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About Starrman

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  • Birthday 02/24/1971

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    St. Louis, MO
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  1. I thought there were 2 wires needing to be hooked up to the 2 studs in front of the engine bay fuse box, along with the fuse? Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
  2. I'll probably take it to a dealership and have it checked out sometime then. Of all the running around I did today it only didn't come on when I started the vehicle twice, but then came on a few minutes later. The rear blower still works fine and I have a couple of the adjustable ceiling vents over the back seat kind of pointing towards the front so it's not too bad when it doesn't come on. I checked over the wire harness when I replaced the resistor pack and cabin air filters a couple days ago. It looked fine, no signs of over heating. Had a black connector plug and different colored wires on it and wrapped in thin electrical tape. A couple of the wires in the harness looked to be a pretty heavy gauge, heavier than the others. Maybe it's been replaced already. I've owned it since '07 and bought it from my father in law who bought it new in '01.
  3. I haven't spent any money on it yet. The resistor pack I had was still under warranty from when I put it in last year because the stock one was fried. I got the replacement at no charge, but apparently that was not the problem. I figured it or the wiring was the problem seeing that when the blower wasn't working I could tap on the bottom of resistor pack and the blower came on. All the wiring and connectors looked fine. Figured there couldn't be too many different parts that could be causing this problem and that they wouldn't cost more than a diagnostic trip to the dealer...lol How much does the dealer (or a shop) charge for an assesment or labor nowdays? It's been very, very long time since I took any of my vehicles in to a shop for work. I do just about everything myself...lol
  4. So the manual HVAC control unit with the 3 knobs is that complicated?
  5. I searched and read older posts about this problem and read about the wire harness over heating and melting and making only partial/intermittent contact and also that GM extended the HVAC warranty to 10 years and 120k miles. Well I'm only at 119k miles but the vehicle is an '01. I have manual HVAC controls by the way... I replaced the blower resitor pack last year because I was only getting speeds 4 and 5. That fixed that problem. Just recently the blower would stop working on all speeds. Sometimes it works fine, but then shut off vehicle and run into store and come back out and then it won't work. Drive for a while, like 10-15 minutes then it comes on. The rear works fine. I thought it might be the resitor pack/relay sticking or maybe the wire harnes melting and pulled the panel off and checked the wire harnesses and all looked fine. When I was down there I started vehicle and blower was not working and I tapped on the relay part of the resitor pack and the blower kicked on so I figured it was a bad resistor pack. I exchanged it for a new one under warranty and blower worked fine for the first 2 days, then all of a sudden back to working intermittently. Could the blower motor have a short in it causing this problem? Is there anything else besides the actual blower speed contol knob on the dash that sends a voltage signal to the resistor pack/blower motor that could be sticking/going bad?
  6. a C-clamp may not give you enough oomph to get it drawn in. Hopefully you have an air impact wrench. Put a few big washers over the stud then use a spare lug nut and draw it up with the impact wrench. Remove the nut and washers and you're good to go Also, concerning if there is enough space to pull the stud out the back of the hub or not, usually the backing plate/flange area is shaped with an area where you can rotate the axle hub around to where the stud will line up to that area and allow you clearance

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