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cujo8

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About cujo8

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  • Birthday 01/13/1961

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  1. My original directions posted above were: I added a 3amp, 400PIV diode to the harness between white(85) and black(86) pigtail wires just behind the black socket to give the diode protection to this relay assembly (Diode stripe-end connector should be attach to the white #85. connector). To add the diode to the harness, I used a small jewellers flat blade screw driver to pop out the white and black female spade connectors from the black 5-pin relay connector. I bent the diode leeds so that it matched the spread distance of the white and black connectors when they were in the 5-pin connector. I cut the diode connector leeds down a little. so the diode would just stand ~ 3/16 off the back side of the 5-pin connector where the wires exit the connector. I then soldered the diode leads to the brass wire crimp ends of the white and black female spade connectors on the inside edge. The orientation of the diode is important, so follow the directions in the previous paragraph. Then insert the white and black female connectors back into the 5-pin connector exactly as they came out, so that the white wire connects to the #85 connector on the diode.
  2. First off I want to thank the OP (Diesail) for the great write up on this topic. I basically followed his directions, but added diode protection to the relay harness just to be on the safe side. I now have switched 12V power for my on-board air compressor for my Air-Lift helper spring system. Thanks Diesail. cujo8
  3. I ordered and received my 12VDC automotive 5-pin relay SPDT 30/40A (p/n-330-079) and relay harness (p/n-330-075) from Parts Express and this relay/harness doesn't have diode protection. Just to be safe, I added a 3amp, 400PIV diode to the harness between white(85) and black(86) pigtail wires just behind the black socket to give the diode protection to this relay assembly (Diode stripe-end connector should be attach to the white #85. connector). The diode can be purchased for less than $2 from Radio Shack.
  4. I read the tech bulletin you linked to and it say's: "This bulletin documents the recommended practice of installing of a diode to Aftermarket Solenoids/Relays to Suppress Voltage Spikes (this is in the event Non-Automotive Grade relay or solenoid has been used). This diode installation eliminates potential excessive voltage spike." so it looks like you only need to add the diode if you use a non-automotive grade relay. Is the Bosch 12VDC 5-pin relay SPDT 30/40A p/n-330-079 listed in OP an automotive grade relay? I'm thinking that it is an automotive grade relay and the diode addition would not be needed in this case, correct? Thanks.
  5. I found the Post I spoke about in my previous reply: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=127112&st=0&p=1130561&hl=+windshield%20+moisture&fromsearch=1&&do=findComment&comment=1130561
  6. The other night I was sitting in my truck waiting for my wife to get out of work and I had been waiting at least a 1/2-hour with the truck off and windows up in 35F outside temperature. When I went to start up the truck with the climate controls set on Windshield Defrost the inside windshield surface immediately became noticably moist when the engine started. This leads me to believe that moisture had accumulated in the defroster vents/heater area and when I started the truck the moisture condensed on the cold windhield as it left the defroster. I believe I read a post on this forum quite some time ago talking about this defroster issue, but I can't recall the exact details at this time. Maybe someone else recalls this post?
  7. another problem that will start to occur with all that trapped moisture is mold and mildew and you do not want that to happen. A cheap way to protect your vehicle from these moisture issues when it driven infrequently or in storage, is to place an opened bag of kitty liter inside the vehicle to absrb the moisture. Another product you can use that does the same thing is called DampRid. Hope this helps.
  8. Moldy Smell Since Parked

    These smells can happen when ever you park a sealed up vehicle iside or out is there is any dampness trpped inside the car when you park it. I've had collector vehicles for years and anyone that has ever stored vehicles for any length of time experiences this issue. One fix is when you store your truck you can place an opened bag of kitty litter inside the vehicle and the kitty litter will absorb the trapped moisture inside the truck. There is product that you can buy to do the same thing, but is not as bulky as a bag of kiity litter, it is called "Damp-Rid" and it sold at variety of stores. I bought some at Lowes the last time I bought it. Damp-rid uses Calcium Chloride to absorb the moisture and it works very well. The bottom line get rid of the moisture and you will get rid of the smells. Good luck.
  9. Another possibility is the gas you're now using may have changed to the "summer" blend, which will give you better MPG's. I have a 2011 GMC Sierra with the 5.3L AFM engine that is supposed to get 21MPG on the highway and the best I've been able to get on the "winter" Blend gas was 17.6MPG. I just filled up last Friday and it seems that my fuel economy is starting to improve, since the DIC say's I'm getting 19MPG average right now. I am suspecting that the station I get my gas from may have switched over to the summer blend, but I can't say for sure since the truck doesn't even have 1500 miles on it yet and I've heard that milage can improve after a certain break-in period. Changing the plugs on a higher milage engine is always a good idea regardless and better MPG's are also welcome to say the least. FWIW, I saw a segment on HorsePower TV where they dyno tested a new performance engine with stock plugs and then again with the new e3 spark plugs and they showed measureable performance gains with the new e3 plugs ,but remeber your milage may very.
  10. So then both ports have a tube or barbed style tube connection such that a 3/8" hose can slide over and be clamped in place, correct? If so that is exactly what I was looking for, thanks. BTW, where did you end up mounting your catch can on your truck?
  11. Was the stock PCV line you removed the same 3/8" preformed gray plastic line I mentioned in my original post? Thanks. Jim
  12. I'm getting ready to install an AMW Oil Catch Can kit on my 2011 GMC Sierra ,which has the 5.3L AFM V8 engine and I have a question about the PCV line connections. The line looks to be a 1/2" grey plastic line that runs from the PCV port on the DS rear valve cover location to a port on the top of the air intake manifold. I was thinking about removing this stock line all together and add some fittings to these two port locations and then use the 3/8" rubber hose that comes with the oil catch can kit for this install. Can someone tell me if this plan will work and if so, what size/type of fittings I will need to connect to these two locations? Thanks. Jim
  13. A hole has to be cut for the middle bolts on extended cab models, crew cab models if you peel back the carpet there is a plug that can be removed to access the caged retainer. the retainer has a hex on it so you can put a socket on it and hold it from turning. I work at a GM dealer and have seen many of these. Seems to only be on the '10 models so far. My truck, which I did have an issue with the DS center cab mount is a 2011.
  14. Well I installed my Nasta Step bars today, but it didn't go as straight forward as I would have hoped. I removed all the body mount bolts with an Impact driver and they all came out w/o any issue. I did remove each bolt by carefully bumping the impact driver first CCW and then CW to free the bolts from the locktite. The passenger side went just fine and everything bolted up just fine. On the drivers side I was having trouble getting the middle cab mount bolt to catch a thread while trying to install the center bracket and the bolt was pushed all the way up and I wasn't even engaging a single thread on the cage nut. I then removed the brackets and washers and tried the bolt all by itself and I was able to now get the threads started. I then tried to reinstall the mounting braket, but w/o one of the washers and the bolt now threaded into the nut After tightening all the other fasteners I went back to the middle bracket location that was giving me trouble and I removed the bolt again and tried to install it again with the washer I removed earlier and I was successful in getting the bolt to thread with all the required hardware this time. I believe the cage holding the nut on this middle DS body-mount did partially fail and the nut was moving up with the bolt as I was trying to thread the bolt in. I believe the nut was partially trapped by the cage when it was sitting on the bottom of the mount and that if you could get the thread started with out lifting the nut too high it would work. once the thread was started I could thread the bolt onto the nut while keeping downward pressure on the bolt until I tightened up the slack. I really like the these Nasta step bars, they look great on the truck, which I'm very glad about, since I wouldn't want to try installing another set of step bars on this truck for obvious reasons. I would think that since this has been an issue for more than a year with these GMT900 trucks that GM would have taken steps to fix this problem. This is not rocket science for gosh sake, this is a simple caged nut. If the weld is failing you adjust the welder or use a different method to fix the nut in place.
  15. Te weather here in western NY has not been so good lately, so I have not been able to install my step bars yet, but I hope to get at it soon. I was able to get my splash guards installed on Friday, which I hope will help keep my truck a little cleaner. Hopefully I will not have any issues when I install my step bars, it really bothers me to have to worry about something breaking like this on a brand new truck. Thanks for the update.
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