The warranties start when you buy them. And since you don't have to buy them at the time of buying your vehicle, you have the potential to shop around and extend the warranty a bit longer. I've heard their is value in locking in the coverage you want within the first year, or less than 16K miles. Otherwise, you may not qualify for new car pricing. I've heard others say you should lock it in before the end of the 3 yr/36K warranty. I typically wait until the end of the first year, with less than 16K miles. That way, when you buy the warranty, you essentially get a free year and additional miles. However, when I did this for my current 2019 truck, they didn't seem to offer a plan which would provide coverage over a total of 100K miles. I wonder if GM is limiting their exposure on the new platform??
+1 for the Diamondback. Yes, it's expensive. But, it will last a long time. I've had mine almost a year, and it still likes new. I followed the "buy once, cry once" approaches and have no regrets. What I like about it: 1) Durable. You can put 1,600 pounds on top (though I see the side rails of are only rated for 1,000 lbs). I expect many years of use of this cover. 2) Utility. My favorite thing is dropping the multi-tailgate on my GMC, which gives me an easy way to walk up and sit on top of the Diamondback. 3) No water issues for me, though you do need to adjust it to make it so. 4) It's made in the US from a great company that cares about their customers.
I would actually consider keeping and using the safe. I like having some cash, my registration/insurance card and other items in a bit more secure location. At least if I get my truck washed or serviced, those things don't get accessed. I have one in my truck and love it. I also have the organizer that sits above the safe, and it keeps the things I need at hand.
I have one on my AT4 and I absolutely love it. The thing is built like a tank, high quality parts, top tier manufacturing, made in the USA, excellent customer service, and provides a ton of utility. I get a lot of comments of how awesome it looks. While nothing is 100% safe from thieves, I having no issues leaving things in the bed of my truck. And no fear of water getting in. I got the HD model, which is rated to support 1600 pounds. But, I see in the owners manual GM suggests no more than 1000 pounds on the side rails. But it sure is handy to haul stuff on top of the cover. There is a great discussion in the Tacoma World site about the Diamondback that sold me on it. It's expensive, but it's built to last. I have no regrets.
One of the benefits of the AT4 is the technology options. The rearview camera and the all-around camera view is probably my favorite item. It certainly makes parking the beast simple. No blind spots, and you know exactly how close you can get to a wall or another car. Not having to fix the truck, or worse, another car certainly makes it worth it. And if you plan to go off-road, you need the camera views. I also like the HUD display more than I thought I would. I can take or leave the sunroof. I'm tall, and would prefer the extra headroom, but dealers around here always order them when they add the extras. The lane assist is actually helpful, and the warning of a collision is helpful. Did you know the seat vibrates to alert you - the left side vibrates if you are close to hitting something on the left, same on the right. Both go off if you are backing into something or if thinks you will hit something. Overall, I love it and love what it provides. The big downside of course is when the technology items start having issues...
Limelight: Awesome information and thanks for the pics! I love the idea of an auxiliary fuse box, and your setup looks clean. Nice job! This is probably how I'll end up doing it. Oldman: Thanks for the suggestion, but there are a few reasons: First, the 120-volt plug is only on when the engine is on (and I'm looking for continuous power), next, the power provided by the trucks invertor is probably a step sin-wave (which I understand is not ideal for electronics) and finally the fridge is optimized for 12-volt (so I would lose efficiency by leverage two invertors to power it).
I'd like to run a 12-volt line to the bed of my AT4. What's the best way and path? This is to connect my GoalZero Yeti or run my ARB fridge. Should I just run a line directly from the battery? From the fuse block? Could I just repurpose the power outlet already in the bed - where I use the existing wire, and tap it into a different source and change the plug adapter to an Anderson powerpole?? I appreciate any guidance.
My AT4 has a 400 watt inverter (stock) that is shared between the plug in the center console and a plug in the bed. It's nice to have the extra amps. Does anyone know the specs of this inverter? Is it a modified sine wave, or a pure sine wave inverter? I see the previous gen stock trucks with the option only had a modified sine wave 100 watt inverter. Thanks!
A good way to see what is actually on the dealer lot (without the marketing fluff the dealer site presents), including the details you need: VIN, complete options installed, the actual window sticker and pricing, is to use the www.gmfamilyfirst.com website. Any dealer add-ons will not be listed, such as after-market tires. This is the employee portal, which I've been fortunate to leverage for many years. In the past, you had to have a log in. This is not the case any more. Just go to the website > tools > build & price. Enter your zip, select the options you want, then search. Of course, it shows the employee price you would pay if you qualified for "GMS" pricing. This gives you a basis, but more often than not, this is lower than the deal you would get negotiating. Not always the case of course.
I'm curious about this as well. I think the knobs in my GMC are quality, but look like muffin tins to me - too much shine! If you can't easily replace the knobs, any ideas on wide black rubber bands to wrap around the knobs? Ideally, ones that match the ribbing of the knob.
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