don't know that DODGE is a Chrysler. They have a 3500 too, maybe you've heard of it? They are not AWD vehicles and they have the Auto function as well. Maybe I need to post the owners manual from that vehicle too. Right back at ya!

Auto is NOT 4wd, not by a longshot. If you want to know for sure, try going off-road using only Auto. Then switch to 4H or 4L. It's a night and day difference. I have went off-road extensively and have tried Auto in that scenario. I only use 4L on my acreage. Auto transfers power to other wheels when the primary drive wheels (in the rear) lose traction. It is a high tech traction control system, not full fledged 4wd. Some Chrysler models use Auto full time and have options to engage 4wd in addition to this. Read the owners manual if you have any doubts. There are warnings about using 4wd modes on dry pavement. There are no such warnings about using Auto on dry pavement. I rest my case. Any further discussion from me on this subject will be redundant and therefore pointless. Do what you want.

It's not my money, it's a warranty issue if it fails at any time for me. I have a lifetime warranty on my powertrain. I guess my Jeep will be in the shop soon along with every other Trailhawk owner out there since it's always on auto with no way to disable it... Using your doors will cause your door hinges to wear out prematurely. I guess you shouldn't use those either. To each his own. The only real downside is the slight impact to mpg. I'm not concerned about mpg. There is no evidence that using the system full time will cause any breakdown in the powertrain before other powertrain components fail. Most people will sell their trucks long before it will even become a potential issue, and the people that do will surely have other powertrain issues before they have issues resulting from using auto mode. But if people want to keep their front powertrain in great condition for the next owner of their vehicle, have at it. It will not have any impact on the resale value, at all. Edit: It will not engage on turns unless it loses traction. People clearly have no idea how this system works. Auto is 2wd until a wheel slips. If the wheel slips then obviously 4wd was needed...

Sorry, I don't buy it. You do what you want, I'll do what I want. According to you, this is the same transfer case as my Jeep has and it's full time auto, there is no 2wd option and it's not AWD, and Jeeps aren't dying left and right from it. Even if it does fail, it's a warranty issue. The owner's manual makes no statement about leaving it in auto being a bad thing. If it was it would be mentioned as a condition which would not be covered under warranty like they do with many other things. I also read that Police vehicles are required to remain in auto mode at all times. I don't buy snake oil. Show me proof that full time auto mode is bad and will cause a failure in under 200,000 miles (which is the expected life of our vehicles), or else it's just conjecture. I don't care if it will fail at 400,000 miles...

Auto is nice. My Jeep uses it all of the time. There is no 2wd option in my Jeep. The difference between our trucks and my Jeep is that in my Jeep there is no 4wd high option. There is a 4wd low option and 5 different auto options to choose from (auto, snow, mud, etc...). It's always on auto unless I'm not on clean pavement. I leave it on auto for rain, but when it snows I usually select the snow option, but I have forgotten to select it a few times. I use 4wd low when I'm on my property in the Ozarks since I'm not even on gravel there. It's just dirt, rocks, foliage and tree stumps. I had to carve my own trails through the trees with a chainsaw for my Jeep and my ATV. I plan to use auto all of the time on my 3500 too. I don't see any good reason to not use it. It only engages when it's needed. Otherwise it's in 2wd.

+1 on this. I bought in Coeur D'Alene, ID (near Spokane, WA) and got my 3500 AT4 for $5k under MSRP with some other dealer perks as well. I placed the order on 10/04/22 and it has been built and shipped already. The ETA is 01/13/23 and I've already made plans to collect it the following week as the dealer told me that their vehicle usually arrive within +/- 1-2 days from the ETA. So that's just a tad over 3 months from order to pickup. However, like as was stated above, it's unlikely that you will get a 2023 ordered and built now. My order was on 10/04, but the build didn't start until 12/05.

Update: The dealer informed me today that the truck has shipped and has an ETA of 01/13/23. The order was placed on 10/04/22.

My dealer just told me today that my 3500 AT4 has shipped and has an ETA of 1/13. So it will have been about 3 months and change from time of order until delivery. My order was placed on Oct 4th.

I agree. If you can't live with it then change the pads to another brand and maybe change rotors too. The Brembo brakes on my sports cars always squealed. The only fix was to buy softer pads. But the softer pads will fade at a lower temperature. Which means they are less likely to stop you in time at triple digit speeds. In other words, if you go with softer pads to get rid of the squeal then your brakes may fail on you when towing 25,000# going downhill when the squealing pads would not have failed. I was always told that quiet brakes are not as efficient as brakes that squeal. Pick your poison. Edit: That may be why the issue persists after warranty replacement. Because GM is not going to put pads on a truck that will fail when operating at the stated limits just because they are quiet. Because then people would be cursing them for that too. If you don't intend to operate your vehicle anywhere near the limits then maybe you can install softer pads and not have to live with the squeal.

The vehicle I'm referring to right now is a 2019 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I haven't taken delivery of my 3500 AT4 yet, it's built and awaiting shipping. It may just be differences in the models then and not just a country spec. But in any case, my fog lights do not need to be toggled on and off. Once toggled on, they are always on with my low beam headlights. They turn off with high beam headlights, but automatically come back on with the low beams. Unless the switch is toggled back to off.

My fog lights come on when I start my vehicle. My vehicle remembers if they were on or off when the vehicle was turned off. So I have never touched the fog light button other than the first time I turned them on. Maybe yours turn off because your vehicle is configured for Europe where it is apparently illegal to drive with fog lights when there is no fog, as you stated. So according to your logic, there must be a reason that they stay on for me, correct? Whether or not they are pointless when not foggy is relative. Just because you do not see a point to using them when there is no fog does not mean that there is no use for them other than in foggy conditions.

All of the portable refrigerators I've looked at lately have a 12v adapter that plugs into a cigarette lighter. They state 60w of power at ~115v which is about 1/2 amp and it's about 5 amps at 12v. These 12v plug-ins are usually fused for 10-20 amps. I guess at 60w you could use 12v or 120v in our trucks.

It is standard on my 2023 3500 AT4. I don't know what trim levels have it as standard though. But I already have plans to install a 2000W inverter. I haven't decided how I plan to do it yet. When I get my truck I'll take a look and decide then. I may attempt to rewire the existing outlets or I may leave them and install the 2000W inverter alongside the existing setup.