Spurshot

I'm in need of an oil change for the truck. I stumbled upon Lake Speed Jr's video on Valvoline Restore & Protect (VRP) oil. I'm thinking I'm going to run a few changes of it to see if I can reduce the oil consumption I have, which is about 1 qt/3000 miles. My engine has ~116,000 miles and may have buildup of carbon on the rings and valves. If I'm right, VRP should help free up the rings, especially the oil control ring.

BTW, if going for a heavy use converter, think about getting a triple disc converter. Sonnax 6L80/90 Torque Converter Heavy-Duty Builds Explained (youtube.com)

So, if anyone needs a torque converter and wants to get something that can take more load, Sonnax makes a triple faced clutch (dual disc) kit. The torque converter reman shop would have to build it up. You might find more information on the Sonnax site. Maybe even a list of some of the reman shops that build converters.

Got my truck back today. Runs like new. Towed my jeep behind on the way home from the transmission shop. If anyone needs a trustworthy transmission shop in the Gardena CA area, Art at Kako Transmissions treated me well, did the mods I wanted and within the quote he gave me.

My trans shop texted pix of new parts and said he's about to start the build on my trans. Billet converter and many upgrade parts for the common problems. He knows I tow my jeep, so he's using his experience to ensure it's upgraded in the right places.

Although I haven't got my truck back and running yet, I'm going to say this shop and the manager Art is trustworthy and knowledgeable. I think I did well to have unhooked my jeep and drive separately up to the Rubicon and back. Looks like the converter was shedding metal pretty fast. I didn't shoot any pix of the fluid I dumped just 20-30 miles before taking it into this shop, but it was gray metallic. So, the metal in the pictures isn't as dramatic as it may have been if I hadn't just changed the fluid right before the teardown. The second picture of the donut magnet is an indication. I found my sticker on the pan today, which said I changed the fluid in June 2022 at 95k miles. It made it to 114k miles. Here's some pix of the teardown. It really isn't terrible. Some wear in the pump, but the clutch packs look pretty good. The one picture of the solenoid screen with metal, would likely have burned the 4,5,6 clutch pack, per Art. Art said he'd have it back together by Tuesday-Wednesday.

I think I found a good shop. The truck has been there since Monday. I spoke with the guy at length about these transmissions. We talked about billet converters. He uses them. We talked clutches, fluids, coolers, got the shop tour, transmissions in build, etc, and I'm convinced this guy knows these transmissions and is honest as the day is long. I told him my use of the truck for towing the jeep. He will do the build himself rather than a big box replacement. I gotta start letting go and having shops do more repair and maintenance work on my vehicles. I'm just too old to do this kind of work any more. I think I've found my transmission guy. Kako Transmissions in Gardena, CA I dropped it off Monday. The trans is out and I'm invited for the teardown this morning. I'm just hoping we don't find so much damage that the parts costs start going up.

Well, I changed the fluid with Amsoil and flushed out some by way of the cooler line and added more and flushed more. Got maybe a 75% fluid exchange. Took it for a drive and it's still there, albeit it's better. But the real news (bad) is that the fluid was gray and looked like gray metallic paint. That ain't right. Not for 5-6k miles. It looked better when I changed it last. I think she's on her last leg. I need to find a transmission shop. I'm about burnt out on working on vehicles. I just finished changing my engine in my 2018 Jeep a couple weeks ago and replacing the driveshaft I bent on the Rubicon trail. At 68, I'm just not up for changing the trans myself in the driveway. It's 4x4 also. Anyone got some recommendations for a good honest transmission shop in southern Cal?

It's at 114,222 miles now. Seems like I changed the ATF about 108k. I'll look into that. I have a record somewhere. I don't know if it's coincidence that this shudder came along shortly (miles wise) after the fluid change or it's related. But, I also started towing my jeep more in the last year than years before. I've probably towed it 5000-6000 miles in the past 18 months, as opposed to maybe 2000 miles the entire 4 1/2 years before that. I appreciate what you're saying about the converter taking out the trans.

Thanks for this information. I'll see if my Palmer Performance app is still active. I suspected the transmission/converter right away and pulled up trans temp on the display. It kept its cool, mostly running in the mid 180s on the flat at 70 ish mph in 100+ ambient temps, while towing my 5000 lb jeep. On the rest of the trip, it would maintain reasonable temps from the 180s to around the 208 range in the Grapevine (pass) while not towing. RPM didn't look to be fluctuating on the factory tachometer. But I was trying to avoid the shudder by running in a lower gear or staying out of the throttle when possible. When I changed fluid a year ago, I put a pan on that I had welded a drain bung on. That should make the job less messy.

Thanks again for that converter reference. I've read on "the other truck forum" that GM had updated their Dexron VI ATF due to "shuddering" issues. I changed my ATF maybe last year or 2022, but hadn't put many miles on it. From what I can tell with my partial gallon container of genuine GM Dexron VI, it's likely the old stuff. The base stock of old GM Dexron fluid (19355656) has the ability to attract low levels of moisture, which can cause degradation of the coefficient of friction of the fluid. The new fluid (19417577) has a new GTL (Gas to Liquid) base stock that is able to tolerate more moisture. Shuddering transmissions and torque converters have been recovered with the new fluid. New transmission fluid tests have been developed due this issue to prevent it from occurring with new transmission fluids." Some owners are going to Mobil 1 LV HP or Amsoil and gotten rid of the shudder. Had a torque converter shudder last week | Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Forum (silveradosierra.com) I also did the pill flip on the thermostat. So, I ordered some Amsoil Signature Fuel Efficient ATF. We'll see. I know even if it "fixes it", it's likely to eventually reveal itself again. I hope to move on to a new truck before it comes around again.

Yes, V8 5.3L. AFM still theoretically active, but never comes on due to the larger tires, topper and heavy load that is almost always in it. It wasn't AFM kicking in, as this was when throttle was rolled in. My gut says converter as well. But have never felt a failing lock-up converter. I have no trusted shop that I've used, since I do all my maintenance. I'm at the mercy of Yelp. What was that better torque converter brand you recommended?

I had the same thought, although I don't have a safe place to put all four on stands, just 2. But it's a 2wd issue anyway. The issue is that it's load/torque related and jacking it and running it unloaded won't get the issue to show. I had the truck on downhills and it wouldn't show at the same speeds, due to lack of load. I'll pull the cover on the rear diff. No big deal. I have lots of gear oil and the cover gasket is metal/rubber.

I did a full fluid and filter change a year or so ago and haven't put more than maybe 4-5k miles on it since. The fluid (GM Dexron) looks clean, pinkish and smells fresh.

2014 1500 CC LTZ 5.3L (6L70/6L80?) 4WD. I was towing my jeep up to the Rubicon trail Sunday, when I noticed the driveline would vibrate/shudder under light acceleration while cruising on the freeway. Never heard this before. We pulled over and checked the rear driveshaft and it all looked and felt good. No grease or debris around the U-joint trunions, etc. No looseness in the U-joints. We unhooked the jeep and drove it the rest of the trip, but we were still getting the vibration. Definitely torque related. Only vibrates/shudders under load. I have some ideas as to what it might be, but I trust the opinion of some of you more. @Grumpy Bear where are you?

I guess we now have an idea what they think "life" expectancy is.

Did you get the brake vacuum pump recall done? I was having the issue sporadically, where the pedal pressure needed to stop was off the charts. Scary as hell. A dealer reprogrammed the electronic brake control module per the recall and I haven't had the issue since. I think I'm going to go ahead with replacing the vacuum pump as well. They also came out with a new vacuum pump with some enhancements. I need to clean up the front of the engine and find the source of a small oil leak. It's either the front crank seal or the small cam VVT actuator seal (3 screws and a O-ring).

101000, still with the OE transmission. Right rear brake pads wore out on a trip recently. They were original to the truck, so not a surprise. But the driver side rear pads looked like they had 1/4" left. Something going on there. The floating caliper bolts were smooth and lubricated. I just put new pads and rotors on it ... oh, and a left rear axle seal. Getting the C-clip out of the axle was a bit of a battle. But I won. I noticed quite a bit of leaning in the turns up in the northern California wine country roads. I found that the right front swaybar strut was missing altogether. I have new AC Delco replacements. Just getting over the soreness from crawling under the truck for the rear brakes and axle seal. Maybe in a day or two, I'll get to it.

As the title suggests, I need a couple headlight lenses to replace my crazed lenses. My headlights are OEM LED from a 2016. Any help would be appreciated.

I think I'd just tell them to change the cooler/(AC condensor?), flush the lines and you'll pay for the new cooler.

I think you meant to say "elastic" instead of "plastic". Plastic deformation is permanent.

The whole "use a torque wrench to tighten your lug nuts" thing is born out of liability from some donks that forgot to tighten the customer's lugs, resulting in their insurance company insisting they use torque wrenches and a calibration system of those wrenches. Don't get me wrong, its a good thing. I come from an aviation safety background. But, lets face it, millions of cars had their lug nuts tightened with an air impact for the better part of the automobile's existence, without any problem. It was a failure to tighten lugs at all that led to this "gotta use a torque wrench" culture. But the truth is that your lug nuts that have a specified 140 ft/lb torque requirement, could be tightend to 90 ft/lbs and work just fine.

IIRC, a condensor is about a 2 oz PAG addition. It's all a bit of a WAG anyway. I'd go with about 1.5 oz and call it a day. A 2018 is about old enough to just go ahead and change the dryer too. I'm kinda in your boat, in that I have all 134 stuff. 2 vehicles with 134 and the 2018 jeep with 1234. I recently stocked up on 134 from Ebay. CA has put enough regulations on 134 that the cost is going up and the handwriting is on the wall, eventually it's going to be regulated out of the state. I'm not sure I have another truck in my future. I'm 67. My 2014 has enough rash on it to make it comfortable to park anywhere but still looks decent and I'm keeping it mechanically up on the step. So, I may need 134 for another 10 years.

Most of my day today was spent either running around for do-dads or waiting on replies to my questions to ADC Mobile. I did get the XM in no sweat, 2 connections. But the cameras were somewhat of a stumbling block for me. Replacing the rear backup OEM cam with a higher def cam was simply plug and play after opening the tailgate up and R&R the camera. I did have to drop the spare tire down a bit to get to some of the harness retaining clips. The front and right side mirror cams were not detailed in any written or video guidance. There are a handful of loose pigtails that have no connectors and the labling leaves some doubt as to what goes where. Additionally, there's some toggling of settings behind the factory settings menu that need to be made and are code protected. These settings are not published nor did I find videos covering them. Walt briefed me in a very short, concise email. It worked as advertised. Once I had the affirmation of the wiring connections from Walt, I ran around town until I found some single conductor Molex style connectors which made the wiring cleaner. Walt has been great. Couldn't have done without him. Wish Linkswell was a lot more detailed on their instructions for the optional equipment. I mocked up the cams and tested the right turn indicator actuation of the right mirror cam and tested the front cam as well. Tomorrow I should be able to route the wires for those cameras

Got the gen5 yesterday. Started installing today. Got the basic wiring done today and fired it up. All ok. Tomorrow, I'll wire the xm and cameras.