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When my truck arrived in January, I asked the sales guy if the the service department could check the front and rear diff levels during prep. He said, sure, no problem. When I picked up the truck, sales guy said it was all good. Had an appointment today for an oil change at 1161 miles. Figured I’d burn one of “free” oil changes just after break in miles. Requested that they check the diffs since I did not see any paperwork when I got the truck. I requested no tire rotation due to low miles. Service document stated that lube oil and filter service was performed. Also stated that they checked front and rear fluids, t-case fluid and trans fluid, all are in spec. Keep in mind that the diff fluid level should be 10mm below the fill hole opening. No problem found. I’ve been running my tire pressures at 55 to 56psi when tires are cold. Tire pressures were at 60/70 psi after service. I waited a few hours after I got home and put them back to 55psi. Will have to request not to change the tire pressures next time!

I can rotate the phone on the magnet. Once I got the phone aligned to my liking, I tightened down the double socket arm. I just put it together today and haven’t driven on our crappy roads yet but will tomorrow. The adhesive ball piece seemed pretty strong when I tugged on it before mounting stuff to it. I need it to hold up and not break the plastic until I trade in 5 years or more! In case anyone wonders why I mounted my phone instead of using the built in charger by the console, I turn on/off our Blink cameras when we’re coming and going by the end of the driveway and I don’t like having to pick up the phone. I can look at the phone, swipe up and open the screen. I’ve had my phone mounted in my last three 1500 SLE’s to a wooden box with a Ram mount adapted to a Pro Clip phone holder set in between the dash and center seat. I used the double socket arm from the box for this project. The box is now behind the console in my AT4 to hold binoculars and misc stuff.

The day I brought my truck home, I removed the rubber piece off of the square in front of the electric brake controller. It was just a plastic piece with a hole in it for the rubber piece. I ordered some stuff from Ram Mounts the next day. Two weeks later and no USPS delivery, Ram Mounts sent me another order. No one, including the post office knows where the original order is located even with a tracking number. I used the B sized parts, 1" ball. The parts are an adhesive ball mount that I stuck to the square plastic. It had adhesive on both sides. Instructions stated to wait 24 hours before installing anything else. Installed that part yesterday and the rest of the parts today. My phone is an iPhone that is MagSafe compatible with a MagSafe case on it. I had to buy the Apple MagSafe Charger to fit in the Ram piece. I only got this for the magnet to hold my phone. I can charge my phone with the MagSafe charger or use the Lightning to USB cord for charging and Car Play. Apple forum claims that if both are plugged in, the Lightning cord takes precedence.

I thought the aux battery was isolated when the truck was off and connected in parallel when the truck was running so it can charge. I’ll check my batteries tomorrow with the truck off and on.

That sucks that the truck was stolen. I didn’t think it was so easy to steal a modern push start vehicle. I do know that key fobs can be made from scanning signals. I can see where my truck is located on the map on MyGMC app on my phone.

Went through the automatic car wash this morning. Checked the tailgate handle when I got home, was dry, no water got in. Safe to say that normal rain will not get in there. Car wash wasn't the greatest so I went back and went through the manual car wash and sprayed everything real good with high pressure. Got home and there was a smidge of water on the tailgate handle so I'll put some silicone in the holes when I get a chance. With the cap rear door closed and not latched, I pressed the tailgate button and it would not open. I tried it a few times with the same results. After opening the cap rear door, the tailgate didn't open and was not able to pull it open but did push it in the closed position for good measure. So my $3k cap "fix" keeps rain out of the tailgate handle but not high pressure direct spray at the cap door seal and keeps the tailgate from opening.

My truck is still dirty but I took a couple of pics after I got off of the ice today. The rear cap door has a lip over the back of the tailgate. I don't think water can get in there going through the car wash. It doesn't look like dirt and salt made its way in. I'll see if its wet after going the car wash this week. Before I got the cap, my truck was driven naked in the rain and sat in the rain while sitting on the dealer lot before I picked it up. Maybe its all moot, tailgate hasn't had any issues yet.

Considering what the truck cost, the cap is chump change! I’m on my 8th truck since 1984 and have had a cap on everyone one. The rear cap door covers the top tailgate handle where the holes are located. I’ll try to get a pic after I go through the car wash in a few days when the weather warms up. Truck is filthy from our salty roads and traveling 35 miles each way to go ice fishing.

I don’t plan on using silicone or duct tape, it was just a thought. I covered the two holes with a $3k ARE cap! If I notice any water dripping in the holes with the cap door open, I’ll silicone it.

I wasn't sure where the holes are for letting water in the tailgate until I read a detailed post here. The holes in the tailgate handle are covered by the lip of the rear door on the ARE cap on my truck. If it's not a water leak issue, I still wonder if the tailgate would open with the rear cap door latched. If it is a water leak issue, why not just put a piece of duct tape over the holes instead silicone in the holes. On my last 3 trucks, I had the power seat all of the way back to drive. My 24 AT4 HD is the first truck that I do not have to have the seat all of the way back. It does have memory and have it set up for me and my GF. Also have it set for all of the way back for entry and exit.

I’ve had my truck less than 3 weeks. When I initially set it up, Car Play would connect wirelessly but wanted to only connect when the USB was connected. I only needed a short USB to Lightning cord and got an official Apple 0.5m cord at Best Buy. On a 30 minute trip, Car Play would cut about 3 times. I deleted everything and started over only choosing to connect to Car Play with the USB cord. Still had issues using the 0.5m Apple cord. Removed the short cord and connected one of the USB to Lightning 1m cords I had and have not had a Car Play issue yet testing on 45 minute to hour trips. On a side note, the infotainment center went black near the end of of a 50 minute trip today. I remember reading on this forum to hold the phone hang up button until the screen starts reset. It worked and hope it’s not going to be a regular issue.

I like my setup, been in a couple of trucks now. I open the side door and reach in for stuff.

He’s referencing hitting the tailgate down switch when putting stuff in the console. Switches are on the bottom below the heater controls on certain models like AT4 and Denali. Other models have the switches above the heater controls. I think it has to do with whether the heater vents are above or to the side of the infotainment screen.

My last ARE cap had dealer installed LED rope lights on both sides that I could access from either win-door and from the back. One of them from either side was bright enough to root around in the bed for stuff. I ordered my new cap before my truck arrived and had it installed a week ago. It came with a battery powered LED light in the rear center. The owner wasn't in the shop the day I ordered the new cap and the son-in-law that works there didn't let me know that ARE now factory installs Rival LED lights. I saw them on the ARE website but prices for the rope lights. Thought they were still dealer installed until I stopped at the shop this week and talked to the owner. He informed about not installing them anymore and only at ARE. I was disappointed. Owner had some 48" LED rope lights that had 3M tape on them and gave me a deal on them. I unrolled them at home and tested on a 12v battery. I wanted to mount them to the carpet like the old cap had. Bought some 48" x 2" Velcro at Michaels craft store. I cut them into 1/2" strips and put the sticky side to the sticky side of the lights. Mounted them in the same location as the old cap had and wired them to the 7 way connector in the bed with a 5A micro fuse holder and a 2 pin connector. Getting the Velcro on the lights was kind of a pain as the lights were rolled up forever. I think it looks ok from wherever anyone from here could see them! I checked everything during the day and then checked tonight. Surprisingly, the center mounted battery powered LED is pretty bright. One use of the rope lights at night is when it's dark, it's bright enough behind the truck with the rear cap door open to see the crossbow discharge target to shoot at. Pics in order: 7 way connector with harness, ARE center LED light, right LED rope light, left LED rope light, both LED rope lights, LED rope light switches

My truck doesn’t show the recall yet. Crossing my fingers. I wonder if the rear door on my cap would keep the tailgate from opening since it has a lip over the top of the tailgate.

I don’t have a diesel but did an internet search and it wasn’t hard to find. Can always ask the parts person at the dealer.

Non-plow package trucks has shutters or louvers behind the grill that open and close. Read all of that on this forum.

Thanks. I’m 6’ 2” and getting into the side of my HD is a little tougher than the previous 1500 series. I’m going to pick up a plastic folding stool to make it a little easier at times. I mostly reach into the wood boxes in the truck and some of the stuff near the cab near the side window door.

Prefer any other wheel than the ones on the Denali.

I believe the new Duramax diesels come with 2 batteries connected together all of the time. The plow prep package eliminates the shutters. The gas motor can be ordered with the plow prep package and an aux battery. My truck has both even though I won’t be plowing. No shutters on my truck. Aux battery is isolated when truck is off. I did not see the upfitter option when I ordered my truck and forgot to ask about it. When I brought my truck home there was a harness under the back seat that appears to be for the upfitter option without the switches. I would ask your sales person if the upfitter can be ordered with the AT4. Maybe negotiate to have the harness installed during prep.

I made a 45 degree cut on the bottom corners 1/2" x 1/2" so the boards sit on the bed.

This isn't really a mod as much as it's an adaptation from my GMC Sierra 1500 SLE's I've had to my GMC Sierra 2500HD AT4. The boards I took out of my 1500 are about 8" to short. Also, the slots are not spaced the same so I cut new boards to fit and added a 3.5" offset to the boards near the tailgate so my coolers, water jugs, etc. fit going to camp. One is a 2x8 with eye bolts for using bungees and the other is a 2x4 to keep the wooden boxes in place if I don't need the 2x8 and can get the Jet Sled over it with a deer in it. I used two 1x deck boards for the spacer along with 5/16 carriage bolts, washers, lock washers and double nuts. The wood boxes are 48" long, the space between the boards is 48.5". I keep a jack, other tool boxes and bags, etc between the other board (2x3 and the cab. It's kind of tricky getting the 2x8 in and out but I don't swap them to often. Usually keep the 2x8 in for securing gas cans when not going to camp.

This is my first modern 2500 truck and it has the Multi-Pro tailgate. I told the ARE dealer what truck I had on order with the VIN and tailgate and they put the order in to ARE. Never had a problem with any cap from them. All previous cap orders were the same way, they know what I need. I sold my cap from my 2018 1500 last week. It was at the cap dealer and they set it on his truck for him. He had a 2018 Chevy 3500. The cap fit perfect. Pretty certain there is a big difference between 1500 and 2500HD caps now based on the bed length for starters.

If you order a cap from a reputable dealer, they will know which rear door to order based on the configuration of your truck. My truck has the MultiPro tailgate and the cap fits perfect.

Not sure why you’re getting conflicting info for a cap for your truck. Not sure what is normal, your truck bed is 6’ 10”. I get ARE caps for my trucks and have been getting them from the same dealer for over 30 years. The side win-doors makes it a little easier getting stuff in/out. They make them even with the cab or taller. Just got my 8th cap for my 8th truck yesterday. Mine is the the CX series. Maybe you want something like the MX or or TW series.