seadoons

Gunner, I can imagine you are exausted with the problem - I was after only two days of dealing with it. The final outcome is that the problem is fixed after they replaced the TCCM. I have a feeling that they had to do some work with a programmer getting everything to sync back up - so you might try going to a dealer or transmission shop (that has a scanner that can read and program the transmission codes). The end result for me was a new dashboard switch, new encoder motor, and finally a new TCCM. The switch was me trying to fix the problem - the original switch was probably fine. There was a code thrown for the encoder motor so I replaced that...didn't fix the general "stuck in 4WD" problem - so off to the dealer and there was a different code that said the TCCM needed to be replaced. Anyways...thanks for all of the advice. Hopefully someone reading this post in the future that is having a similiar problem will find it helpful.

Thanks for all of the replys. Darin - I am dealing with a different dealer today than I was yesterday. The one yesterday was close to my office - this one is close to my house. I have a feeling that the dealer yesterday was seeing several codes related to this problem and that they thought the encoder motor was causing all of them. I don't think I wasted my time or money changing it out last night - I just think it was one of many problems. I wish I felt more comfortable with all of the electrical stuff. I just hope that at the end of the day - although I will have $1,000 less in the bank - it will be fixed. I now appreciate the simplicity of a floor-mounted transfer case shifter. I don't think you can get those anymore, can you? Probably on a work truck.

Another Update - just got the call from the dealer. It needs a new TCCM (transfer case control module). $880 plus tax. OUCH. Well, I tried everything I could do on my own. I called the local parts store and they don't carry the TCCM so I think it is a dealer only part. Yes, I could order it from that boneyard parts places but I don't really have the time to wait for it to ship and I won't have time next week to install it myself. In addition to all of that, I would have to pay the dealer for all the work they have done up to this point today which would almost be as much as the labor charge I am incurring for them just to fix it. They will also be able to clear out all of the codes too. What a mess. I might be truck shopping soon.

Update: it is currently at the dealer. To answer your questions above - it is a 4 button system and yes, I did have the battery un-hooked when doing the repair. I also left it un-hooked overnight hoping that the code would clear. I took it to the dealer because I think it is the TCCM. They have done some prelim tests on the electrical system and the current code is: -C0324 T-Case Lock Circuit High. They are telling me that either the TCCM is bad or there is a short in the wiring between the TCCM and the encoder motor. I don't really understand all of the electrical stuff so I am leaving it to them. They are tearing into it as I type in order to further test it to see exactly what is wrong. Surprising, they were willing to print out a whole bunch of wiring diagrams to give to me and tell me which specific wires to test out and then they were even going to tell me how to tell what the specific problem was so that I could do it myself. If it ends up being the TCCM it will be $800 for the repair - $500 for the part and $300 for labor. As for the encoder motor that I already replaced, he told me that there are not any codes currently showing that there is a problem with that motor. It was a different dealer that told me that yesterday - and they are thinking that maybe the computer / wiring problems fried the old encoder. Who knows. If it is the TCCM...this entire ordeal will have costed me about $1,100. New dash switch, new encoder motor, and new TCCM. What a nightmare. I am hoping they just fix it - I don't really have the time or patience anymore to keep throwing parts at it, and I don't think I can get a TCCM from my local auto parts store. Thanks again for all of the help!

I changed this part out tonight. Still having the same problem. It actually wasn't too bad to do - take the skid plate off, remove the front drive shaft, take out three bolts on the motor and unhook the two electrical connections. Fortunately the new part was turned just right and I didn't have to make any adjustments to the transfer case. Now - there are two reasons why I am thinking I am still having problems. 1. The intructions say above: Important o If the motor/encoder assembly is being replaced because it is defective, make sure that the transfer case is in the neutral position. Manually shift the unit at the shift shaft. Use a crescent wrench if necessary. I didn't do this. Now, if I were to manually adjust the transfer case to neutral then the new part wouldn't align - so how would that work? I am confused on this one. Maybe they say this is important as the new parts are shipped in the neutral position and they want you to put the t-case in neutral so things will line up? 2. The instructions that came with the new part say at the very end that if there is a transmission code that is still active - which there is (service 4WD) that the code must be cleared before using the motor. Not many places have the ability to clear transmission codes so I guess I will call around in the morning. I had the negative cable off for about three hours while I worked on it...I guess that didn't clear the code. Any thoughts on this? I know this isn't really a commonly discussed subject.

Guys - thanks for all that information. Will the "shift shaft" be an obvious component? Does the encoder motor actually attach or somehow connect to the "shift shaft"? And how will I tell what position "neutral" acually is? I am going to be tackling this in a few hours...wish me luck.

Interesting. So the plan B idea might not work. Any thoughts as to how I can get the transfer case into neutral manually??? MikeyZ - how have you installed the parts you got from the junkyard?

I am sure many of you read my previous post regarding the 4WD problems I am having. The dealer tells me the encoder motor needs to be replaced. Part: $685, Labor: $285 for a grand total of almost $1,100. I just ordered the part from O'Reilly this morning for $180 and I will pay the dealer's $100 diagnostic fee and get it out of there. I have done a lot of research and have a Haynes manual. This looks like a very simple installation (just remove the old one and install the new one. Here is my question: the truck is currently in 4WD and will not come out of it. Supposedly these new encoder motors are shipping in the neutral position. How can I a) get the transfer case into neutral manually, or b) get the new encoder motor into the neutral position manually. I have one opinion that says I should be able to hook up the electrial wire to the encoder motor before installing it and put it in neutral through the dashboard switch, then install it. Will this do any damage to the new encoder motor? Also, does anyone have the tourque specs for the three bolts for this part? I have read 15 ft/lbs but I am not 100% confident on that number. The Haynes manual doesn't have it (where I can find). Thanks for all of your help on this.