Come on Chevy Guys, how do ya do it, how do ya change ignition timing without the ECU throwing a P-code and turning on the "CHECK ENGINE" light?
The difference between the correct (Retarded) ECU timing and Hot rod timing is; NO burn out and a Good tire smoking Burn out. So, the power is there. Please, do tell ALL how to turn off the "CHECK ENGINE" light for this Ignition timing issue.IMG_4137[1].HEIC
Reference;
No ya can't move the distributor around anywhere ya want cause, the distributor hold down (crows foot) fits the Distributor shaft housing so tight there is not much room at all for clocking the Distributor.
No ya can't move the distributor around anywhere ya want, as I read in an earlier post the Crank shaft position sensor is ECU monitored against the relative position of the Camshaft sensor.
No ya can't move the distributor around anywhere ya want, as I read in an earlier post the Oil Pump tab fits together (like a screw driver to slotted screw) with the Oil Pump slot. So in order to change the timing you need to pull the distributor and turn the pump with a screw driver to a point where an educated guess matches the Pump shaft, Camshaft Gear, Distributor and timing set point. So a Guy really needs to know what he is doing here or the Oil Pump shaft will be crammed down inside the pump and destroy it.
No ya can't move the distributor around anywhere ya want, as I read in an earlier post the ECM (ECU) constantly monitors where the timing is to be set, not the other way around where the Back Yard Mechanic tells where to set the ignition timing and when the Back Yard Mechanic does set the timing which violates these ECU parameters then the ECU Rats a Guy out, throws a code and turns on the "CHECK ENGINE" Light.
Once the check engine light is on then the ECU (PCM) parameters are wrong and other systems as in Transmission shifting get all messed up.