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About jrrod2004

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    M. Cueva
  • Birthday 01/13/1986

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  • Name
    Mike Cueva
  • Location
    Austin Texas
  • Gender
  • Drives
    2015 Impala Limited LTZ
  1. nope, for two reasons: the USB does not supply enough power to distribute and the nav radio will never have the mass USB storage drivers for the interface to work properly.
  2. Battery life?

    dont know about yall but I went with diehard platinum 34/78 since it was made by enersys and branded as diehard. Dont know if they sell em anymore.
  3. mine was originally diagnosed as the springs and mesh inside the base of the seat (under the cushion). Seat was adjusted and I didnt care after that
  4. Supercharger

    Either Edelbrock or Vortech will work just fine. Several things to note due to the age of your truck: - verify that the motor is in good mechanical condition - replace all the small stuff (lifters, rockers, valve springs) if they show any wear - heck at least replace the valve springs. - check all the main bearings and camshaft - most importantly, dont skimp on the head inspection and seals..... probably looking at 10K out the door if you have a shop do it (which I recommend if you have never installed one)
  5. This may or may not help (depending on what you have already done since your last post): EVAP SYSTEM MONITOR DRIVE CYCLE INSTRUCTIONS (1996-2007) Do not turn off the ignition switch during the test procedure. All Readiness codes are cleared when the battery is disconnected or when the ECM/PCM is cleared with the Scan Tool. This drive cycle can be used to determine if the Readiness code for this Monitor will run and complete, and if the MIL will remain off after the vehicle is driven. Operating Range: Whenever a range of values is provided, try to operate the vehicle in the middle of the range. For example, if the vehicle speed range is from 45-65 mph, operate the vehicle at as close as possible to 55 mph. Or if range for Short Term fuel trim is -20 to +20%; try to operate the engine at 0%. Scan Tool Data: There are certain Parameter Identification (PID) values that must be within range before this Monitor will "run". It can be helpful to pull up those PID items on the Scan Tool so an assistant can view them during testing. The Readiness code for this Monitor defaults to "continuous" or "monitoring" because this Monitor runs continuously when the engine is cranking or running. Extremely high or low ambient temperatures may prevent the test from running. If the test is interrupted before completion, do the complete test procedure. If a small leak is detected during testing, a minimum of 3 drive cycles may be required before the EVAP Monitor status will update to YES. Performing a visual inspection (e.g., loose or missing fuel filler cap) prior to running the EVAP test may prevent having to repeat the test. An aborted or failed test will require the vehicle to cool down in order to meet the test conditions to run another test. EVAP SYSTEM MONITOR PRETEST CONDITIONS At least 17 hours have elapsed since the last drive cycle met the test conditions. MIL is off. No Emission related DTC's are present. Accessories turned off (A/C, fan motor, headlights and rear window defroster). BARO signal over 74 kPa. Battery voltage between 10-18v. ECT and IAT signals between 39-86ºF. Difference between the ECT and IAT signals at startup less than 14ºF/ Estimated ambient temperature at the end of this drive cycle between 39-86ºF. Fuel level between 15-85%. Vehicle speed less than 75 mph. TEST PROCEDURE Connect the Scan Tool to the data link connector (DLC), and bring up the Readiness code for the EVAP System Monitor. Start the engine and allow it run at idle speed for at least 2 minutes. Accelerate at part-throttle to 45 mph and maintain that speed until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Drive for another 3 minutes at 45 mph on a flat road without climbing any hills to minimize fuel slosh. Return to the Service Bay and bring the vehicle to a stop, but do not turn off the ignition key. Check the status of the Readiness code for the EVAP System Monitor. The Readiness code should change to YES when the test is done. If it does, return to the service bay and turn off the ignition key. If it does not, check for any temporary codes. If no temporary codes are set, return to step 2 and repeat the test procedure. Notes on EVAP System Monitor (DTC P0455) The EVAP System Monitor tests for large leaks and restrictions to the purge path in the EVAP system. When the enabling criteria has been met, the ECM/PCM commands the EVAP vent solenoid valve "on" and the EVAP purge solenoid valve "on" (to allow vacuum into the EVAP system). The ECM/PCM monitors the fuel tank pressure (FTP) sensor voltage to verify that the system is able to reach a predetermined level of vacuum within a set amount of time. Or like I used to tell customers when I worked at GM: fill 'er up and drive it for 250 miles at 55 mph and make sure that there are no lights on the dash at least for a week before driving it. This allowed the vehicle to not only warm up and stabilize but also dropped the fuel level to the acceptable range and kept a constant load on the system.......
  6. Low Cold Engine Oil Pressure

    Truthfully, I think it is the colder weather contracting some seals and the oil itself thus making this issue a bit more noticeable. I have virtually the same truck as you and am in Austin with the same results. You didnt mention which oil weight you were running but I figure either 5W-30 or 10W-30. As a simple, free test, (if you have remote start), get upwind of your tailpipe, start it up and see what happens over 5-10 minutes. Also notice the smell and see if any sweet smell comes out. If there is no smell (besides exhaust) and no burning of any kind, I would say that you are fine.
  7. A/C tensioner: No, it is the original A/C Belt: No, it is the original
  8. Hey Rob, thanks. I am on my 4th tensioner (warranty replacement)....I have gotten so quick at swapping it, I can now do the swap in 3 minutes at Oreillys. The chirp came back this afternoon....very intermittent only at low speed. inspected the pulleys and they had a little bit of fine dirt. got to spraying, scrubbing and inspecting. squeak is gone again. I dont know if I am missing a plastic part from under the truck or what. Maybe another replacement and a through cleaning on all the pulleys (and belt replacements) will solve the issue. I like the fact that the cleaning is actually working (nothing ever wrong with a little elbow grease). Will keep this posted as anything develops.
  9. Update: it has been nearly a year (ok, 10 months) since that squeal was gone. It came back this weekend after Austin had a good rainstorm. Got annoyed to say the least since I didnt move the truck pretty much all weekend. The storm was bad enough that GPS and in dash radio were reset. After hearing the squeal, I checked the pulleys to verify alignment (they all checked out) so I was left scratching my head trying to figure this one out. Searched online and found a video suggesting to clean each pulley with carb cleaner and the scrubbing it with a bristle brush (for the grooved pulleys) and then using a little bit of steel wool to clean the smooth pulleys. Took off the belt and cleaned that too with the carb cleaner and then scraped the belt grooves as well. Let the cleaner dry off and put everything back together. Quiet as a mouse. Dont know how long the silence will last but it was better than replacing parts....
  10. this may or may not help: http://www.jrrod2004.com/silverado/clockspringswap.html
  11. My Fix On My Silverado Electrical Problem

    Yes. Mine would have various electrical outs and a few service engine soon lights with no codes. it was intermittent and I did the big three upgrade and she has not complained since.... here is my setup: http://www.jrrod2004.com/silverado/bigthreeupgrade.html
  12. 2003-06 DL3 part numbers

    Dont know what the part numbers without the puddle light are but the ones WITH the puddle light: GM DL3 Mirrors (Left 15124827 and Right: 15124828)
  13. 4.8 vs. 5.3

    I agree with all of the above comments with respect. I have the 4.8 with 3.23s out back. It is a very respectable motor as it is part of the LS family. Is it underpowered under some applications? YES. Is it just right for most: YES. Is there a difference in mileage: YES ---> depending on whether you are in the city vs highway. Would I take the 4.8 again in a new truck? YES (but this is my opinion). It is in some respects stronger than the 5.3 or 6.0. Did GM need to kill it off? Probably not but they did. I will happily take a 4.8 and do this to it all day (I still like reading it from time to time): http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_1109_stock_gm_ls_engine_big_bang_theory/ Is somebody going to disagree with me or shoot out some reservations? Probably. Its up you what you want to buy (if you have not already).
  14. Volt meter on 2013 Silverado

    Sorry, GM has had this charging system for at least 10 years or so. Mine does it but it never goes above 15 and never below 11. It does stay on the lower side (not charging) since I replaced the OEM with a AGM that has way more power (than the acid one ever did). He can take it in and they can test it since it is under warranty but the owner's manual does state that this is normal unless an error message comes on the dash (or light).
  15. Possible causes for misfire: Loose wires Frayed Wires Fouled Spark Plugs Coil Packs/Electronics Low fuel pressure the list can go on but I would start there and work your way inward

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