Spurshot

The projector has a glass lens and I think the reflector is diecast (zinc/alum) metal.

Got to this thread, page 14. There's a complete explanation of how to fit a 9011. No mods to the truck. The bulb gets some clipping and shaving of the tabs and socket. 10 min job tops. A 9011 is 2350 lumens or about 25% more than the stock 9012 bulb. It's not a big change in light, but it's an improvement. http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/156233-halogen-led-headlight-bulb-upgrades/page-14

A standard 9006 produces 1000 lumens according to Daniel Stern's chart. The stock bulb in a 2014 Sierra is a 9012 and it produces 1870 lumens (87% increase over a 9006). A 9011 bulb (easily fit to a Sierra) produces 2350 lumens (135% more than a 9006). Why would you go down in light output?

That sounds like a great setup. I was just being lazy and didn't want to run wires thru the firewall and install a switch.

Yeah, a lot of guys are using the fogs like a DRL supplement and the #22 jumper is a good deal for that. What bulbs are you running for your Fogs? Some guys are putting Rigid type LED lights in the fog positions or triggering some other high powered lights mounted elsewhere off the fog circuit. For these guys, the #18 jumper retains the fog light push button control function except when high beams are on the fogs come on no matter whether the fog button was pushed.

Anyone running high powered lights on the fog circuit will want to stick with pin 18 to 10, so they can control them and shut them off when not appropriate.

That's great. My particular goal was to use the fog circuit to tie in my LED wide beam driving lights and be able to use them with high or low beam. I cannot have them on anytime the low beam is on since they are too bright for oncoming traffic. I got that done and ended up with the fog circuit being lit anytime the high beams are on and the fog circuit shuts off when dimming the high beams. Very slick when an oncoming car pops over a rise in road and you need to dim all the lights.

The original mod in this thread has one diode from the high beam signal (-) to the fog light signal (-). Not two diodes. But, clearly, you can do all kinds of circuits with the concept as long as you understand the OEM logic and you ensure you're hooking like signals (not positive to negative, etc.). Just read the schematics.

My Baja Designs SII LED lights don't cause any additional static on my XM, AM or FM.

Fantastic. Can you post one more picture with no lights on to see how well (during the day) it "blends" into the grille ? Sent from my iPhone From 5 ft, eye level. From 10ft, eye level.

What kind of fog lights are you running? I think I'll change out the bulbs in my fogs.

Be careful about the terminology. There is a "Headlamp signal" and a Left and Right "... Headlamp Low Beam Supply Voltage". My guess is that the "Headlamp Signal" is from the switch on the dash, which I don't think will do what you want as it is likely a ground. I think you want to tap the "... (L or R) Headlamp Low Beam Supply Voltage" in connector X4, which is the black connector. It's always a good idea to verify the circuit you tap with a voltmeter or light, in this case while turning on and off the low beams.

The main reason I worked to do this mod was so I could do this. The fog lights aren't doing anything for me other than switching on one set of these LED driving lights. No wires thru the firewall and dimming with the high beam lever. So slick.

I finally got the Baja Designs SII LED lights mounted and hooked up tonight. http://www.bajadesigns.com/ I made my own harnesses. That took a lot of time, but it made it fit better. I didn't want to run wires thru the firewall and install switches in the dash. I also wanted the high beam switch to light up all the lights and shut the high powered lights off when dimming the high beams. So, this is how I wired it: I tapped into the fog light fuse (fuse #49) for the power to run a relay for the wide beam set of SII lights. Since I have the "Fog Lights with High Beam" mod, I can power up the wide LED lights with the fogs and they all stay on with the high beams. For the long range SII spot lights, I tapped into the high beam signal at the back of the headlight. I used a simple continuity light to figure out which wire powers the high beam solenoid. This runs a relay that powers the SII spot lights. So, when the high beams come on, the spots come on, and the way the fog light circuit works with the mod, the fogs and wide beam SII lights come on with the high beams regardless of whether you push the fog light button. If you are running on low beams, then go to the high beams, all the SII lights come on, then when you go back to low beams, all the SII lights go out. Very cool control. The bracket was a piece of 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 1/8 aluminum angle. The clamps were 1 x 1 x 1/8 angle aluminum. First pic is my Morimoto HIDs in stock projectors on low beam. This pic is HIDs on low beam, fog lights/SII LED Wide Cornering lights on This is with the high beam HIDs and all the LED lights for a total of about 15,000-16,000 lumens. I can't imagine the need for more lighting than this for my uses. I'm very pleased with the beam control of the Baja Designs SII lights. It's not just 'bright lights', it's actually very well controlled. I highly recommend them. In the cold light of the morning after reassembly. I'll probably have to do something with the yellow looking fog lights now.

Just do the same diode jumper to the DRL signal and/or low beam.

Just don't wear out your high beam switch trying this out.

I started working on installing my Baja Designs SII LED lights. Each pod is 2160 lumens. I have two spots and two wide flat beam lights. Those along with the HID headlights should get the job done. My plan is to wire (with a relay) the LED spots to the high beams. The wide beams will be wired (with a relay) to the fog lights. So I should be able to run the wide LED beams with low beam headlights, and now that I have the fogs with high beam mod, I can get wide LED beams with the high beams. And no wires thru the firewall and no switches to mount. I was struggling with how to mount them and was about to call it a night and then I had a simple idea. To mock it up, I used 2 way carpet tape. This is the mock up. I'll finish the mounting tomorrow.

I did not cut the leads on the diodes shorter. What you see in the picture of the installed diode is a result of pushing the leads down in deeply. I used needle nose pliers to push them in.

What do you know about the output of the Hella fogs? I couldn't find a lumen rating. 9 watts would lead me to believe they are in the 800-1000 lumen range.

Mike If it's not secure in there, you didn't push it in far/hard enough. It should be very tight. No way it should fall out. Don't goober up your wiring with hot glue.

Im looking for ideas on where to mount ballasts. Let's see some pix of your installations.

Glad it worked for you. You're guinea pig #2. I'm the first guinea pig.

Just yankin your chain. The ole "buy more, save more" argument is something I often use with my wife. I'm guilty.

I put in the HIDs in OEM projectors last night. They are brighter, but seem to lack good beam control. BTW, anyone wanting a cheap 9006/9012 4300K kit, I have one http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/162809-90069012-hid-kit-wspare-bulbs-20/ Update: My Morimoto kit with a capacitor harness but no Canbus, DIC gives a "Action needed, roll down driver side window and roll up." Too weird.

BOHICA